Carmak

I will reiterate what Alan said - Networking! I was a 60's car nut growing that hit modeling age in the mid-late 70's. I used paper route money to buy built/box of junkers 60's vintage models at garage sales and flea markets in my relatively small Iowa city. I did get the occasional unbuilt kit and promo but they were the exceptions. I would then rebuild/restore them. This background helps me when hunting vintage models as I prefer built/junker models over MIB kits (I also prefer the much lower cost). Community networking: I find roughly 50-100 50's-70's vintage models (mostly built) a year locally at very reasonable prices. Almost everyone I talk with knows I am looking for old models. When the people I talk to are also looking for things I keep my eyes open and pay it forward. For example, I know someone into mid-century lamps. I have sent a few lamps their way and they have sent some vintage models my way. I am also willing to literally work to get vintage models. Last year I spent hours helping a friend clean out a house. I spent about 15 hrs. total helping to empty the house with 8 hrs. of that in a tiny attic to get 35 models all 64 and earlier (see pictures below including a pic of the attic gap I had to get through to get the models). Model collector networking: Many collectors rarely sell but they will trade. I don't buy vintage models specifically to trade but when I get a collection I will often trade with what I don't want or need. Honestly the hardest part is finding other local collectors. I have collector friends that are local and online. It has taken years to develop trusting friendships with other collectors but it is worth it. Lastly join a local model club if possible and go to local swap meets. May areas do not have a local model car club but they do have a local IPMS chapter. The IPMS is a club for all scale model builders so there is typically a mix of model car, airplane, military, ship, figures and gundam builders. I belong to two IPMS chapters and one kinda local model car club. I hope this helps.

I also just started restoring a 65 Imperial rebuilder. Since I plan to retain the original metal axles I am going to use the original block and trans (nasty sink marks in the trans pan). I am using the heads, intake, manifolds, timing cover and other details from a Revell 69 Charger 440 on the original Imperial block (I had to cut off the original Imperial block's timing cover). Interesting that the Imperial had the fuel pump and something that was meant to resemble an oil filter molded to the block.

I like the thought of using the engine as a structural member of the chassis. Strategically cut a funny car chassis in half near the front, attach the rear section of the chassis to a rear engine plate and attach the front section of the chassis to a front engine plate. Whatever you decide to do please post pictures.

Unlike the other annual bodies used for the AWB kits the Edsel wheel openings were not changed. I forgot about the taillights and hood ornament hole being filled but those types of modifications are very subtle. I feel my point that the modern Edsel body/hood could be used to make a fairly close replica of the Unreal Edsel is still valid.

A common practice in injection molding is to install runner blocks or runner switch to allow part of a mold to be shut off. If Round2 were to look into this option, they could use or add runner blocks or switches so that only the body and hood are molded and there would be no waste. There would be elevated cost involved in running the fairly large Edsel mold only to produce a body and hood as a mold of this size requires a large molding press. The Unreal Edsel did not have any Edsel chrome or glass.

There is one legit benefit to 4 wheel steering that has not been discussed. If you pull a trailer a tag along style hitch, 4 wheel steering almost eliminates "cracking the whip" during a highway speed quick lane change.

If someone wanted to replicate this kit it would not be terribly difficult. The original kit was the unaltered 58 Edsel annual body, the 65 Chevelle AWB chassis/engine/interior tub, cruiser skirts and an outhouse door. Put a modern tooling 58 Edsel body on the cloned 65 Chevelle AWB chassis/engine/interior tub, find some parts box or E-bay cruiser skirts and make a real balsa wood outhouse door. TA DA - you have an Unreal Edsel! Possibly Round2 could do what I describe above for us in a single kit and tool up some cruiser skirts and an outhouse door? I personally would rather see Round2 invest in other kits that are not so easily replicated.

"a promo style chassis would not work for lowrider builds which would be a natural for this car." - Poor choice of words on my part. The promo style chassis limits the type of lowrider build. A proper height tripod stance is "challenging" with a promo style chassis I really like the vinyl top and side moldings you added. I have 67(annual), "for 68", 69 & 70 for AMT and 68, 69, 72, 73, 74, 75 & 76 for MPC. I was already thinking a couple of them would get vinyl tops, your vinyl tops make that an easier decision. "and a gratuitous pic of a 68"

The AMT 70 Impala tooling was created in late 69 by modifying the AMT 69 Impala tooling. The 69 Body fits perfectly on the 70 interior and chassis. There was no AMT 68 Impala (the "For 68" AMT 68 Impala is a full custom 67 Impala) so there is in no AMT 68 Impala body to clone from. The only stock 68 Impala was made by MPC. Also as noted by other the 68 Interior is quite different from the 70 so a new interior would be needed. I discussed why I don't think Round2 will use the 67 Impala. Since I made my post I was thinking about how they tooled up a 4dr HT body for the 67 so they might know enough about the 67 mold that they will expand it to a 68.

69 Impala: An AMT 69 impala would be the most reasonable between the 68 and 69. A scan copy of the original AMT 69 body, hood, bumpers and valance would fit on the existing AMT 70 Impala parts like a glove. The dash and seats are essentially identical for 69 and 70. This would be similar to what was done to bring back the 64 Cutlass. I just got a nice AMT 69 Impala rebuilder after looking for years so I am sure the 69 Impala will be announced soon 68 Impala: Hypothetically a new 68 Impala body, hood, bumpers and valance could be created for the 90's era 67 Impala kit, but Round2 has become resistant to make changes to 90's era tooling based on trouble they have had in the past. A promo clone kit would be more likely option, but this also presents a challenge as a promo style chassis would not work for lowrider builds which would be a natural for this car.

