charlie8575

The short answer is no, Tom. I could probably kit-bash a Revell 1962-64 Chevy frame to fit under it, but then I have to deal with getting all the other parts to fit like the engine, transmission and interior. I would also have to stretch the Xs to fit the Buick wheelbase and much longer overall length. Many years ago, I discovered that I am not a good plastic surgeon, and while I'll make small modifications to parts or perhaps swap pieces here and there, I do not do wholesale alterations well, and where especially right now, I work on a rather tight budget, I can't afford the extra kits or the cost if a serious error is made. Charlie Larkin

Greg, those are GORGEOUS. I'm still fiddling with mine to see what I can do to salvage it, but if it turns out to be a no-go, I'll be contacting you. The windows are indeed pretty well in there. I'll be re-soaking the body and trying again, as it did seem that there might be some hope as a little bit was coming loose. More updates very soon. Charlie Larkin

You might be able to dummy it up with the 400 out of the AMT 1966 4-4-2 or Lindberg 1967 4-4-2. They big/small Olds are very close in size, and as I'm thinking of it, I think the 400 in those cars may have actually been the small-block. Those are the only ones I can think of that might work. Charlie Larkin

Welcome, Clint. One of the first questions I want to ask is what do you plan on building? That will dictate a lot of the types of paint and finishes. If you like factory-fresh, the car needs to look as close as you can get it to that. Used car or a little shop-worn, or REALLY worn- well, it needs to look like that, and you guys that do armour have a major advantage in that department with your subjects. Do most of you primer the body before laying down your color(s)? Absolutely. I also like Plasti-Kote T-series sandable primer, which comes in grey, white and oxide red. All of them have their place, depending on the color you're doing. Do you need to smooth/sand the color coat before clearing? Personal preference. Generally, I do to make sure the surface is smooth. Try a polishing kit to level out everything, you might not even need clear. Do you sand/wet sand in between clear coats? I very rarely use clear; but when I do, if I need to sand, go no coarser than about 1500-2000 grit, and even that might be a bit rough. Anything else I need to watch out for? Try not to sand metallics, perals, micas, etc. That can "muddy them" and really scramble the metalflake. If you need to,I can guarantee you'll be clear-coating it. Some guys I know clear, sand that, and then clear again. With regard to paint, MCW and ScaleFinishes both make OE-type paint. MCW does lacquer and is a good product. ScaleFinishes is enamel, and it also a good product. The lacquer will dry much quicker, though. As noted above, humidity with lacquer and enamel is the enemy. I use lacquers, enamels and acrylics. It depends on what color I need, what I have on-hand and what I'm looking for from the paint application. I have heard of acrylics used for the bodies and plan to try it sometime, but lacquer and enamel are far, far more common. Charlie Larkin

Okay, I'm officially impressed. VERY nice job on that. Charlie Larkin

I don't about going QUITE that far, but I agree- that poor car needs to be fixed- if for no other reason, we'll finally have a decent Polyhead. Charlie Larkin

Amazing. And what a story behind it, too. Charlie Larkin

I've really developed a desire for a full-size 1965-78 Ford over the last couple of years (in 1:1), and this isn't helping any. Charlie Larkin

Excellent work, Ron. A very nice rendition of a historically-important car. Charlie Larkin

I think the hood is awesome. Very nice work, young lady and Dad. I tried so hard when I taught to get across that building stuff is fun. Y'know- I think an issue of MCM should be dedicated to youth builders and parent/kid projects. I'd even be willing to contribute part of commentary or a guest editorial as a teacher and someone still involved to a degree in educational activities. Charlie Larkin

That is the most important thing of all. Charlie Larkin

YES! I love Crosleys! Very unusual considering almost I've ever driven are GM B/C-bodies. That would be perfect. No licensing hassles, and so small, I don't think you'd barely have plastic equal to a body-shell of a normal car. There's no way they could justify more than say, $20 for that based on materials and lack of legal cow cookies. Just like the real thing- economical as real cars, economical as models. Charlie Larkin I'm not settling; I want both and a Buick, please. Charlie Larkin

I only met Norm once briefly at NNL, and asked some questions about his parts to make the Revell '32 Fords a little more stock. Excellent, detailed answer, some beautiful products, and absolutely a nice guy. I hope someday I'll have a little extra to order up something from him, he not only earned my business, he deserves my business. Charlie Larkin

Hmmm....now there's an idea. I have a glue-bombish (original builder did a really nice job on the interior, so I may leave that alone) AMX, but a new one with new tooling has a lot of appeal. Charlie Larkin

Agreed, and that someone will cast it so I don't have to buy a kit I sincerely have no interest in- I like my cars stock. Charlie Larkin

So far, so good, Doug. Charlie Larkin

Interesting, Tom. Which company put that on their sheets? Charlie Larkin

I'd....take just about anything in this post. I'd love to see a 1953-55 Kaiser Manhattan, I always thought those were nice-looking cars. I'd like a 1950 Buick- the Special shares the under-pinnings with the Olds 88, just add bodywork, interior and a Straight 8/DynaFlow. The Special Sedanette is especially nice-looking, I think. Really wanna wow 'em? Go ahead, do a 1950-53 Buick Estate Wagon. I dare anyone to do it. I WILL buy a case. Engine/transmission wise, I'd also like to see a GOOD poly-head Chrysler (early non-Hemi V8- 241, 260, 277, 301, 303, 313, 318) with a matching TorqueFlite and a correct selection of the other early automatics. Charlie Larkin

The Objet printers (and a couple others) will produce well-nigh injection-molded quality parts. I mean, hey, they small one is thirty grand, but, whatever... Seriously, another few years and this is going to be something beyond incredible. Once the details and materials are completely sorted, we could have something truly marvelous. Charlie Larkin

J&M Machine, Southborough, Ma., Neil. The Gulbankians can rebuild/repair/replace almost anything. Charlie Larkin

I might take mine with the interior and trim and stick it on the chassis/engine/etc. of the other Revell '66 I have; I read here several years ago that by doing so, it actually becomes a very nice model. You did a good job with making that a presentable end-product, Carl. Charlie Larkin

Very nice work on the chassis plate, Nick. Charlie Larkin

Yeah, she's pretty swoopy.... Nice car, too. Charlie Larkin

I love how you manage to angle and set your depth-of-field so that everything actually looks like real people/cars/buildings. Very nice job on this, Sam. Charlie Larkin

You're off to a good start, Chris. As you continue to work, it'll get easier and the results will improve. We'll still look forward to what you do with this project and support you as much as needed. Charlie Larkin