
Chuck Most
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Everything posted by Chuck Most
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Here's how it looks with some MRC Cragars and AMT tires. I also lifted the nose a bit by flipping the front spindles upside-down... going for an old-school street machine kind of look. My only big worry was the grille- the engraving is so fine I was afraid I wouldn't be able to get a good black wash, but I think I got a decent one. I'll see about getting a better quality pic tomorrow after work.
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Diamond Reo Snow Plow
Chuck Most replied to Chuck Most's topic in Model Trucks: Big Rigs and Heavy Equipment
Thanks guys! Almost forgot I ever built this thing. I don't think I ever posted these before... the only two in-progress pics I took during the build process. -
I opened this thread thinking you were doing a large scale figure of WWE wrestler Test. I am dissapoint.
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Truck Kits You've Scored Recently
Chuck Most replied to Superpeterbilt's topic in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
SSSSSSSSSSShhhhhhhhhhhhhhh.... it's a secret. The tractor frame rails aren't included, but the remainder of the tractor-specific parts are. -
Looking for a roundish car
Chuck Most replied to Relic_Models's topic in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
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Questions on Monogram 1940 Ford pickup
Chuck Most replied to Nova-ss's topic in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
Somewhere around this dump, I have a 1-ton conversion I've been working on- I'm using Monogram '36 Ford coupe fenders and headlights along with modified side panels from the optional '38 hood in the reissued '37 Revell pickup. Not sure what I'll do for a hood, but I might rework one from a '50 Ford F1 or '48 Ford. No matter what, the grille and much of the hood trim would need to be made from plastic trip. Wheels and tires could be nabbed from any of the Revell '48 Ford kits- they wouldn't be 100% correct (the hubcaps in particular would be all kinds of wrong, appearance-wise), but I can't think of anything readily available that would be an as-good or better match. The kit has a stock dash, but no stock inner door panels, though reworking the inner door panels to a stock configuration wouldn't be too big of a deal. At one time Best Model Car Parts did a complete stock interior kit for these, but I no longer see it on their website. The basic cab would be the same other than that. In fact, the cab from this could be used for pretty much any 1938-1947 Ford truck with the appropriate tweaks needed here and there. Stock wheelbase was 112" on the half-tons. 3/4 and 1 ton pickup and "platform" trucks rode a 122" wheelbase. So obviously the chassis will need to be extended. Also (obviously) the bed will need to be lengthened, I just don't know off the top of my head by exactly how much. I don't have the kit right in front of me, but I think the Monogram is pretty much mechanically stock as far as the chassis goes. It might have a dropped front axle, but a stock Ford front axle should be easy enough to find, or you could modify the kit piece to a stock-height axle. -
C... but I'd "settle" for B with C's engine.
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It doesn't make any sense
Chuck Most replied to forthlin's topic in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
No, it makes them both an idiot and rich. -
Very nice! I really hope the tooling for the '69 still exists.
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Lincoln Y block V8?
Chuck Most replied to Aaronw's topic in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
The Starliner does indeed have an FE... in fact, the Round 2 2-in-1 reissue from a few years back included two complete 352s. it's a very nice engine, but not what you want. If it came right down to it, using the Revell '56 F-100 would be very workable. All depends on how dead-on you want it to be, I suppose. -
Truck Kits You've Scored Recently
Chuck Most replied to Superpeterbilt's topic in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
Well, I will say you're on the right track. -
Truck Kits You've Scored Recently
Chuck Most replied to Superpeterbilt's topic in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
That Haulaway Trailer is one I'd love to see reissued. I know it's kind of a flight-of-fancy design, but I've got a very specific idea in mind for it... -
Finally? Didn't you just start on this a few weeks ago? That came out great!
