whale392

Stance is everything. To make the wheels tuck under and give it a street look, try lowering it about 1/16th of an inch. Door cuts look good, but don't take my word for it! Welcome to the site....where at in Florida are you located. I am in Central Florida every now and then (mom and dad live in St.Cloud).

There is 'Smittys' down in Kettering, 'The Hobby Shop' just north of the Dayton mall, and I usually end up on Hilliard-Rome road in Columbus at the HobbyTown USA store as well as Grandview Hobbies up in the Grandview Heights area of Columbus. Dayton doesn't really have a lot going for it model-car wise, but I do what I can where I can when I can. I work aviation, and my time is fluid......never know what shift I will be on or what road trip I will be assigned to.

To strip chrome....Easy-Off (yellow can) will have it gone in less than 10 minutes! I have had it remove chrome in as little as 45 seconds at one time; it works. As to the metalizer tip, thanks for the alternative. Sounds like it could very well be worth it paint-price wise if it looks just as good.

Hey Chuck...with duals, the rumble, and the GT cladding; removing the 5.0 badges would hide nothing! Once again, very nice build. I see you chose the 'Porno Red' interior for the car...an interior color that is either love it or hate it and not too common AT ALL with the 'Wild Strawberry Metallic' exterior color option. A friend of mine has a car very similar to this model, only with the Gray/Black interior. The intake looks spot-on and you did a sweet job with the intake plaque placement and realistic look........be proud of it. If you feel like building another FOX, come on over to the FOX CBP thread going and join in. I for one would love to have you involved.

I agree with Mark here on all points; very nice build of a less than stellar kit and the 5.0 badges need some love. I own 4 of these cars right now (1:1s) and I can tell you the first place I look is the fenders after the initial look-over and listen. Now, this gets into a matter of personal opinion here, but the ride height of the kit is very....um....skyjacked shall we say. A 1/16" lowering brings the car back to regular ride height.

Door skins the same on the Mustang from 1979-93 as well as on the 83-88 T-Bird and the Lincoln MkVII huh? WRONG! Sorry to disappoint you ART, but owning 5 of the FOX Mustangs and modifying the rest of the above mentioned vehicles, I can tell you the windshields, door skins, and fenders are most certainly NOT all the same between them. Lets see; 1979-90 Mustang fenders (front) are very similar and will for the most part interchange. 1991-93 Mustang fenders have deeper front wheelwell openings and shorter front lips to accomodate the 16" Pony wheels. Now, you can bolt them back onto a 1979 with no problems. Door skins the same? Almost. Ford changed the drip moldings on the 87-93 cars, as well as the door window felts......this required a slightly modified skin. Can the bolt to any year from 1979-93 Mustang...yeah. Heck, I'll even throw the 1979-86 Capri in that too. Can Mustang doors bolt to and work on a 1983-88 T-Bird or the Lincoln MKVII....not a chance. And while we're at it, the LTD LX (83-85 I believe) had the Mustang V8 and the FOX chassis. But will those fenders swap to the Mustang/Bird/Lincoln.........NO. FOX underpinnings were fairly easily swapped back and forth (if you want to get technical, the 1994-2004 Mustang underpinnings will also bolt back into any 1978-1993 Fox, some with minor modding). I won't get too deep here as far as what will transfer, but you get my drift.

Slightly Eric, but it would NEVER be noticed under the car. I was going to repop the 1995 Tamiya CobraR pan for the 1/24th kits I have, but you just gave me the option for the 1/25th cars as well!!

That is why I said "As sleeper as a Viper can be anyway"! For years, my dad worked for a Dodge dealer, and the only way they could sell Vipers was to have a factory-trained Viper tech on hand. If dad ever quit, they would have had to train a new guy before they could sell the Viper line again. Being as he was the only guy in the area, we got all the Viper work (seperate training and certs for Viper and Viper Coupe). Imagine a 17-20 year old (and later a 26-30) getting to drive cars such as the Viper ACR and the Hennessey line. As one who also has driven them, they are most certainly not subtle. And yes, the wing does actually create the downforce needed for these cars; but I still think it would look killer in some not-so-flashy color and lose the wing. Also, the driver position and pedal offset (to clear the trans tunnel) can make for some awkward driving situations.

