Alyn

Fantastic! What an attention grabber. I scolled to the second picture (with the radiator shell) and bam! It hits you right in the eye balls. Great job on every aspect of the build including staying true to Jairus' original concept. You are truly the Metal Master.

Using a jewelers or rifle file, I bevel the edge to a 45° angle. This leaves two edges that can then be filed down, leaving four, At that point, round over all the edges to a 1/4 round profile. Use sandpaper as mentioned to smooth out the final shape and clean up scratches. Follow up with the Dupont #7 polish. Here's the same trick using regular .015" wall aluminum tubing for guage bezels.

Thank you both very much for your compliments and interest. Shane, everytime I see the TxRat sig line, I am reminded of your Pure Hell AA/FA (not that you haven't done some really cool stuff since). As I followed that build, my main thought was "this guy thinks like me". You seem to take pride in creating the details yourself, as do I. The fun is in the challenge. One of these days when I build a nice set of brake shoes...

As a fan of British racing cars, I like your style, Mr Perez. I have a 1:1 TR7 in my garage that I will someday create in scale as a Group 44 TR8. (so many cars, so little time ) Anxious to see more... P.S. The Fairmont looks familiar. That would certainly be the one to cast in resin if you haven't already. Over the course of time, I have seen numerous posts regarding Fairmont bodies and where one could be obtained. Several referenses have been made to a mysterious scratch built version which I suspect was yours.That is a body that would probably appeal to a wider audience of buyers.

They gotta love every one of us builders. After all, we buy far more of their kits than we'll every have time to put together. My parts stash is actually growing pretty fast. Since I make my own, I have lots of left overs. This one's very close to the end. All I have left is steering components; tie-rods, drag link and pitman arm. Then some valve stems (should have done them long ago), paint touch up and weathering and she'll be a photo shoot away from "under glass".

Again, thanks for all your good words. Some of these comments are down right humbling. Shows what a great site this is. MCM, in my opinion is like the watering hole of automotive model building. There's plenty of model related sites out there on the internet. Most frequented by some impressive, if not down right awesome builders. But most of them that want to know wants going on, who's doing what, or just to be part of a broader community will show up here. My 29 is getting really close to the finish line. Here's some of the last of the parts to get done. I've mentioned before that the cap off of a ball-point or other type of pen can be used to scratch build headlight buckets. Once I found one the shape I liked, I poured a silicone mold to make more in the future. These are purposely left long to use as is, or you can cut it down to various lengths to suit the circumstances. To finish off the headlight, I cut a slice of small diameter, heavy wall aluminum tubing for the trim ring. This tubing has a .030" wall thickness whereas the usual tubing is .015" It's not too difficult to round over the edge of the tubing to the proper shape. Just like polishing a paint job, these are sanded with progressively finer grits to smooth out the scratches. Then Dupont #7 polishing compound provides the final shine. I scrounge through my parts box for a clear lense that will fit inside the tubing and cover it in clear parts glue to hold it it place. Tin foil is glued behind the lense to give the appearance of a reflector. This is right after the glue is poured. Of course it clears up as it dries. Here's the final result. You can also see one of the friction shocks mounted just bolow the headlight. ... and here's a shot of the coolant tubes in their final form before gluing them to the engine and radiator. The hose clamps are BMF. I brush the hose area with Tamiya acrylic clear to keep the foil from peeling off.

You two need to go into the car biz Killer design Killer build

40 Ford coupe 99 Dodge Ram VTS with 32 Fenders and scratch built frame 32 Ford roadster/Bonneville salt flats special

Ain't that the truth. Final assembly is scary! part that use to fit somehow don't fit anymore. Paint gets chipped, scratched and fowled up with glue joints that didn't quite go right. I avoid final assembly like the plague, but it's a necessary evil. Your deuce turned out awesome. I think it's one of your best. Just the right amount of chrome, and the Hemi was the perfect choice for a power plant. Bring on the next one!

An Xacto razor saw works well. I use one in combination with a miter box for aluminum, brass and plastic. It makes nice, straight cuts thru both tube and rod of various shapes, and I've never had a problem with tube collapsing. For really small diameter tube, under 1/16", the Xacto knife works well.

X 2 I've been thinking the same thing to myself on your last several builds. They are just getting cooler and cooler. This one has that nice "show rod" look about it.

Great work, Steve. You really know how to translate your ideas into reality. This is well on it's way to becoming the best version of the new generation Camaro yet. That's a title I'm sure you'll own for quite a while.

I believe Al Teagues record was with a blower, not normally aspirated.That record was knocked down last year or the year before, if my memory is intact. Here's a linke to a write up on the HAMB: http://www.jalopyjournal.com/?p=9978 The doppler effect as a streamliner at seed goes by gives me goosebumps. At ~400 MPH the sound shift plus the sound of a big motor at high rev's is dramatic.

