ZTony8

Yeah,I guess i did.The show was well attended and the number of tables rented was up about 10% from last years spring show(The fall show has about 20% more tables than even this one does).My sales total was just under $300.I've done far worse in the past.

I noticed in the comparison pics that the "300" on the gas door and the "CHRYSLER" name above the side molding on the model slant the opposite way from the pic of the real car.OOPS. I can also see a slight difference in the curve of the side window line and it seems to have a bit of a chopped top.In spite of all that I still thimk it's a great kit.I saw one built up and it looks very impressive. Moebius should consider doing the newer cars-a '71/72 Riviera,a correct '65 GTO,and a 1970 Barracuda.And keep doing more 50s American iron.

Yesterday at the D.A.A.M. show I bought the Revell K.S. Pittman Willys and 2010 Camaro glue kit,a Trumpeter Ranchero,2 Gibson engine kits,a set of Pegasus Helas,a couple of magazines,and a resin '62 Olds Starfire(yes,it's an R&R,but I got it cheap enough to be worth the risk). On the flip side-I sold all my Monogram NASCAR double kits,an AMT Funny Hugger 1,and a few more of my duplicate kits so I didn't even have to touch my cash reserve to buy what I did.Some days things just do work out favorably..............

Best deals I ever got at a flea market were at the Street Rod Nationals in Kalamazoo,Mi.I picked up a Jo-Han '31 Caddy and a '34 Benz,an AMT '65 Riviera,a couple of Revell Grand Prixs,and couple other kits all for under $15(just missed an original issue '50 Ford from there when a guy grabbed it just before i could reach it.Darn).

I'm apparently the exception.Yes,I did "get" the reference in the cartoon.But I remember watching those episodes as a little boy and thinking back then that they weren't very funny.I thought Ralph was just loud and mean.

No,the show is open to the public.There will be plenty of members of all of the clubs in attendance.Some members will have tables,some will enter models in the contest,some will do both.Since I'm in the D.A.A.M. club(and Downriver and Eastside Modelers and United Detroit Model club) I'll be working the show and I'll have a table.My table for this show is expected to be about three tables to the right of the show entrance.I'll try to remember to wear a name badge of some sort.

I forget which specific show it was but there was a feature on the making of Jay Leno's '66 Toronado.The first scene you see is a Toronado being rolled off a flatbed into the shop and the car is '67 Toronado!I ran into a GM Performance Parts marketing yahoo at the Detroit Autorama(where the Leno car was on display) and mentioned this to him.He congratulated me on my sharp eye and said that the feature production was begun after the Leno car was already underway so they just fudged the shot and hoped nobody noticed it.. Then there was the Mickey Rooney movie in which he played a racer.This movie was made sometime in the 1940s.But in the last scene,which shows him being transported to hospital after a racing accident,the wide shot shows the ambulance careening around a corner-and it's a 1954 Cadillac!

If it's a newly released kit or one I've never had before,I'll open it,look at it,put the decals inside the instruction sheet,put the clear parts in a baggie if they're not in one already and then it goes into the stash.If it's another one of a kit that I've previously purchased it goes in the stash unopened.I know,I know,it's inconsistent.I should open them all or not open them all.

Question on the embossing powder- Is it applied over white glue or paint like the the usual flocking powder?

I have only used it once,over bare white plastic.

No pix but I once had in my possession a Trumpeter 1/6 scale Harley Davidson full dresser kit.The box art was duplicate of the concurrent Tamiya release but the kit did differ by having a base on which the completed model mounted.The base had a circuitry that provided engine noises when a button was pushed.I had to give the kit back to my now ex girlfriend's brother who had supposedly sent for the kit direct from Japan.

A couple of guys in the D.A.A.M. club have used it.I've seen the results and it appears to be excellent for interiors.

