Chuck Most

Since I've gotten back to tinkering with this custom Hudson Hornet (which has been an on/off project for about two years), I figure I'll just leave this here...

Nice! I need to steal a Supra six and put it in something.

"Windscreen"... Seriously, though- it came out great.

One test shot, one advance copy. Wish I had a stash... I will soon enough.

I'm in. Those sound like something I need to try.

I already built a nice one, so...

Actually saw these yesterday.

The 1996 Chevy 3500 Dually had the updated interior and grille- if I recall, the body was molded in a dark red (maroon? burgundy?) with a gray interior. The earlier Phantom dually, on the other hand, did have the '88-'94 style dash. I remember buying a '96 because I planned to cut down the interior so I could use it as part of an update on an MPC '88 C1500, but never got around to doing so.

"Good hands. Bad taste in cars." - Will Darnell

Liberty did that one. It's nice, but as you said, a bit underscale.

This and this. A few mists of primer and some wet sanding and it's no longer an issue. And what's the first thing you do with one of those polished-plastic looking kit bodies? Sand it so the primer will adhere better.

I'm really hoping someone will do a photoetch and/or resin set to do a Mercury version.

I like to paint the insides and ends of the crossmembers, and the insides of the frame rails, first. I may skip this step if the crossmembers are mostly flat, but if they have an I-beam shape or lots of undercuts, I'll paint them before installation into the frame. Then I'll scrape away any paint where I need to apply glue, assemble the frame, and paint the rest. That's the best way to guarantee you'll "hit" everything and end up with no bare spots- or fewer bare spots. Going with a primer which is close to the intended color helps too, just in case. Using an airbrush helps put paint into those hard to reach spots, but isn't mandatory. Finding a paint that covers well without overloading the parts is also a big plus. If I just need a basic black frame, I like to use Krylon Rust Tough flat black straight from a rattle can- it covers very well and dries quickly.

Here's how it looks with decals.

Full blow-by-blow... http://chuckmost.wix.com/madhouse-miniatures#!Moebius-71-Ford-F100-Ranger-XLT/ccly/555500860cf248741732db65 I probably missed a few things, but whaddya want for nothin'?

Yeah- fit pretty well, just to be clear. It is possible to mount it a little less-than-level if you're not careful, but just keep an eye on it and you'll be fine. I'd suggest adding it after the cab and bed are mounted to the chassis to guarantee the cab and bed trim is lined up.

The last 18 years didn't suck as much as Tueday's shift, though...

EVERYTHING on this kit fits great- other than the separate side spears, but even those fit pretty well without any real positive means of location.

I love it when that happens! I just got a couple of original issue AMT White Western Stars for about five bucks more than the list price of a reissue- I don't even want to think what they'd have gone for prior to the reissue.

Nice! Isn't it a CTS, though? The DTS was the big, front-drive model that replaced the Deville.

I went into work this morning at a quarter to seven, but the clock on the wall at the front of the shop said 6:05 AM. Then it flashed the time... January 1, 1997. I left at 3PM on May15, 2015. I'm thinking my next paycheck will have quite a bit of overtime, seeing as how I worked just a little over 18 years straight in one day.

The five spokes are from the kit, I used AMT tires, though... which, by the way, fit the Moebius wheels pretty well.

It's basically a reissue of the old Uptown Automotive kit. I've never built it, but none of Jeff's stuff has ever disappointed me.

Well, "Velvet Ride" sounds way better than "Sandpaper Ride" or "Gas Station Toilet Paper Ride".