dwc43

I did some searching and this is the only thing I could find other than drag car engines. 330cu in road race engine on the dyno. 376 ft lbs, 400.4hp

No problem, just a thought. I'm going to use them on my project I want to finish in the near future and when I read that post, they just came to mind and thought I share. Great work, puts me to shame, but I'm learning with help and inspiration from this site.

Looks great. With all that detail, might I suggest these for shocks. http://www.rbmotion.com/shocks.html

This is a 72 Dodge Charger that Petty drove. This is off of Marty Robbins Dodge Charger. If I am not mistaken the Hurst Airheart disc breaks came out in 74 along with the aircraft style dry breaks for the fuel cans. Other disc brakes at the time failed due to heat, so drums were used. http://www.airheart-brakes.com/

Thanks for the link. Great photos. Here's a link to my local dirt track that I used to race at that I thought you might like. There are some pics from the 70's and 80's on there. http://www.duckriverspeedway.com/history.htm

Sounds like a good idea. Not sure how it mounted, but you can make out something along the body work where the roof should be. Must be a mount to hold the roof in place.

That 93 car I posted was called a zipper top. They had it modified so they could put the hard top back on it and run it in both divisions.

This car was campaigned in the first Daytona 500 race in 1959. The #64 Holman-Moody Thunderbird was the car driven by Fritz Wilson who finished in 56th place with a blown piston. He actually only made 15 laps before leaving the race. The car that finished in 2nd place was driven by Johnny Beauchamp in the #73 car. In a photo finish, the #42 Lee Petty was initially declared the winner. Driver Banjo Mathews These were the only two I could find.

I looked that over and it's not bad. Still a lot of it is wrong, but it aint bad. It's got the correct intake, but it has a 625 afb on it. They ran Holley 1050 Dominator's back then. I don't think the 1150 came out till later. They did not have disc brakes either and he used the wrong wheels and tires from a modern day kit along with lots of roll cage from a modern day kit instead of making his own. But it looks good. The air cleaner is almost correct too. But what is it with the wing? IT looks too far forward at the base, and too tall and set back to far. Almost like he mixed a 1/24 with a 1/25 scale or something. IT just looks odd for some reason. Hey, PM me with a price on one of those Jo Hans and I'll see if I'm interested or not.

They are expensive, can be built stock or race, have a roll cage, and they are no where close to being correct. I used to have one till we had a fire several years ago. The only thing I have left of it is the engine out of it.

This is my 1970 Plymouth Road Runner in Tor Red. As you can see, it's not close to either Hemi Orange colors. It's very much red in color.

Check out this link and the niffty way one guy did it half way down the page. http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=27577&st=0&p=263349&hl=%20decanting&fromsearch=1&#entry263349 This is another one I found with a quick search that might help, but there are better threads on the subject if you have time to hunt for them. Look under the tips and tricks section when you search. http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=29246&hl=%20decanting&st=0

Not hard at all. You can search on here and find many topics on here. It used to get mentioned quite a lot, but not recently. Anyways, best way to decant it is to get some modelers putty, or stuff they use in fake flower arrangements, and use it to hold a plastic straw onto the can nozzle and just spray it into a bottle. Only use what you need and leave the rest in the can.

Tor Red is not Hemi orange it is very much red. It was the factory color on my 70 Road Runner. Hemi orange is the same color no matter what make it was on. There are also two shades for engines. The 12.5 solid cam Hemi's used Race Hemi Orange and the 10.5 hydro cam Hemi's used Street Hemi Orange which is a lighter shade of the race version. The General Lee is painted Hemi Orange in the first few seasons and is a lighter color than the GM Huger Orange that was used in later shows just to give you an example of what to look for.

Just decant the spray paint and use it in your airbrush. Ha, that's something that I have not heard mentioned on this site in a long time.

Thanks. I need to check my po box and see if the rest of my parts are here to finish it. I just had some major car trouble that I need to deal with along with work, so modeling has come to a standstill for the moment. Just too much to do and on my mind. I'll get this one finished up soon though.

Looks good. I'm kinda partial to a blue color. Seems a lot of them had that as a factory color anyways. I have one of these kits too. I'm thinking of putting a 426 Hemi 4spd or Lenco in mine and make it more of a pro street truck.

You right, they did have skinny drag tires. I'll look and see if I have a set too. My brother built one of these years ago and I ended up with the parts after it got destroyed. It had the correct tires at the time, so I wonder if they changed them at some point. Was your kit sealed, or did someone swap the original tires on it?

Here's a good pic of the wheels.

Nice cars. I need to build me a couple drag cars out of these myself.

You wont find one to match. Best thing is to make it out or styrene rods. Get you osme reference pics and build away. IT's easy to do. The main hoop can be bent out of one piece and everything else will mostly be straight pieces. The drivers side door bars will have some slight bends in them as long as the a pillars, but other than that, pretty much straight. When you want to joint an end to a round tube, just take a knife and fish mouth the end of the round tube and it will fit right in place. That's exactly how we build all of our real cages as well as the NASCAR bunch too.

All I can say is, WOW! You got some skills for sure.