Alyn

I may have missed if this was mentioned already, but time is a big factor as well. It takes a ton of time to add a lot of detail and/or scratch built content to a model. Sure there's skill invovled, but super detailing requires super commitment. If you aspire to be one of the great ones, you had better be willing to invest the time. If you don't, that's cool too and you'll have a lot more time to invest in other areas of you life. Your better half may or may not think that's a good thing. I have no doubt that there are many builders on MCM that could detail circles around many of us, but they don't want to spend that kind of time on a build. Some of my favorite builders around here add very little aftermarket or scratch built parts, but end up with beautiful models. Clean build style, glassy paint in a flattering color and good photography are great assets that don't cost a wheelbarrel full of cash. Even their choice of subject matter makes a difference.

Interesting paint job I have a few pics of what I assume is the same car. Let me know if you what me to post 'em. I took them at this years KKOA show in Salina, Ks.

Very handy info on the decals. Thanks for sharing. The chassis shots are drop dead georgous. This one's going to give your white Bronco a run for the money. Both are great builds. You really have this figured out.

Excellent tip! I read about this foam on another hobby site. They were looking for a material to use for making brick walls. It didn't turn out to be the ideal product for brick walls, but looks to be just the ticket for fender flares and who knows what else. Luckily, there's a distributor a mile or two from where I work, I'll be able to stop and and see it first hand. Did you try a skim coat of putty over the foam to seal the holes? Thanks for sharing

You'd think the WIP would be here with the rest of the trucks and the link would be there, not the other way around. That is, of course unless you are planning on customizing it into a Giant Alcoa wheeled hot rod

Great job of capturing the Jairus original. That first pic of the side view is perfect. I really like how you kept the fairing behind the driver small. So many times they look way over sized. Nice job. Is this the first one done in the challenge?

I hope that was in your "Yoda" voice

Mark, I don't think those round thingies in your tutorial would even fit under a dash!

Another great one, Curt. I was so glad to see that someone with your clean build style was going to build this clean example of a 32 coupe. You really did her up nice!

Thanks, Dan. If you've been to Mt Sunflower, you've been around. I went up the "North face" in my built Cherokee a few years back.

As a lover of details, you certainly have my respect. This is a stellar build. The cameras will be clicking at the NNL. Have fun.

Seems like the latest one is usually the favorite one, but having grown up in Utah and being a big fan of Bonneville, I'd have to say this is my favorite.

Love your work, John, so I'm enjoying every bit of this one! I've had good luck with WD-40 for removing gummy glue without damaging whats underneath. As mentioned by someone else, test first.

Those seats are a knock-out, Marcos. Nothing like the 50's and 60's for some flash and pizazz! Awesome work, as always.

Good call on the color change, Bernard. I think that suits it well. It's a nice plain color, but not black. Looks like you're a quick study on the weathering powders; your paint job is cruddy. (in a good way )

This should give you an idea of where they go: http://image.highper...+389_engine.jpg

I haven't done that much weathering (yet), but can tell you picking up a basic set of chalk pastels is a good start. I have a set of 24 of the basic colors, and a couple of 4-packs; one grey tones, and one earth tones. The 4 packs are a brand called "Generals" and the 24 pack is "Gallery". Both were easy to find at Hobby Lobby and maybe Michaels. The grey & earth tones should be just what you need for some desert dust. You can scrape the chalk stick with an Xacto knife, or rub it on sandpaper; catching the powder on a piece of paper. Then apply with a small short bristle brush. Keep in mind that chalk powder adhears to a flat or matte surface much better than gloss. Testor's Dullcoat is your friend when it comes to weathering. You can also use the Dullcoat to seal or "fix" the surface after applying the powders. Powder and Dullcoat can be added in more layers if you like to keep adding to the effect. The inside of my '29 roadster is an example of what you can do with matte black and grey pastels. It might be what you need for the outside of yours. For the tires, sand them as is often done, and then shake them up in a sandwich baggy with some light grey chalk dust. I haven't tried this yet, but have read that is is a very effective method to dirty up some tires. Good luck with your project. It's an excellent concept to build from.