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I recently bought the Revell of Germany boxing of the '05 Impala. Basically the additional 20 bucks or so you'll pay (besides covering the cost of importing the kit twice) is a much better set of decal graphics- waterslide, as opposed to the US SnapTite's crummy peel-and-stick. You also get markings for a Canton, Ohio cruiser, a Chevrolet Police Vehicles press car, and the generic "City Police Department" scheme from the US boxing. In addition to the gauges and laptop, you also get door and window switch graphics for the front door panels, hub cap centers, scripts and emblems, and even small blackout pieces for the door handles on the Canton car, which worked a lot better than I thought they would. There might be more I'm forgetting, but those are the highlights. The decals are printed in Italy- between that and how well they laid down and how well they are printed, I'd almost be willing to bet they're done by Cartograf. This was the RoG kit- as far as content goes (besides decals) it differs from the US boxing only in that the grille, lenses, and headlight reflectors don't come already installed to the body, and the interior is molded in gray rather than blue. Both kits come with the light bar already assembled. I used the Canton graphics on the RoG kit, and filled in the mounting holes for the light bar- I will add a Vector (and some spotlights) later, at which point I'll take a few more pictures of it. I wanted to use the leftover Chevrolet Police Vehicles graphics, so I dug out a US kit I had. I then removed the grille and headlight reflectors so I could detail them, did a little prep work, and a few hours later had this. I basically threw both of these together at the same time, during a 12-hour stretch of a rainy, boring day. I still need to get better at painting side trim on late model cars like this, and I REALLY need to get my act together when it comes to laying down a smooth, glossy black paint job, but all in all, not a bad way to kill what would have been a very boring and unproductive day otherwise.
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Bugatti Veyron, McLaren P1, Airfix, 1/24(ish)
Chuck Most replied to Matt Bacon's topic in Model Cars
I like them! If messing around with the Revell Build-and-Play kits has taught me one thing, it's that even a somewhat toyish, super-simplified kit can be made to look very good, provided the basics are already right. Looks like they are on these. -
Some nice stuff guys! Thanks for the responses. Not the best pic, but today was quite literally a rainy day, so I spent it doing a couple of projects. Weather permitting, I'll get some better pics tomorrow and do an Under Glass post.
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The kit piece is clear red (actually molded clear and painted clear red at the factory), but the 1:1 looks like this... I've built a few of these, but never got a good result masking off the taillights. I was cleaning off a spot on the workbench, and I swept up a few discs I had left over from using a standard-size hole punch. I grabbed one and held it up to the Impala's lens piece, and noticed the disc was just about the right size. I placed a piece of masking tape on a piece of scrap .020" plastic stock, and then punched out four discs. I then peeled the masking tape off of the discs, and applied them to the taillight panel, over the spots where the actual lenses show through. I also applied foil to the Impala emblem in the middle- after the whole piece is sprayed black, I scrape the paint off the emblem with a toothpick. The Revell of German version of this kit actually includes a decal for this, but the exposed foil technique looks better. Note that I don't have the rear marker lights masked in the pic- I used small rectangular strips of BMF for that. It is important to apply the tape to the plastic first- if you try to just punch out the tape, it will tear. By putting it on the thin plastic, you get a nice, round piece with clean edges. The masking tape lifts easily from the unpainted plastic. I didn't think of it this time, but since the part is clear with red paint, I could have scraped the clear red paint away from the centers of the inboard lights to represent the backup lamps. Maybe next time. I know this is a very kit-specific tip, but maybe this technique can be applied to other kits as well. Tomorrow I'll see if I can post pics of the finished result.
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Those tires aren't exactly new- they're the lowrider tires that have been around since the late '90's, just without the printed whitewall. They might be a tad wide, but don't quote me on that- I'll have to dig out the Scirocco kit I have in the stash and see for sure. If they worked as far as width, and you could live without the lack of sidewall detail, I think you'd be okay.
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1971 Ford C600 Flatbed
Chuck Most replied to Chuck Most's topic in Model Trucks: Big Rigs and Heavy Equipment
Right- the Hudson's on the back of it for now, I'm thinking the permanent cargo might be scrap metals or something like that. -
This one's basically done- I still need to settle on what to stick on the back, at which time I'll do the sides and any signage. The wheels and crane are from an Italeri parts pack, and the Todco liftgate is from the base kit- the C600 city delivery. I used that kit because of the longer frame. The flat bed itself is from a C600 stake truck.
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post just your cabovers here
Chuck Most replied to Ken Gilkeson's topic in Model Trucks: Big Rigs and Heavy Equipment
What's going behind it, you ask? One of these... Or possibly two, like so... -
AMT Fred Lorenzen '65 Ford Galaxie 500XL
Chuck Most replied to mmdm4's topic in Car Kit News & Reviews
Long story short, it's a '60's kit, but a very good one. This ought to tell you more than you probably want to know... http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=70519&page=1 -
Diamond Reo Apollo 92
Chuck Most replied to DRIPTROIT 71's topic in WIP: Model Trucks: Big Rigs and Heavy Equipment
One fine Diamond... and hinged doors, too? Nice!