Has a Chestnut 63 Country Sedan a number of years ago. It was an original pint car except for that shaggy rear qtr. that was repainted after a light bender when the car was fairly new. The original owner custom ordered the car as Chestnut was not a standard production color on wagons in 63.

You are correct.....BUT..... there is another car(s) out there called a Cobra so calling it a Torino Cobra or a Fairlane Cobra is kina of a natural clarifier.

It has not been available since the late 60’s release. It is assumed that the mold was scraped in the early 70’s during a purge. I say assumed as there are occasionally molds that were assumed to be scrapped that actually survived. If you are looking for a 62 an option is a lesser quality promo. I got one at a swap meet a few years back for $15 with plans to rebuild it as a curbside kit.

I agree with others. If you want a Taladega build the Monogram kit. The AMT Torino Cobra kit is a typical late 60’s style AMT kit with a promo style chassis and interior tub. It was “restored” in the 80’s after being made into a modified stocker in the 70’s. IIRC the original issues (68/69) were Torino GT’s. The restoration was okay (the trim details are not as crisp as the originals). The grille is the worst part of the resto. Do lots of mockups and you will be fine. 😊

I really like your gasser build and your funny car project! I really like details on the gasser such as the vintage redlines on the front. Nice! Looking forward to seeing the completed funny car at a club meeting.

This is a really interesting and well done build! I daily drove a 72 Valiant with the leaning tower of power back in my youth. It might be too late, but this kit has an issue many AMT kits designed in this era have, the wheel stick out too far and they sit a little nose up. The front to rear stager (the front track is wider than the rear track) is correct but both of the tracks are too wide. Last year I completed an AMT 67 Mustang which has this same issue. I significantly narrowed the front and rear track and slightly lowered the front stance to get the tires to sit inside the wheel openings. The tires are vintage mid 60's MPC units.

Nice looking rig. Really like the V-6 and the line for the hydraulic clutch.

Many Round2 kits were originally released on the first golden era of model kits (late 50’s-mid 70’s). Over the years some of these kit have been modified many time with small change and/or major changes. The kit you have started out is a 70 Chevelle in 1970, then a 71 in 1971 and 72 in 1972. Thru the rest of the 70’s it was sold as the Red Alert Chevelle and in the 80’s it was sold as a 72 Street Machine. In 94 it was changed back into a 70 Chevelle, in 02 it was modified so the mold could be easily changed back and forth from a 72 into a 70 and back, the model kit could not be changed back and forth, the mold could be change so the same mold could make two different versions. You have this version of the 72. Lastly the 70 version of this kit was revised this last year to make it more accurate. I don’t know if this is the end of the 72 or not. Extra parts from previous versions are pretty common on a model that dates back to 1970 and has been changed a half a dozen times.

Below are pictures of the AMT 71 Chevelle (red) and the MPC 71 Chevelle (green). The AMT is correct and the MPC is really not correct. The MPC does have nice separate grille inserts.

Mr. Mike, Here are some pics I took a while back to detail the differences between the 71 and 72. The 71 and 72 use the same fender extension, the 72 grille and headlight bezels are positioned further forward than the 71 grille and headlight bezels. If you separate the grille and headlight bezels from the bumper and slide it back under the hood it will help to look more like a 71. Cool project. Looking forward to your progress.

I have also noticed more 60 F-100 builds than 63 F100 builds. I have three thoughts: * With the separate bed the 60 allows more flexibility with builds. * The 60 is the only version of the 57-60 F100 generation available. Moebius got to the market first with their 65 & 66's to represent the 61-66 F100 generation. * The 60 is available at Hobby Lobby

My first car about 40 years ago was a 62 T-bird. I have owned a half dozen drivers and a couple dozen parts car 61-66 T-birds. I was daily driving a 63 when I dated my wife (35 years ago). I think the biggest thing holding them back value wise is that they just don't work well with the performance or sporty performance look. You can put mags on a 63 Rambler 4dr and get a sporty performance look. T-birds really look better as luxo sleds. T-birds also have some quirky mechanical and design issues (some are Ford things, and some are T-bird unique). My favorite issues include: hydraulic wipers, exhaust manifold leaks, exhaust manifolds very very close to the inner fenders, due to packaging engine swaps more challenging, crappy Ford wiring bullet connectors, dash that must pealed like an onion rather than removed as a unit, very heavy for it's size, sections of galvanized exterior steel that resist being painted, no room for dual reservoir master cylinder, shackle mounts that really rust, and lastly you need to know the exact day your car was built since Ford loved changing things mid-year. I have a loft full of T-bird buckets and back seats (the wrap around ones) but currently no drivers.

A couple years ago I found a really nice lightly started 68 Coronet convertible and then days later the new 68 Coronet convertible was announced. I just found a really nice lightly started 67 Galaxie so I expect the new 67 Galaxie to be announced any day If anybody has the extra 67/68 suspension bits from the current 69 Galaxie kit they would like to part with please let me know.

An advantage to the long bed trucks is the ability to easily make commercial versions (utility box, tow trucks, campers and such). If you have been to a 1:1 car show recently you will notice the increased interest in these types of trucks (specifically utility boxes) in the last few years.

12" on center I joists with 1x4s attached to the bottoms of the I-joists. May of the kits fit snug in between the joists. Some Revell and Monogram boxes are just a little oversize and don't fit.