Dr. Cranky

Ron, that works. Actually that's how many of us started using washes back when . . . you can also do it with fine oil paints and some odorless turpentine. The trick is to build up the layers. No stress, and if you don't like how it looks, you can remove it. Oh, you know we'll do more of these types of vehicles. You bet. They are a heck of a lot of fun.

Jim, the same thing happened to me at first. Here are the numbers you need. AK-075 this is the dark wash for Nato vehicles AK-066 is the brown wash. Rob, that's coming up . . . stay tuned in . . .

Lenny, good question. You know I decided since I was going to use BMF that I would have the front and back match. But I think you are right, these go in black. Thank you, Ira. More coming up.

I had the chance to buy my father's 1965 Dodge Dart back from a friend (who had bought it from my father) but didn't do it, and I regret it to this day. It was the car I drove to high school when I first started driving. I loved that car, but it got away. Who know what happened to it. It stayed in California, and I moved to the East Coast.

A few more pics . . . http://images45.fotki.com/v1451/photos/4/684514/10956007/IMG_0026-vi.jpg[/iimg]

We are working on the dashboard and a few other details before final assembly . . . BMF took about 30 minutes to apply . . . and whenever I have to apply BMF, well, I feel a bit on edge . . . A bit of a warning about this kit. The front windshield is tough to set right in. My advice is test fit in the raw styrene, and the make allowances for primer and paint. I know I am going to build a few more of these, so I hope it was an anomalie of just this first kit.

And finally here it is sitting pretty in the rolling chassis . . .

Here are a few more shots:

All right you rat fiends and Crankyheads, here's a bit more progress. I think this one is almost around the corner. No frills, no chills . . . Here's the engine comparison between new (in the background) and "washed" (in the foreground.) Remember that the wash can be manipulated so you choose how much or how little you want on there. You can go ALL OUT GUNK if you wanted by applying several coats of the wash.

Jim, yes, you can use them for that purpose. It can go over both flat and gloss paint. I think over gloss paint it will knock off a bit of the shine, but that's exactly the look I would imagine "driven" looks like. You can get it by contacting Iain Hamilton at AK-INTERACTIVE USA. Here's the link: http://www.ak-interactive-usa.com/

MIKE, I think that would be such a great idea to build a TOOTHLESS ZOMBIE VEHICLE dealership, showroom. It would have slogans like, GET YOUR CAR OF THE FUTURE HERE . . . BEFORE WE RUN OUT OF GAS! LOL.

Thank you Samuel and Marcus . . . I should be making more progress today.

Rylan, both are magnificent builds. Love them both. You've done a great job, and I hope you are not keeping your TZH addiction down to just two. I copied the pictures for the next TZH VIDEO UPDATE. Thank you. Best, DC

Outstanding. You have taken a great kit and really made it stand out through your weathering. That's what modeling is all about.

I just finished building the one that comes in the 1940 Ford (Revell kit) and it's very nice as well.

That's crying out for someone to replicate it in scale. Go, Most, Go!

I love this model. The color is really striking, and that engine is a monster. Nice.

Lordy some great examples and inspiration for builds.

The difference is that by using these enamel (or oil) washes, you can manipulate the effect. Acrylic washes stay put once they dry. And they tend to leave residue and rings, etc . . . These are smooth, and you can change them or wipe them off if you don't like the effect.

I'm fried already tonight, but tomorrow there will be more progress. Everything is drying up nicely over night. LOL.

BEAUTIFUL model.

Very cool. Nice work on the tarp too.

Wonderful model. Thanks for sharing it.

I tell you when a car is flawless and beautiful, it is hard not to fall in love with it.