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Foxer

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Everything posted by Foxer

  1. I'm with this 100% ... I buy kits BECAUSE I build them!
  2. Those are looking good ... a fun build for sure!
  3. That's a good looking build ... especially for the first one! Those are sharp edges along the black trim, very nice.
  4. That's going to look great in street clothes! Certainly an eye catching color.
  5. a beautiful looking model and very interesting background story.
  6. You're a Savior, Charlie ... gonna have to get you a Red Cross Medal!
  7. a #61- #80 bit set will do most all the holes for wiring a 1/24 -1/25 car. Larger sizes are also helpful for various holds that come up. I just used a 1/4" bit to seat a brass tube to mount a wheel.
  8. needs a password
  9. One of my all time favorite cars ... and what a beautiful job you did on this one!
  10. I'm blown away by what you started with! The Chevy rear fenders are really taking shape at the front ... holy cow! I may not be able to speak during this, but I WILL be here watching!
  11. o-man sent me those wheels, Casey, so can say they scale out to 15" wheels. This was perfect on my 944 but I expect the 911 was using 15" way back then also ... that you'll have to determine.
  12. You got me with this one! My 2nd car was a white on red '59 Impala that I did start building long ago, but all that BMF never got finished. Maybe this will get me going again. Yours is looking real good!
  13. I need to do a set of Fuchs with aluminum outside rings and black centers. I planned to paint the aluminum first and then mask the centers, but how to get a good mask for this is throwing me. Here's a shot of the 1:1 wheels like I need .. and these are the wheels before primer. It's just the deeper center that has to be black, the shape not exactly as the 1:1 photo above. I'd appreciate any thoughts greatly.
  14. Really nice build! Those are some sharp edges on the trim!
  15. Nice ... don't see one of these every day!
  16. It's been awhile but work hasn't stopped. I've been going through some tough decisions and fitting that has progressed slowly as I worked things out. First, the wheels. o-man sent me some Fuchs that were the right size ... 15" ... and they are slightly small to fit into the tires I have with the right sidewall dimensions for series 50/55 tires. I had some old phone-dials that I kept modifying and eventually just hollowed them out so the Fuchs fit even with the outside edges. These photos show the results .. There's a space around the edge that the photos show I'll have to putty up, but overall, they are looking right! I've also been fitting the 924 dash and it's been tough to get the exact placement right along the windshield. I think I've got enough pieces glued in now to get the dash in place, so hopefully this will end shortly and I can get to the last body mods for the roll under behind the rear wheel wells. The sunroof also got scribed along the way.
  17. I've been curious how these products and other similar ones actually work. The stick adhesive would have to be much weaker than the initial stick of the glue you're using. Let us know how they do.
  18. That sure looks like a German Beetle. My wife had a US '68 and had different tail lights and, most notable, bumpers were completely different. It sure looks like the best Beetle Revel has done, though.
  19. Cool ... cooler, actually! I'm going to have to remember the wet water trick. Makes sense to me. Good to see it's coming apart. You may have gotten me to try getting some more glue bombs apart.
  20. There's a lot of USP ,,, Unspoken Sending of Parts here by many that just reflects how helpful and friendly it is here!
  21. I remembered a thread from Dr Cranky about making cracking paint ... was a new product he tried called Distress Crackle Paint ... it's near the end of the page.
  22. You're getting good advice here. The D3200 is a good body for what you want. I had a D5200 but I do a lot of other things with it besides models. I would tend to stay away from the kit lenses ... they are just to get buyers and not the best lenses. It all comes down to your needs, though. I have a Nikkor 18-200mm lens I got with my first DSLR and it is my normal lens ... everything but close ups. I have the Tamron 90mm Macro for models. It's an excellent lens and seemed better for my needs than what Nikkor had. It stops down to f/32 with great depth of field. Here's a couple shots with the Tamron lens. Just remember ... all the photos shown here, including mine, have been reduced for the web ... not great for evaluating a lens.
  23. I had to fine US Military plates in Germany when building a car I owned there and found this site. There's a page of Military Plates if you scroll down the list at the left. Doesn't seem they used any special plates in England going by the ones they have.
  24. hehe ... how did we get on slide rules here, Charlie? They are easy to use, but the tough part is figuring out where the decimal goes. I think that only helped me later in my career after calculators and computers entered the picture. I always had an idea where the answer should be for any calculation. The freezer is the most used way to did-assemble but it's not perfect. Lightly glued kits respond well to it. Heavily glued gobs resist almost everything. The paint thinner may help most with those delicate parts.
  25. I couldn't sleep so I checked in ... a rare occurrence. I used some Testors Enamel Thinner and also some Lacquer thinner ... both were safe on the plastic. I used an old paintbrush and just lathered it on, dripping all over. I did do a check first, but those thinners are in the "safe" paints I use ... though the lacquer over primer. I set it sit a few minutes and pried and ran a knife along the joint. It's not a solve-all solution but it did soften some of the joints and I will be using it again. I wasn't planning to use many of the parts so I was brutal this round. On something sensitive, like your dash, I'd try letting it sit and reapply, back up and do again. It doesn't seem to go into the glue very far, but the outside did soften. Now, I went through engineering school on a slide rule ... and I hate them! As far as the X-Frame, centering the cuts around the cross seems the only way to have things sort of match. There aren't too many that would see it to start with.
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