When you're done, build me a 1:1. This looks like it would be a blast to drive! very cool.

Have we finally found something that won't "buff out"?

Thanks, Ken I wanted to wrap up the pedals, so I scratch built a gas pedal tonight. The pedal itself is made from a scrap of styrene that has some ribs on the surface. I cut a sliver about 3/32" wide, cleaned it up with some 400 grit paper and slightly rounded the top corners. This piece was epoxied to some 26 guage wire, bent to shape and run through a small piece of 3/64" brass tube for a pivot. The brass and copper were dipped in Blacken-It. the pedal is brush painted with Floquil engine black.I'll add some charcoal powder to make the ribs stnad out a bit more. Some more charcoal will be used to get rid of the white ring around the base of the other pedals. Still have the dash and steering to do before I can finish up the interior. I'm up in the air on the "H" pattern on the shift knob. It's hand painted with titanium white artists oil paint. I'm trying to decide whether to leave it or wipe it off with turpentine.

Jeffrey, you're apparently a man of few words. I appreciate your interest. Although I'm trying to move my focus to another car, I managed to move this one forward a bit. It seems like the closer you get to the end, the slower it goes. I'm sure most of you are on the constant lookout for little things that look like big things. I thought some nails might make some pretty good pedals. These nails (or tacks) are about 1/2" long. I snipped the points off and then chucked the nail up in a Dremel tool. While spinning, I pressed some sandpaper up against the head to give it a machined look. That's pretty simple so the only thing left is to drill some holes in the floor and glue them in. I think this idea is a keeper. I'll be doing it again. A short chunk of styrene rod turned into a shift knob after another ride in the Dremel. This time with a bit more filing and sanding to get the shape right. This was followed by a couple of coats of matte black applied by brush. Here's the result so far. And finally, a couple more little bits. I built a battery box out of some styrene flat stock and angle. The battery is from Revell's 40 Ford. It will be getting some detail painting and battery cables. The carb linkage is also scratch built from a couple of small strips of aluminum and some beading wire. I still have to wind some small diameter wire for the throttle return spring. The fuel lines; miniature clear tubing with 1/32" brass tubes (for fittings) are done, but they didn't quite make it to the photo shoot. thanks for taking a look.

You've got some really neat weathering effects going on with the engine, Daniel. Many moons ago, I steam cleaned engines and the appearance of big areas of the engine blue flaking off to reveal the bare metal underneath, plus the slightly oily look is spot on. Very nice. Nice radiator weathering to. Looking forward to see the finished seats.

With this much attention to chassis detail, the motor ought to be killer. Looking forward to seeing some more. Nice work. You have me confused on the rear axle. Is it a Ford 9", or a GM 12 Bolt, or some hybrid I've never heard of?

I don't know the P/N, but I'd look for some .020" X .010" strip for the trim. The front corners where it turns from the side and goes across the top of the windshield are fairly sharp bends, so that's a tough call. The styrene may not bend quite that sharp, so some relief cuts would be needed, or a miter joint might work, but could end up being two angular. After glueing down the trim strip, a light sanding with 600 or finer paper will knock the edge off. Sand until it's sufficiently rounded over. The quarter round is entirely the wrong shape. Half round might work, but a close look at the 1:1 strip will show you that it has a rectangular cross section with rounded corners. BTW, styrene in these smaller sizes bends quite well. I would glue on the trim pieces and get them properly shaped, then paint the whole car. After the paint is cured and polished, then the trim could be foiled or painted and the vinyl roof installed. Paint the car first, then the trim and top in the order of your preference. For the vinyl, masking tape painted with a matte finish can be pretty convincing, but there are other methods available that you and others may prefer. HTH

Nice weathering job on the yellow plate. It looks just like a panel off a piece of construction equipment that was found after it had been laying on ground for a few years.