charlie8575

I think this is a very important, valid point that we all seem to forget from time to time. Charlie Larkin

Scale Equipment, Ltd. SMBC, Detail Master and similar places are good places to start. Charlie Larkin

Well, a couple of weeks ago, I got around to foiling. I used the Micro-Scale adhesive on kitchen foil. Overall, I'm quite pleased with it, and recommend anyone interested to try it. This is my first attempt at foiling, so don't be too mean. I do think this stuff might be a bit thick for more delicate moldings. I'm going to try BMF again. If you're wondering, my dad's normal digital camera vanished, so I had to use the webcam I have to take the pictures. Ignore the ugly guy. Charlie Larkin

One other trick you can use to help dry enamels is a hair dryer set on low and about 8-10" away from a model. The heat helps speed the catalyst. Many enamels have gone down the drain due to a large number of factors, including lack of development and mandated reforumulation courtesy of the enviro-Nazis. I always used to get decent paintjobs from Testors Pla Sprays until the last couple of cans of flat black I bought (which I use for chassis painting.) It seems the paint doesn't want to stick, even when primed. Perhaps a bad can? I'm not sure. Other things that do help are heating the can prior to use in some warm water until it's just barely too warm to handle comfortably. That builds lots of pressure in the can, and helps the paint come out more efficiently and the pressure helps the paint mix better when shaken due to the higher can pressures. You also get more out of the can. Charlie Larkin

At least around here, they aren't, Christian. Not much is; salt on roads in the winter, salt air for coastal cars, and the ruthless hand of time conspire to take too many off the road. Hearses in general aren't that plentiful in the U.S. A good year for a particular model is a buildout that goes over a couple hundred in a model year. The production numbers for commercial chassis will bear this out. Charlie Larkin

Both of you have summed up my thoughts so well I shan't repeat what has already been said. Charlie Larkin

Kevin, For the base, I'd suggest using 1/4" lauan plywood (ferquently sold as "Phillipine Mahogany,") it's not heavy at all, fairly sturdy and won't warp too badly. If you want to make sure it's a little more rigid, take some thin, narrow wood and frame the perimeter of the base (something like 1/2 x 1" strapping would be perfect for this.) For building walls, foamcore is good, or the solid structural insulation foam, like used under vinyl siding would be acceptable. Don't use the material with the foil on it, the composition of the foam is incorrect. It's also far too thick. The blue material (made by Dow) or pink (Owens-Corning) are both good, and can be obtained in 1/2" thickness, which is believable for 1/25 walls, or a nudge over a foot. Window and door frames can be replicated with strip plastic. Look around the trim on your own house to get an idea of how it's shaped. Philbass did a fantatic show-and-tell on how to do brick (and it could transfer to stone or concrete block without too many differences.) Check it out here. Restoratio Claps can simulated with pieces of balsa or basswood glued to the foam. Board and batten siding can be simulated with flat planks and thin square sticks at the joints for the battens. Windows can be made with thin clear plastic, with strips glued on it to simulate the frames and muntin bars (the bars that divide the glass into individual lights.) Good luck with it. Charlie Larkin

Nice save, Brian. I like the idea proposed of a custom van. I could see a fogged blue with silver scheme and some of those big heavily-tinted windows in the side. I think that'd look pretty good and be a good save for this one. Or just a plain old panel van for a business; something you don't see too much in modeling. Charlie Larkin

I was going to suggest bleach too, but I wasn't sure how resin would react. I know it's okay for styrene and work really well. The one thing I do know is that oven cleaner is safe for just about any resin, so I'd definitely give it a shot. Charlie Larkin

I don't think I've seen this one before Brian. Nice work with it. Yellow/black/black is a nice combination. Charlie Larkin

Some Humbrol Coal Black and Satin White to do a white interior I'm planning for an upcoming model. I actually grabbed it last weekend, but never got around to posting it. I keep hearing nice things about Humbrol paint, I'm looking forward to trying it. Charlie Larkin

For easy-to-get, The Modelhaus is probably the best bet. Other good possible sources are Scale Equipment, Ltd., and MCW Automotive Finishes. Charlie Larkin

Second the motion. I don't mind if I have to buy an easily obtained current/recent-production kit, but having to find another model for well...most of it, especially one that's a bit tough to find and expensive, is something I'd have a real hard time justifying. Charlie Larkin

Nice job. I love French Blue, it looks so good on so many things. Charlie Larkin

That looks really good! I was wondering what you'd do for colors. I like it. Looks like a real late '70s emergency vehicle, that's for sure. Charlie Larkin

This is wonderful news. I hope she continues to improve. Charlie Larkin

I like it, very nice overall execution. Charlie Larkin

I like the fogged billboards. Very nice overall execution. Charlie Larkin

In school, we see the same thing, too. There are no winners or losers. Everyone has to feel good and everyone gets a trophy. Tra-la-la-la...everyone's happy and their precious little psyches aren't hurt. Oh give me a break. I would never, ever condone rudeness, confrontational wording or speaking down to someone who put some degree of effort into doing something. There's never any reason to be mean. But, if posted, as has been said, you should be ready to hear the good, bad and the ugly. If someone does display their first model, use some tact. Many of these people do actually seem to want to know what to do better. Sometimes, people want ideas or feedback on new things they've tried. Give it to them. I'm on the verge of completing the first model I've actually completely finished in a little over twenty years. This is also my first attempt at foiling. I know it's not a great job, but I'm still on the learning curve and I'm very happy with how well it's come out otherwise. I think a lot of it comes down to the tone and intent of the responder. That's as important as what's said and who it's being said too. Charlie Larkin

Nice job. Looks a little too clean for a plow-truck though, at least around here, unless it's used for a little more than plowing. Charlie Larkin

Great job. Those heads look fantastic. Charlie Larkin

Uhh....what do we use for the chassis/wheels/tires? Any suggestions for an AMC six? If I can find some of the other pieces, I'd definitely get one. That' stock '66 Nova wagon, however, definitely has my attention. Charlie Larkin

I had to go to the closing of my condo with my pink slip. I couldn't weasel out of the sale. Sold it 23 months later at a $30,000 loss. Buying quasi-employed or unemployed is tough. I hope your work situation improves and you enjoy your new house. Charlie Larkin

:lol: *almost falling off the couch doubled-over in laughter.* You guys both do nice work. I like the idea of using paper clips for all that stuff. Charlie Larkin

Nice work on the ramp and frame. Charlie Larkin