Paul Payne

I display them in clear styrene storage boxes (and dust STILL gets inside!) on shelves in my model room. Active projects live on my workbench until finished. Some have lived there for years......

I am a foundry tooling engineer at Urick Foundry in Erie, PA. We make high quality ductile iron industrial castings for many different customers, including our parent company, Ridge Tool Co. I design master patterns on SolidEdge, cut them on a cnc machine, provide gating layouts for our pattern shop, and begin the quoting process by creating a preliminary layout including the number of castings on the pattern plate, and basic (uncalculated) gating.

sweet!!!!!

Bill, glad to see you working on this one again! It's been a favorite of mine since you first posted pix. I like lakesters and yours with the Offy (also a favorite) is great! I think your scratchbuilding is top notch and I am really looking forward to this one being finished!

Thanks, Biscuitbuilder, can you include pix? Also thanks, Frank, ditto from me!

Somewhere in a forum there was a reply (I think from Biscuitbuilder) about him modifying the Revell 1932 Ford chassis back to stock. I responded begging him to produce it in resin. Can't find the thread or the responses to save my life! Any help appreciated!

You can get a deuce lower but the sparks are annoying.......

Biscuitbuilder, please shoot some resin copies of that stock frame! Some of us would love a stock Deuce frame as a start point, instead of the modified kit chassis, also how about a stock rear spring and front axle?

Here's some photos of the metal bodied version- I added a driving light and outside rear view mirror, used the racing windscreens, and left off the bumpers. The car is right on in scale- these were small cars, as were the D Jag and XK-SS. I only wish they had included wire wheels as a build option- I haven't found any that fit the tires.

Do you remember the Monogram metal body series? One was a 1953 Corvette- with a metal body. Now let's just lead poor Jairus back to his workbench and let him continue doing great things for our hobby........

Yep, that's the one!

I think everyone can keep adding models as they think of them- here's a few more: Larry Boothe's 1932 Ford coupe and 1961 Thunderbird custom- I saw the Deuce at NNL East a few years back when Larry had it on the primer projects table. He was there at the time and I had a chance to talk with him about it and he very generously held parts for me to photograph and pointed out various details- a very modest and super guy who was a joy to share time with! I remember a blue and white 1932 or 1934 Ford coupe with an amazing number of working features- super miniature engineering- I just don't remember the builder's name- sorry! Pryor Passorino created a number of super detailed models, but I haven't seen anything of his in several years- hope he is still building....

A couple more: JBWELDA's street Cheetah and Offy powered lakes car (is it finished yet?) Bill Geary's D Jaguar Damncranky's rendition of Jairus's Frankie illustration Doug Whyte's 1953 Studebaker John Goschke's 1932 Ford roadster

How about Steve Catron and his scratchbuilt T bodied hot rod, and scratchbuilt belly tanker? The late Joe Cavorly did some incredible weathered vehicles. I second Augie Hiscano, his blue roadster (aka the XK-R, R stands for Rod) is still one of the greatest. There are so many more, I am sure other readers will contribute them.....

Forgot to ask- did the kit come with the grille and surround, or did you adapt the 1937 Ford pickup frnt end?

You have nice neighbors.......

Fantastic build-I love it! more pix, more pix, I'm still not satisfied......

Yep, I'm goin' to need a case of 'em........

True chrome plating relies on electrical current and a bath of metallic chemicals to deposit metal on metal. Triple chrome plating is actually 3 metals- a layer of copper, a layer of nickel (which provides the bright shine), and a layer of chromium, which does't tarnish and is very hard. Before chrome plating, they stopped at the nickel, but it required polishing. The chromium layer is only a few atoms thick, and I don't think the other metal layers are much thicker. Chrome parts in kits are chromed using aluminum powder and static electricity called vacuum metalizing. I don't know which process Chrome-Tech uses, does anyone know? By the way, Billy, I will be at NNL East, and I will be looking for chrome roadkill!

I have been building since 1959, when I was 6 years old. For me, subject will always rule my decision to buy a kit. If I am not interested in the car, no sale, period. I love Monogram's Black Widow, but if I built one today, I would put in the work to add a rear suspension and drivetrain, because I would enjoy the end result so much. I think Revell's 1932 Ford kits are great, but I would love a version with a stock chassis, suspension, drivetrain, and flathead v-8, because it would be easier to retro it into a classic 1940's hot rod. Again, what you put into a kit, even if it's just a starting point, and enjoying your end result, is what it's about for me. Certainly a modern kit should be buildable, be accurate, and have a significant parts count to do it justice, but we live in an imperfect world inhabited by imperfect people, and sometimes things just don't work out the way they should. I say, buy a subject you like, make it the way you want, and enjoy it. There really are a huge selection of kits out there, and everyone should be able to find something they like and have fun with it.

J. Sauber, I had a similar experience with a Miller Memorabilia 1956 Continental MKII, but never got nearly so far into it. First, the body was cast from a warped promo, chassis was a resin slab, pinholes everywhere, especially nearly unrepairable areas like the scripts, gauge nacelles, etc. I primed the body, but that's it- still sitting in the closet, still trying to yard sale it.

Great weathering and details, the aerodynamics might be a little squirrelly, and I'm glad that fire extinguisher is handy!

Bought a parts lot on Evil-Bay- Triumph chrome motocycle (Revell parts pak?), lots of old hot rod parts (some great tires, wishbones, steel wheels, wire wheels, front and rear axles, flathead parts, Ford hubcaps, headlights and a bunch of other stuff), and 10 concrete blocks (always useful in a display). The seller provided additional detail photos which confirmed my decision to bid. I have recently bought other parts lots, resin parts, photo etch parts, and scratch building supplies like styrene rod and strips, and brass rod. I plan on picking up the Revell Monogram 1932 Ford sedan if it really includes a flathead and other vintage hot rod goodies. Not buying many kits right now- concentrating on building what I have, and if I actually finish them all, I will have become immortal...........

What a treat! Very trick! Real eye candy! Absolutely fabulous build, and thanx for sharing all the in progress pix along the way! By the way, my favorite bed is the one with the welding tanks, wine bottle and cooler, etc., etc., etc.!!!! This is what modeling is all about- creativity, fun, artistic outlet, sharing, fun, did I say FUN?!?!?!!!!! I also like your figure- as well done as the truck!

I would say put a light stain on the Tiki and then use a darker wash to highlight all the great detail. That is a great little carving, a model in its own right! The rest of the model is also looking great, by the way!