Being as I have FOX kits falling out of my hindquarters, I figured I could do a run of the pan just to have some spare units for future builds.....also goes for the timing cover/water pump area.

Let me know how that turns out Eric. I was thinking of trying my hand at resin by casting the Tamiya pan.

I may be late, but I will be there. I have to be; I am bringing your taillights! Work has been overtime all this week and I don"t see it letting up.

Do not fear the red plastic! My 83-84 Mustang GLX vert was red plastic and it is going together fairly well (then again, almost every part is a shade/hue of Black!) and the SVO I am also building (wayyyyyy back burner) is Red plastic (but will NOT be Red when built. Thanks for the updates on your builds guys; you help keep me motivated on these builds. And thanks for the compliments (I am no Romell; but I can hack up some nice plastic!).

I also seperated the headlight lenses into their 3 parts (ready for polishing and detail painting) , , Making the center armrest posable. I will end up making the hinge from plastic rod, but at the moment I have a pin stuck through it to test mobility. , . I also am modifying the 1995 CobraR K-Member to look more realistic and use with the FOX body: Before Driver side during the modifications. The GT sideskirts with the seperation detail added with a razor saw: , . I will post more later. Thanks for looking, hope you enjoy, and get to building!

Aluminum driveshaft time! I took a few measurements, then hacked the driveshaft from the rear end. I also went to my scrounge bin of dead FOX parts and cut another driveshaft from a dead housing (so that I would have two ends). I took the first end, opened the 'U'-joint detail up, shaved the pinion flange flat, and made the tranny yoke detail from scrap plastic. I did the same for the rear yoke, only I left the flange to mate to the rear end. I took some K&S aluminum tube, cut it to length, and two-part epoxied the yoke ends in. Then I painted the ends. I have yet to finish the paint as I will test fit it first, adjust as needed, then finish paint. , , , , , , .

I got the inner door panels cut free and will be scratchbuilding the door handles, armrests, door lock buttons, window cranks, mirror adjusters and backing plates, and other details of the inner door panels. Here I have the mock-up with the inner door panels cut free. I have a lot of work to do to make the inner cowl/door jambs/door hinges! Below are the inner door panels freed from the tub; I will be filling the upper corners in, making the door handles, the window cranks and mirror adjusters, and working on the door lock pins and map pocket delete panels. Passanger door panel. Drivers door panel. The tub is fair in detail, but still could use some love. I am adding/accentuating the rear seat detail to give it more accuracy. Opening the divide between the rear seat halves, the inner side plastics, and the carpet backs from the seat backs. Again, opening the seat divides from the upper seat back halves and the side interior plastics plus from the lower seat cushions.

All right; if anybody is still viewing this thread I have up-to-the-minute (well, 12,635 minutes ago anyway) update pics of the 1991GT conversion to the Cobra. As I mentioned before, the Monogram 302cid (5.0L) block and oil pan are margainal at best with the oil pan being COMPLETELY incorrect for the FOX chassis (it is a truck pan they cast the engine with.....showing the kit engines roots). How do you fix this. Well, either scratchbuild one or cut the old pan free and add the pan from the Tamiya 1994GT or 1995 CobraR kit; which I did here: Removed the old pan with a razor saw (tried to be careful, but failed) Had to reconstruct the pan rails on the block.......yes, I am fairly poor with a razor saw! The 1995 CobraR pan sitting next to the engine. Test fitting looks good so far, but I am re-constructing the timing cover/water pump detail on this engine as it is horrible to say the best for it. Just got a teaser Mock-up of the car sitting on the wheels before I cut the inner door panels free. The core support you see is from a 1967 Plymouth GTX failed build and will be getting cut up to make the FOX unit. Also, hood vent location is finalized and I have the vents just sitting in place to mark the hood for the cuts to come.

Lose the Gay (albiet correct for the car in question) wing, slap a subdued paint job on it and have one heck of a sleeper street car (as much as a Viper can be sleeper!).

