sjordan2

If you open a free account at photobucket.com for storing your images, you don't have to worry about image size. When you paste the photobucket IMG link into your post, it will be automatically downsized.

We have a winner! Jon is correct, according to Marvin Meit at modelmotorcars.com: "Poker...like the game!" MM (Actually, Harry told me that a couple of years ago but I forgot)

Actually, the company was Italian, so it would probably be closer to poke-air, with no stress on a syllable. But I don't know the origin of the name. I'll check with scalemotorcars.com.

There are several large-scale RC cars out there with nice bodies that present opportunities for skilled modelers to detail, such as the 1/16 Mercedes SLR McLaren and the 1/14 Aston Martin DBS. There's also a 1/10 RC Aston with a nice interior. http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-18-Toyota-Rav4-Rav-4-Silver-Dealer-Ed-/260810617854

Makes sense. Here's another angle on it - advance the video to 3:09 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=44KjOhNMhGc&feature=related

A Japanese sushi chef once told me that the best way to go on pronouncing Japanese words is to not put a stress on any syllable. It should all be pronounced flat.

Here's one that I'd like to see how many variations we get: POCHER.

Both good suggestions, which I've considered, but have no experience with at all. Maybe I'll experiment with pencil first, then watercolor. It's very unusual in our hobby to want to keep a molded color, but this one is the perfect color and the smooth, shiny finish is very realistic and prevents paint build-up (and keeps me from messing up the build). Mike, I've also got the necessary Micron equipment and I'll experiment with that. This is for the Jo-Han 1/25 Mercedes 500K coupe, which will be my first kit in this small scale since the last one I built in 1974 - I've been devoted to 1/12 and 1/16 since then, but I really want to make this a nice model. I'm not scared about opening doors and adding hinges in large scales, but I won't even attempt that in this small scale. This kit makes me more appreciative than ever of the skills of our members who build in 1/24-1/25 regularly. Thanks, guys.

The title pretty much describes it EXCEPT I really need to darken door and other panel lines on bare polished plastic, because I don't want to change the molded color. I understand the advantages of doing panel washes before painting, but I haven't seen this issue addressed. The factory panel scribing is lighter than the deep plum color of the body. Tips, warnings, etc?

A. Beautiful paint. B. Welcome aboard as a moderator.

VW's Up!, their version of a Smart car, is slated for production soon, and now they've introduced a beach concept version (the Buggy Up!) that looks pretty cool. http://www.ultimatecarpage.com/car/4957/Volkswagen-Buggy-Up-Concept.html

I hate it when that happens.

Pretty funny, ^. But it's there now.

Basic 2010 Mustang codes and color chart: http://www.stage3mot...ng_paint_codes/ http://autos.yahoo.c...upe/colors.html Shelby chart: http://autos.yahoo.com/ford/shelby-gt500/2010/coupe/colors.html You're fast. It took me 15 seconds.

Just when you thought you were getting tired of seeing General Lees...

Which technique did you use for darkening the panel lines? Did you do it before or after painting?

I also would like to know about baking the paint. And what did you use to strip the original paint?

Just awesome. What talent.

(hail damage) But it's a nice job anyway.

Very, very nice. Excellent detail and craftsmanship, plus a nice sense of humor.

Nice job. But the B pillar center post wouldn't be chrome anyway - would it?

EEEEK! Sacrilege! But cool sacrilege, with awesome paint and detail. I was wondering when someone would see the rod potential of this kit. (I would have put a 32 Ford grille on it.)

From your college days? You're still using flash powder and glass negatives? Or at least a Speed Graphic?

Coming along great. My family had a '55 New Yorker sedan for several years, and I'll definitely be getting one of these, which I'll probably paint in the same metallic green with white roof color scheme. A couple of questions: • Will the taillights be separate chrome pieces? The chrome parts in the test shots are sort of a creamy white, but the taillights aren't (though the tape on them indicates they're separate ). • It may just be the test shot not showing depth in detail, but to my eyes the grille chrome looks a bit thick overall compared to this... • And will the kit have the Chrysler name molded on the nose?

GRATITUDE TO DAVE ZINN. Thanks again, Dave. I put the parts in a Ziploc, bathed in Dawn Power Dissolver, and it worked like a charm in less than 2 days. A couple of remaining areas went away with an application of Meguiar's Scratch-X, and the parts now are a perfect match for the unpainted main body shell. I see that Meguiar's has just introduced a restorer for plastic dash parts, and I'll have to look into that.