Chuck Most

Okay... that works.

I quit using it because it turns brown over time. Not every time, but frequently enough for me. I use Elmer's type glue or five minute epoxy to fasten clear pieces.

Assuming you have already uploaded the pics to Fotki, the process is- Once you have opened the full-size image, click the 'share' button. A drop-down menu will appear. This is the drop-down menu. When you move over it, the cursor should change from an arrow to a pointing finger shape. Left-click the "Image URL for use on other sites" address. If you have slow internet it might take a minute. The address will highlight in orange, and 'Copied' will appear. The 'image' Icon is the tree, just below and to the left of the 'smileys' icon. Click on that- it will open a new window with a prompt for the URL. Move the cursor into the URL box and right-click to paste it. Then click 'OK'- the image will appear in the text editor. Again, if you have slow interenet it might take a moment. All there is to it.

My aunt's '89 had those same wheels from the factory, but I'd advise against painting your model in the weird burgundy/charcoal paint scheme her truck sported.

It is- only the brand name is different.

SAS is still around, but as has been mentioned, not nearly in the same capacity as before. The guy who owns it now seems to be more into off-road model products than tuner stuff. I do know Sebastian is a regular on the Off Road Models forum.

Meh.. you expect such yawn-inducing features in a Pocher kit.

I have, but it actually took three tries before I actually built something that resembled what I owned. I've owned a '71 Dodge Charger, and toyed with the idea of turning the AMT R/T into my base model version. I got as far as filling in the 'gills' in the doors. When I had a '66 Cutlass I used it as reference to build the AMT 442 kit, though the fact my Cutlass was a non-442 (AND a four-door) meant the model wasn't of the 1:1. I did use the Monogram '87 Thunderbird Turbo Coupe to build a model of my 1:1 without the faded paint on the quarters- that is actually the only vehicle I've ever owned with a direct scale kit available. I'm currently working on converting an AMT '92 Ford F-150 longbed into a model of my current pickup, a 1994 F-250 regular cab 2wd. Fortunately the kit has the 351 and AOD as does my 1:1- I even dug up an airbag steering wheel from a '91 Taurus SHO. (AMT never changed the steering wheel to represent the '94-up airbag unit). Once I figure out a way to duplicate the XLT wheel covers I'll be in business!

Yeah- lack of detail on the MPC engine seems like less of a dealbreaker now. Replicating all that plumbing would be fun, though.

When I read 'Ford Courier gasser', I was only half-expecting this- I thought you had a resin '50's Courier sedan delivery body and were building a gasser with that. I do like Couriers, and I like seeing the gasser look used on unorthodox vehicles. Can't wait to see how this one turns out!

That's right, but then the sore spot becomes the engine itself. It is rather light on detail. It would look VERY out of place in the S-10's engine bay, especially when you have 1982-vintage tooling on an engine being used in a mid 1990's vintage model. I don't have any 1:1 external dimensions for a 2.2, but the MPC engine looks a bit on the small side to me. Nevermind the fact you'd need to track down an MPC Cavalier kit, only to grab perhaps half a dozen usable parts out of it to complete the S-10. I still think the average modeler could cobble up a more convincing 2.2 than what's included with the Cavalier kit.

I don't know if it is fixed on the Flock '52, my guess would be no. From what I hear it will be dealt with on the next production run- not sure when that will be.

Awesome! There's a guy who makes working window mechanisms from brass in 1:25 scale- and I don't mean a simple little 'rack and pinion' kind of deal- he actually replicates the 1:1 mechanism in brass, just as it looks on the real car. I've struggled with making operating widows using straps, like on a race car.

You know, that process actually pretty well describes how the 1:1 Hudson convertibles were made- they all started out as club Coupes.

That pic is actually my avatar on another board.

Love it... spoon and all.

I stretched the front subframe on an SN-95 Mustang ('94-04 style) to match up the wheelbase- you'd still need to modify the area behind the rear axle to match up with the rear bumper. Keep in mind the body on the Revell kit is a bit shorter than it should be- Revell modified the Mark VII's body proportions to fit the earlier Matt Hay Thunderbird pro street kit chassis.

I built mine mostly out of box, but with a Pontiac engine instead of the Hemi. But I'm thinking what you have in mind will be quite a bit more interesting.

Thing is, I don't have the same issues with the chrome sprues in Lindberg or Revell kits. Moebius appears to use a clear coat under the chrome plating as Round 2 does, but the chrome comes off pretty quickly. The enamel coat underneath takes a bit longer, but in some cases it's so thin you can get away with just spraying a thin coat of primer over it.

Yeah- thick AND it doesn't like to be stripped. The last few Round2 chrome sprues I've stripped really like to hang onto their clear coating. The mid '90's stuff would practically fall off if you so much as rubbed on it with your fingers too hard- this stuff, not so much.

If the gloss comes out somewhat dull, you can wait a day or two and spray a few more fresh coats of clear on it and that should restore the shine. The other thing to keep in mind is humidity. This paint seems VERY sensitive to humidity. All paints are to a degree, but the One Coat line seems particularly sensitive to it..

The Grand Prix was a 3.1 V6- no idea what the Berretta or Citation had, though I THINK the Citation has a V6 as well. The Fiero engine would be perfect for the 2.5, but that wouldn't help you with a '95. You might be able to make the Cavalier engine work, but it wouldn't be very accurate. You'd be almost as well off just making your own four cylinder from rectangular plastic stock and some parts box pieces.

Yeah, this kit is typical AMT of the era- for better and for worse. I'm kicking around the idea of cutting it down to a shorter wheelbase. I know the Revell kit is short wheelbase, and it's coming back out, but that's just as typical of its era engineering-wise as this kit, and something about the Revell body just looks weird to me.

I really like the woody treatment!

I've spoken with a number of UPS and USPS employees who say that 'Fragile' markings are pretty much lauged off... all packages are handled in exactly the same manner, no matter what is stamped on the box. As a rule I never have them put a Fragile label on anything I send out, because in my experience it seems having a package marked Fragile all but guarantees it will arrive in more pieces than when I sent it out.