45 Years ago, the Summers brothers set the world land speed record for normally aspirated, piston engine, wheel driven cars at 409 MPH. The car that did it was the famous Goldenrod; a slender 4-wheel drive streamliner powered by 4 Chrysler Hemi's. A friend of my dad, Terry Nish and his son Mike in their Royal Purple 998 streamliner, have been chasing this record for years, as have many others. I was lucky enough to go out to the salt in 2008 for the Top Speed Shootout to watch their attempt at the record, Unfortunately they came up short, running a best of 386 and eventually spitting an exhaust valve out the headers of their 800+ cubic inch Aries big block Chevy. This week, they are on the salt again for the 2010 Top speed Shootout as are a handful of the fastest streamliners and unlimited motorcycles. The 45 year old record was finally beat, not by the Nish family, but by another streamliner, The Spirit of Rett driven by Charles Nearburg which ran a two way average of 414 MPH! As a follow up, Mike Nish ran over 400 in the Royal Purple streamliner for the first time with an exit speed on one of his runs over 412 MPH. Unlike the Goldenrod, both of these current cars are powered by a single engine with 2-wheel drive which makes there speeds all the more impressive .With only 12 piston engine, wheel driven cars in history running over 400, there were four cars at this years Top Speed Shootout running in the 400 range. Talk about fast company. Congradulations to Charles Nearburg for taking such a long-standing record.

I think it looks great. I liked the progress shots in your WIP, but seeing it complete, I think it jumped up another notch or two. My dads was also green with some blue peeking through until he got a decent paint job. I'd add the center bar to the windshield. As a junker, it's not likely that the owner would go to the trouble of putting in a one-piece windshield. The black steelies and thin whitewalls fit the part well.

Bare Metal Foil comes in a gold version. That might take you somewhere. I'd consider painting some scrap chrome with some Tamiya clear yellow to see how that looked, or paint the part silver and then follow up with the clear yellow. Afterwards, shoot some ruddy brown/red primer from a distance to get some small specks of paint on the surface. Do it just right and it will look like the metal is pitting. What ever you end up doing, post up so we can see how it works out.

So, Raul, are you going to be selling tires now? This series of cars you've been doing is pretty cool for sure. Looks like this one is already levitating. Oh, nevermind, it's sitting on a glue bottle... How would a bubble top look on this thing, or maybe a pair of steerable thrusters sticking out the rear??? Cool concept coming together nicely as your's always do.

I think I'm the only one on the planet that has never really liked the look of this car; mainly the front end. But, I like everything you build so I'm looking forward to see what you do with this one. Already, after seeing the pictures with the paint polished up so nice, it's starting to grow on me. Great paint job (again!). BTW, the wheels look awesome.

This bike is outragous. It surely cements your position as king of the two wheelers. Love your skill with the metalizers too. This motor, like the others you have done, looks like it' would start up at the turn of a key.

Thanks for the good words, gentlemen. While I wouldn't equate model building to work, I can tell you that I do love doing it, as I'm sure most all of you do as well. Jairus, thanks for the comments and tips. Floquil paint is great stuff. I've shot some Testors dull coat on most of the detail and sub assembly parts on this build. You can see the lack of gloss on the red frame rails in the mock-up shot. the interior is dulled down as well. The main body finish will remain glossy though. I'm trying to temper the use of weathering and not over do it. Any of you that have dabbled in rust and weathering know how easy it is to do just a little more... The story on this car is that it was stripped down to build a hot rod on a slim budget. The short cuts taken to do body repair have come back to rust through. Later on, the 29 grill shell was swapped out for the 32 shell along with headlights from who knows what. Now that the car is back together and on the road again, an engine swap, wheels and new paint job is planned when the savings account permits.

very nice work on the details.. The trunk latch is a nice touch. The interior is beautify; worthy of open doors or convertible.

Doesn't take too many photos to see you know what you're doing. Excellent start and great subject.

Man oh man, what a brilliant combination. A fantastic marriage of a big bad long mega motor to a car from the long hood era. It seems such an obvious choice once you see it. Mighty nice !

Great work on the 8-ball shift knob, not to mention the rest of the car. My dad had a 37 sitting in our driveway for years before he was finally able to afford to fix it up. I built a model of the restored version as you can see in my sig. Your's is a really nice rendition of the car during the driveway years. Your weathering turned out quite nice, especially the choice of colors.

couple more... Here's mock-up of the chassis. The chassis will be complete once the steering are and tie rods are built. The headlights, which are mounted on short sections of brass rod, were created from pen caps. I made a mold from my first set and now I can pour as many as I need in resin. The basic part is extra long and can be cut shorter as the situation demands. The bezels will be made from slices of aluminum tube. Still more to do on the engine too, including fuel lines and generator wiring. the radiator tubes are just set in place. I need to add the hose clamps and then make sure everything fits in place. The fan had to be cut off to bring it in closer to the front of the engine. There wasn't quite enough room to mount the radiator the way it was. The upper tank of the radiator was covered in gold BMF and then painted matte black. then some of the paint was rubbed off to show a brass radiator underneath.