dencon

Yea, sorry about that. i do not know why we cannot correct or edit the titles on our posts like you can on other message boards.

It is very easy to do. You just wet sand them the same way you do with the polishing cloths on the paint. you even use a swurle remover and wax. You can make some of the rough looking kit glass look new that way. Thanks for your thumbs up. Matt

Thanks Dave, It is hard to believe that this movie came out 20.5 years ago. WOW! This is just about my favorite stock car. Something about it. From that time I saw it racing at the 89 Phoenix. Before I knew it was a movie car. I liked it. If I had allot of money, I would love to buy/restore a 90 Lumina NASCAR "Correctly" to circa 1990 and paint it like this car. It seems that the 90 sheet metal,noses & rear bumper are no where to be found. Even the restored one that Hendrick Motorsports restored is WAY OFF and incorrect for 1990. restored

DOH!!!!! Where the heck did I get "LAGUNA" from??????? I think because I was talking to a friend on the phone when I was posting.

I built this when the kit first came out back 1990. I was at the Phoenix race in 89 when they were shooting the movie and had this car in the race. I had no idea who it was at the time. But i thought the car was so cool looking. I got a few shots of it that day. Nothing real good. But right at that time. I wanted to build a model of it. Then the movie came out and I got what that car was. I wondered why it was going into the pits all of the time. (Camera reload) So when Monogram announced that the first Laguna kit was going to be this one. I got it the day it came out. I found that the decal colors were off though. The Yellow in the decals was more like a mustard color. So in the time I was building it. Monogram sold enough of the first run to start a second run with corrected decal colors pretty quick. good thing I bought another kit that came from the second run before I got to the decaling of this car. So the look was even better. I painted it with the yellow and green from the Testors Neon bottle sets. I use a Badger Model 150 to do the fade and I cleared it with Tamaya Clear. After 20 years. it is still one of my favorite models on the shelf.

Nice Model! Great job. I like it!

Update from Tom Kasch: "Bill's back in his room after the operation. As I hear I'll let you know how he is doing." Mitch. I love that "Toy" 4 Here is my "Toy" 8 I built back in 1989

Dave, Those spring pockets look OUTSTANDING!!!

Bill Jenkins has suffered a serious health incident. This was a post today from retired Super Stock racers from the 60s 70s and 80s, Tom Kasch "Just talked to the guys in his shop, still not awake from a operation on his brain. To much blood on his brain. Let's hope for the best and keep him in our prayers." Cards to : Bill Jenkins 153 Pennsylvania ave Malvern, Pa 19355 So in honor of "Da Grump" and to keep him in our thoughts for a great recovery. Post your "Toys" or any other model of a Jenkins Competition race car.

Len, Personally, if I was to build an "As Delivered" Automatic LO23. I would not only use just the 8-3/4 rear end with the springs that are attached. I would also just use the 383 engine block and trans. Then just put the Hemi heads and other stuff on the 383. Yes , before the MOPAR purists loose it on me. It works out fine in the Model Car World. When the model is built. No one would be the wiser. I have done it before and looks good. To me it is just easier then cutting off trans missions from blocks. Just IMHO and just a suggestion

The thing about the Super Stock springs in the kit. They are not so much of artistic licensing by Revell. I fact that was a normal Mod by the drag racers and a suggestion in the NHRA rule book for Super Stock race cars to make room for bigger slicks. I think that they were doing that by 70 or even possibly 69. Here is the springs in the stock location of the restored Arlen Vanke SS/B (Stick) Cuda as it was in 68. Here is the in boarded springs under a ceria early 70s SS/A Dart. I believe that this became common practice by 69 when NHRA reclassified the cars to SS/A You will find this set up in just about every real restored to "Original" LO23s. Just makes for a better looking car with big tires. I have been talking to the owner of this car. This is the car that was Charlie Castaldo's SS/B race car. Charlie is the guy that took all of those famous photos of the ready for delivery LO23s and BO29s sitting out back at Hurst in 68. This car has the inboard spring set up with mini tubs. On an interesting note. The owner of that car has ordered the model kit and is going to compare the kit to his real car. I will let you all know what his findings are. So it will not be too "Off" if you use the in board springs. Hope this helps

Nice looking model, Raoul. As always. A Clean build

Thanks guys. That is about only the second model I have finished in 2 years. I just have not had the building time that I use to. I am working on changing that. Thanks for the good words. Matt

That is a really nice model. I have one of those. You really got this kit to look good. Nice Job.