What ended up happening was that the 4 smaller front tires made for a higher top speed due to a reduced frontal area.The cornering speed wasn't increased much(if at all).Jody Scheckter wasn't keen on the concept but Patrick Depallier was gung-ho for it.Then Goodyear stopped development of the special sized small tires so the brave experiment went to history's scrap heap.

If you burn through an edge while polishing or color sanding you can touch up the area by spraying the color into a container and then use the smallest brush as possible to apply the paint.This works especially well for Tamiya paint(which also spot repairs excellently)and only slightly less well for Testors (non one coat) One Coat lacquers.After applying the color touch up,apply some clear in the same manner(if you've clear coated the finish in the first place)and you're done!

I'll go with "frugal". For example,I like Tamiya kits but I won't pay the ridiculous list prices for them.So I buy most of them when one local hobby shop puts their Tamiyas that don't sell well on 40% off clearance.Recently I ran across super deals at another hobby shop that bought a large private collection.Like other modelers I also prowl the toy shows looking for bargains.The foreign car models aren't in high demand here in metro Detroit so I often can find them at very reasonable prices at the shows.I also use 40% off coupons from the local Michael's and Hobby Lobby to buy supplies and kits. So far I've resisted any temptation to pay high dollar for old domestic kits.Perhaps because I remember when those kits were $1.50-$2.50 and because the quality and level of detail of modern kits is so much better I've not succumbed to the lure of ancient styrene.

I most often use Tamiya rattlecan lacquers.I have used Testors non one coat One Coat Lacquers and I like them ALMOST as much as Tamiya.They spray on a bit thicker but polish out as nicely as the Tamiya paints and come in colors that Tamiya doesn't offer.I do prefer the Testors "One Coat" clear over the Tamiya clear simply because it's not as risky to put over decals and not as prone to cracking the color coat if sprayed on at the incorrect time. Some day I'll get brave and try Duplicolor on a styrene kit.

One word of advice from personal experience-don't use the pads wet.The polishing cloth separates from the foam when soaked in water.This happened a good while back so maybe the glue has improved(?) Tony

I drive a 2008 HHR 2LT-2.4 engine,5 speed manual transmission.One of 250 made like that in that model year.Who says modern cars can't be rare?

James-the biggest is the Downriver Model Car Club.We meet in Dearborn at the Dearborn Ice Skating Center on the 3rd Friday of every month.Or closer by is the United Detroit Model Car Club which meets at the Hazel Park Library on 9 Mile by I-75 usually on the 2nd Monday of the month(though this can change because of room availability).There are couple of other clubs.Membership in the Detroit Area Auto Modelers is solely by invitation,and you'll need to be brought to the Eastside Modelers meetings and introduced. Tony Buglione

I'm in Eastpointe.Joined all the local clubs(Eastside Modelers,D.A.A.M.,Downriver Model Car Club,United Model Car Club).So the locals know me. Tony B.

There's a hobby shop here that marks down some kits about 40% every January so this past week I've picked up the Tamiya Ferrrari FXX,the revised version of the Tamiya Lotus 99T,a Tamiya Carina ED Autopista and a Fujimi Mini Cooper.

TS-45 also makes a fine base coat for other colors.I once shot some on a R-M '41 Willys Street Machine and then shot their TS-36 Fluorescent Red over it.I got a vivid pearl red/orange. I like their TS-65 pearl clear even more.Shoot it over any base and get a wonderful sparkling pearl.TS-65 also seems to block Tamiya TS-13's propensity to crack when applied over it's colors at the wrong time.I've put TS-13 over the TS-65 a few times and have never had any problems with cracking.

I'll submit the AMT '66 Olds Cutlass or the Lindbergh '67 Olds 442 for consideration for this build.

Yes,there ARE enough parts in the double kit to build 2 complete cars-one stock,one hot rod.

One of those "nailheads" is out of scale.Either the '62 version(and the one in the '66 Wildcat kit and the old '67 Riviera)is oversize or the one in the newer Riv kit is undersize.I put the newer version in a '66 Wildcat that I built and the engine looked lost in the engine bay.