Maybe working in aviation and having access to cool stuff has biased me, but here goes. I shoot the original (master) with either PTFE Teflon Spray lube or PTFE Mold release agent. Then, I mix up some PRC/Desoto B1/4 or B1/2 sealant (rubber type two-part) and lay that over the master....let the PRC dry (it is anerobic, so it will dry no matter what). The release will free the mold from the master easily. Then, depending on what I will do with the copy, I pick my casting agent. Most times I use spare sprue melted in liquid glue, but for something I will polish I use some A4 MetalSet (Aluminum impregnated resin two-part epoxy). I put just enough into the mold to barely fill it when the material hardens. Pop your copy from the mold, wrap some heavy tape around your finger, and using the tape to hold the part rub its back across some fine grit sandpaper. Paint/polish/BMF to your liking and use a tad bit of clear paint to 'glue' it to the model.

Easy-Off oven cleaner (yellow can). It takes dang near any paint/plating off in no time.

No worries; take your time (God knows I do!) and we'll be here when you are ready to show us what you've got going.

Michelle, The Charger is turning out quite nicely, and your work is appreciated here. I must apologize for the engine designation thing; unfortunately (or fortunately if you look at it from a product knowledge point of view) it is what happens on public forums. Knowledge is shared (sometimes without warrent or need) and others will learn from it.

I still have the issue the car appeared in. I went out and bought the very same kits the next week with intentions of building a similar ride. I just traded the kits to Modlbldr, but your Supra still remains one of (actually, THE) favorite Import builds of mine. It was awesome to see it again.

Yes, I am well aware of that Brett.......but the 383 RB was 1960 and it was a truck engine. If you want to go that route, the 350 (1958 only), 361, 383B, and the 400 were all 'B' engines; and the 383RB, 413, 426 (Hemi and wedge), and the 440 were all 'RB' engines. Then we have the truck engines that were considered industial (even if they were B/RB based). And if we REALLY want to get technical, the early 'A' (1951-56ish) Poly engines and the 1950s Hemis were all the same block (as heads would interchange). later Poly 'A' engines (318 and 325cid) could not accept Hemi heads. And to confuse the matter more, the 'LA' series (273, 318, 340, 360) were something else (considering that the Poly 318 and the wedge 273 and 318 were available side-by-side for several years just adds to the confusion). Yes Brett, I did grow up Mopar. I AM aware of the RB 383; but it has NO bearing on the above topic. Not meant to be an arrogant cuss here or sound like a know-it-all, but this is/was my LIFE.

As to the 383 Hi-Po getting the 440 intake, heads, and cam............2 out of 3 aint bad! Think about it real quick; how could the 383 wear a 440 intake? 383 was a 'B' block (b standing for 'Big'), the 440 was an 'RB' block (standing for 'Raised Big). Deck height differences made the 440 intake and 383 intakes different widths. Now cams and heads; no problem. You can go right down to your local Chrysler dealer parts dept and get the correct color in spray can, along with the Street Hemi Orange, Race Hemi Orange, Chrysler Engine Red, Sonoramic Commando Gold, and basic Black. How do I know.....dad worked for a dealer from 1986-2003, and has been exclusively Chrysler Products since 1960. Having two HemiCars and a myraid cornucopia of other big-block cars helps just a little as well (he is the original and only owner of his 66 Plymouth Belvedere2 Hemi/Auto car. He ordered it in December of 1965 and took delivery on March 3rd 1966). And factory literature (especially pre-production ads and posters/dealer brochures) are loaded with incorrect products. Take my 1965 Dodge Coronet500 for example. I have many of the ads and quite a few dealer promos/literature for it. Several photos show the CORONET500 fender badges mounted forward on the fenders while others show them mounted just behind the front wheelwell openings. BOTH of my 65s had the badge behind the fenderwell opening and one was an early build while the other was a mid-year build. Never completely trust factory literature. Anyway, nice build so far.

Looking good. You guys are keeping me motivated on my 2 (yes, I will post some more picture progress when my cameras memory has enough pics to warrent a download). Thanks for the updates!