Sweet looking 75. Nice work.

Back in Nov of 1985. I got my Dec. issue of Hot Rod Mag in the mail. That was always a happy day for me. I was a young kid, dreaming of one day owning a cool hot rodded classic car. (I was driving and fixing up a 69 Cutlass Convert)The 1957 Chevy has always been my ultimate dream car. Well, I came to this page that had a photo of the strangest 57 and the name of the article was "Fuelie '57". I did not know much about cars back then, but I thought I did. I did not get raised around cars. But on this page I saw this 57 that did not have the normal chrome down the sides following the fin. All it had was, what I thought, the 55 Chevy trim. It also had this cool looking color matched steel wheels with the small caps. And it was all orange!!! I could not stop looking at it. That orange looked cool! Then I read and saw the photo of the engine. It has "Fuel Injection"!!!! I did not know they had that in 57!!! Man this car is COOL! Well because of the interest that I got with the building of my Cutlass. I also had found a new hobby. This model car building thing. I had just finished my 3rd model car. The old AMT 57 Chevy. Well I thought that I would build a model of this 57. How hard could it be. BUT WAIT!!! POSTS!!! Well I think I can scratch that. NO! What about the 55 trim. Darn! So I put it on the back burner. One day I discover the flip nose MPC 57. There is my post car. But not stock. So I try cutting the roof off and swapping it onto the AMT 57. Could not get that one to fit. Then I discover, in a Revell 55 that the chrome trim is separate on the chrome tree. So I got that covered now. Well lets make a long story...well not SO long. Needless to say at many attempts over the years. Lost chances of getting the AAM 150. This model stayed in my head for some 22 years. never getting built. Then it happened. Revell announce it. My Fuelie '57 is coming. I got it the day it got to my LHS. Got it home and started to play. FINALLY, I can build it. Well, I kind of put it aside because of other projects. So it sat Now we get to 24 years and 4 months from that first time I saw that car in the Hot Rod. Me and a couple of buddies make a challenge to each other. Lets pick out the same kit. Build it, and try like anything not to tell each other about what we are doing. Then in Sept. We show each other, after we try to guess what each of us built. We all went with this new Revell 75 kit. Well I picked this car to do because. Heck, 24 years and 4 months was just long enough. That was March. As I started to build the car. I came upon a problem. Chevy never painted 57s orange. They had Matador Red, and that was stated in the article of this car. Yes I still have that Hot Rod Mag. I am building a replica of the car. But do I do it as it is for real, Red? Or do I do it as I saw it that day in November of 85? The Orange was what got me into that car. Got to go Orange. So now, after 24 years and now 9 months after seeing it in the Hot Rod Magazine and wanting to build a model of it. Finally My Fuelie '57 I still have not found the right battery for it. I need something that looks 80's like what was in the real car. ...and this is what I saw in Hot Rod that started this some 24 years and 9 months ago. The model is all box stock with a little detail to the engine. The paint is all Testors Lacqures and rubbed out with polishing cloths.

