Chuck Most

Pffffffffffffffffftttttttttttttttttttttt.....

It's your kit- do as you please. You got a screaming deal on it, and since that kit was just reissued, the early versions likely won't jump up in value any time soon. It's not like some important piece of history will be lost if you make it into a zombie hunter... and this is coming from a guy who had enough of the whole "zombie" thing ages ago.

You people are crazy. There's only one real Batmobile...

I think he means cars of which no examples are left, not cars from defunct manufacturers. There are still examples of cars from some of those defunct manufacturers. But there may be a car built by a manufacturer still in business, but none of that particular model are left.

Right... because a 2015 Taurus looks EXACTLY LIKE a 2015 Cadillac ATS. No difference between a Camaro and a Civic. Yep, they all look the same. Weird question- when's the last time you saw an optometrist?

Awful movie, but a great car. I'll be watching this one.

Sheesh... forgot the Revell (nee Monogram) Datsun 720 is technically a snap kit, just not marketed as such for the current reissue. So...

Originally that was a Palmer (or was it Pyro?) kit. I don't know if it was actually reverse engineered from the AMT kit, but I do know that more than a few parts interchange between the the Lindberg reissue and the AMT kits.Makes you think.

I'll second "How to build a Traditional Ford Hot Rod". Vern Tardel is a traditional rodding expert (no quote marks there) who actually deserves that title. He knows his stuff. He was still building them the way guys did 70 years ago... decades after they'd fallen out of favor and decades before people started jumping back on that buggy-sprung bandwagon.

The first caster to do a wagon transkit for this will all but certainly be getting some of my money. I have to say I wasn't keen on the idea of this subject at first, but after seeing the kit in person, I might actually end up buying a couple of them. But for now I just need to settle on what to do with the one I have now... mild period street machine, or straight-axle drag car...

This. I seriously don't understand why there's such a huge divide (figuratively) between the two scales in so many people's minds.

Revell Build and Play '15 Mustang GT with paint and a few minor tweaks. A couple of the Revell '97 Ford Expedition SSV kits in fire and police livery... Lindberg Crown Vic with Modelhaus wheels and hubcaps. And the Revell Build and Play CV. And this one is a little further along than in this pic, but it's a Revell Caprice which will be built as Michigan Motor Carrier car.

These are not the best pics, but this is a '52 Hudson Hornet built in a sort of '60's/'70's "Saturday Night Special" style. According to some old-time racers in my area, guys were still running Hudsons into the mid '80's, though by then a lot of them had been repowered. I'm sticking with the 308 for this version, though.

You had my attention at Farmall...

Ordered this on Saturday, and got it today. Nice little surprise for when I got home from work.

I must have missed that announcement! I'll replace it with this one...

This one is based on a few "bench racing" sessions from high school. Quite a few guys had Fox-body Mustangs... there was a really nice '84 GT, a somewhat ratty '84 convertible with a V6, an extremely nasty '86 LX 5.0, and even an '87 LX coupe with a 2.3. In auto shop class, and hanging out elsewhere, we'd all talk about building the "ultimate" Mustang, whatever that meant at whatever particular time we were discussing the subject. One idea was just a low-buck LX coupe- nothing fancy, maybe even with a backyard-sprayed olive drab paint job, and some type of potent, but oddball, engine. This model is sort of inspired by that idea. The Center Line wheels are from Pegasus- narrowed a bit to fit inside the Mustang's fender wells. I started with the drag kit by Revell. There's a 'hidden stock building option in that kit- all of the stock parts still come in the kit, and there's even a full set of stock tires. So I stashed all the drag-specific parts sans the cowl hood to use on another Mustang project and used the stock suspension, etc.. I still don't know if I'll go with a stock-type exhaust or some SuperTrap type mufflers just ahead of the rear tires, but I'm calling it done for now. The "backyard sprayed" Olive Drab is Tamiya, and I painted the hood flat black to represent an unpainted fiberglass unit- I may or may not add hood pins to it. The paint is intentionally less-than perfect, and I rubbed through to the red primer in a few spots. The Michigan "Stang" plate is from a Monogram '94. I left the front turn signal lenses clear to represent those clear "euro" lenses everybody was using 10-15 years ago. As for that potent but oddball engine? It's a 3.8 V6 with a supercharger, swiped from a Revell '92 Thunderbird SC. I also used the T-Bird's radiator and electric fan. The air cleaner box is the Mustang piece, spliced into the T-Bird intake tract. I may eventually install the spoiler, add some kind of WW2-inspired graphics, and of course sort out the exhaust situation, but it'll look alright on the shelf as-is for the time being.

Oh, there'd be interest in the subject. There just doesn't seem to be that much interest in this section of the forum, apparently.

When I saw the box art I thought "Why is Brad Pitt about to jump out of the buggy?"

Micheal- the '54 is already out. You should be able to get it in any shop or online.

Just a perfect balance- enough hot rod touches to make it work and the muted (but pleasant) color make it stand out.

This "rough" texture many have bellyached about is nothing. Seriously guys- prime and sand, like you normally would! You'll only run into trouble if you want to leave the body unpainted. ^Please allow me to clarify this statement. I haven't seen any real "bellyaching" on this forum about it- a few people who've voiced concerns and wondered if it would be a problem, which is totally understandable. But elsewhere on the internet I've seen people throwing a fit because they can't see their reflection in the plastic. Rest assured, though, it's a non issue! The two '54s I have both lack blemishes of any kind in the chrome- no worries there so far.No flash or terribly visible mold seams on any of the plated parts either, which seemed to be an intermittent problem with the '52 and '53 kits. No sign of it here yet. The only trim to really worry about are the "Hornet" scripts on the front fenders. They stand far enough off the surrounding surface, the problem is that there is a mold line which runs very close to them- use caution removing this mold line, as you may damage the scripts. The "HUDSON" lettering on the hood is finely done. Those could be detailed by foiling the bare plastic, then priming/painting over the foiled lettering. Knock off the paint with the edge of a toothpick between coats. The fender scripts could be done this way as well. Other than that, detailing the side trim, stone shields, and the rest should be a relative cakewalk. Both the fender scripts and hood lettering are supplied on the decal sheet, so you can just zap them off and use the decals if you don't want to bother with detailing the engraved lettering, as I did on mine.