Thanks guys. I will let Dave know. I just saw this finished model yesterday, and was blown away. There is a list of what is resin on this model. Cab Fenders bumper running boards Bed in Sleeper Cab wheels tires (Hard Black resin) Tanks Complete tandum axle rear suspension Complete front suspension engine, all of it Air Brake Compressor The Frame was scratch built off of the front of the F-1 kit frame. There is a complete instruction booklet that comes with the fenders on how to make this frame. All with photos of this frame being constructed. The nuts and bolts come from Tichy Train Co. The BEST styrene nuts and bolts I have ever seen on the market and they are very reasonable in price. Tom, I have no idea about the Bat cable.LOL

My friend Dave Bell built this model F-8 using my resin F-8 items. dave is also the modeler that mastered everything for me. Matt

This was a model I built in the late 80's. It is just a curbside. It was testors paints and cleared with Future (At that time Yuk!) After a few years of sitting on the shelf, the Future clear dulled away and the model went into dilapidation. after all of that and 2 moves across the counter and several small moves. The model ended up with the windows all knocked out of it and the nose knocked off. Maybe a couple of the tires. It sat for a few years at in my model car junk yard. I always liked that car and I wanted to build another one. Looking into getting a new set of 35s. I pulled out the model to find that the color and decals did not have any damaging scratches. I had all of the glass and it was fixable. I even had the missing wheels and tires. So I figured that a resurrection of this model was in order. A couple of days of polishing the glass, reglue a few parts, putting the tires back on, a few little suspension tweaks. Then last a new clear coat and buff and wax. Bob's your uncle! I have a nice NASCAR model in my case in my living room. Because of this. I am starting to bring back many of my 80s NASCAR build I did in 89 and 90 (I built a ton back then) Most of them are in the junk yard. I did also do the same with my Uno Buick. Never give up on your old builds.

The interior was Black. Dave, I always found that interesting, too. I always wonder if he (Frank) did that because he thought that, that was the way CHevy should had made the car. Maybe he thought it made the car look better. Who knows.

OK it is ON!!! I just got the final piece of the puzzle I have been looking for to build an accurate replica of the Gratiot/ Ron Mancini SS/A Dart. So as soon as these decals are done. I will put in my order. I am going full on with this model. This is the model I have been waiting to build for years. Now the planets have aligned. This one will be full on detail and the one that I want to work on getting back east to the big shows with. This will be my best model ever. Matt

*Disclaimer* I did not take any of these photos. I am sorry but I cannot give any credit either. I do not know the photographers. I gathered these off the internet over the years. They are helpful to some model builders. I will post them. I know that there are photographers that get upset that the photos they post on the internet get used all over. Then they sould not put them on the internet. Once you do that. the photos are all up for public use. I have personally post hundred sof photos over the years knowing this. I have seen them pop up on other web sites and such. No credit given to me. I do not care. I am glad that my photos are enjoyed. Once I pout them up on the internet. They are no longer mine. I hope that these photos help and are enjoyed.

I do not want to get to off of Bob's nice build, here. But this might help. much of the decals in the photo of my black 69 camaro are Slixx. I always precoat Slixx decals right on the sheet before using. I either use Krylon Crystal Clear or Tamaya Clear. I know that either of those will never yellow. I do a light mist. Let it sit for a half hour. Then I do a heavy coat. The nice thing about the Tamaya is it is so thin and you can put a whole can on a model and you will not have a ton of "Millage" Again, I do that and I never have a decal in the clear problem. As for the "Clearing Decals are not 1:1, issue. Well I do not get into that one. They are models and it looks better and I never worry about my decals coming of later. It has happened to me. Also these are my models and it is how I like to build them. So I am NOT wrong. Crowe-T I will post those pics on another thread for you.

Here are the differences between the two.

So you are doing the MP car from the 76 U.S. Nats? (It also ran SS/A) That will work. Having the decal for the door is what is the most improtant to me. I can paint the red "Strobe" striping on the earlier SS/A car. I can use that red stripe decal on another SS Dart model. I am planning on getting a few sets and also the set for the Road Runner because I would like to do all of the Mancini Racing Yellow and Red "Gratiot" cars. That is good to hear about your printing. I do not want to bag on alps printed decals. It was nice when they were around. They do have thier place. But I would rather not have Alps decals. I have see some done that are awesome and I have seen some that are not even as good as what I do on my ink jet. Thanks and I will be keeping an eye on your web site. Matt