sjordan2

I do what Crazy Ed suggested, and it works fine for me. Depending on how your camera works, you can shoot the picture wider so the car is smaller in the frame. Then crop in tighter on that image using a photo editing tool.

You can get generic gauge decals here. There used to be a wider variety at other sites that seem to have disappeared. http://www.ecsvr.com....asp?Search=Yes http://www.stradaspo...ch_field=gauges http://modelcargarage.com/store/pc/viewcategories.asp?idCategory=20&pageStyle=P

Good one, Harry. The one puzzling bit is that there's no spyder script on the upper front fender, which is present on the high-end models I know of, and most 1:1 survivors. But I agree with Andrew on the panel gap, plus a couple of other observations. Model.

A couple of years ago, there was a member of the Scale Auto forum (Will, screen name wehf) who was a British college student. He loved to deal with building the most run-of-the-mill British and European cars you could find - the everyday, nondescript cars that were utterly charming and which you don't see every day as models. I'd love to see more of this stuff. But one I really want to see is an early 50s Sunbeam as seen in "To Catch a Thief."

You're probably hot for a '52 Humber.

According to Snyder's Antique Auto Parts, gray was original on the early T's, and white/gray tires persisted into the teens on many cars. Wikipedia: Early automobile tires were made entirely of natural white rubber. However, the white rubber did not offer sufficient traction and endurance, so carbon black was added to the rubber used for the treads. Using carbon black only in the tread produced tires with inner and outer sidewalls of white rubber. Later, entirely black tires became available, the still extant white sidewalls being covered with a somewhat thin, black colored layer of rubber. Should a black sidewall tire have been severely scuffed against a curb, the underlying white rubber would be revealed; it is in a similar manner that raised white letter (RWL) tires are made.

www.firefox.com It's free.

This is my first attempt at doing things this way, and as the title states, is it better to paint or add BMF trim before or after polishing the body? I will polish the body first with Meguiare's Scratch-X, then Novus or MicroMesh.

Just outstanding in every way. What brand is the Sunfire Yellow paint?

This gave me a great big smile for its quality and humor. I never thought I'd ask this on a car forum but...what did you use for the dog pee?

So..today is the Day of Judgment?

Your browser might be stuck with continuing to replicate some kind of glitch. One thing you might try is to go to your browser preferences and clear the cache.

I wish the horse was dead, but apparently it isn't.

Sorry, Cruz, but I don't get your point. My comment was based on the fact that I had a thread on exactly this point, which was not appreciated. What is the difference between my thread and this one, and why am I being criticized for bringing this up? Please elaborate.

In the past year, I posted a thread that simply asked everybody to please be civil to each other, and I said it in a very positive way. It resulted in so many nasty responses that the topic was locked. To this day, I don't understand why, though someone said I was calling the kettle black because I supposedly had once accused someone of being a "talentless hack," which I never said about anyone, and I have never criticized anyone's building capabilities. I would have given you a link to that thread, but this forum's search function is useless. Just search "civil" and see what you find.

As the resident spelling Nazi, you should know there are two "b"s in "Slobbovia."

Say whaaa...?? A 2009 Maybach? 1:1?

Here's Alex Kustov's review of the kit and a detailed build journal. It's one of his best builds, and was the subject of a lengthy magazine story a few years ago - (Scale Auto's 2005 Contest Cars special edition). http://www.italianho...Miura/miura.htm

Many thanks, Dave. I was hoping you would respond to this post. I did the Easy-Of method in a glad plastic tub with no results, so I'll try the Ziploc route this time.

Stripping my Mercedes, Part Deux: I am now stocked up on Dawn Power Dissolver and Simple Green. Do I spray either of them on, or submerge them? How long do I leave them on the part? Thanks.

You only vote on Real or Model. This is Auto ID, where you PM Harry with your identification of the car year, make and model. (Hint: It's real.)

I think that depended on which trim version you got, like the LE or ES upgrades. If this is the Lindberg kit, it shows what you describe, but other 1:1 Grand Caravans from about 1996 are shown in all body color, or sometimes with just a darker side molding. So strictly speaking, the bumpers should be as you say or in body color. In any case, this is a really nice build.

I think Dawn Power Dissolver will be the next step. So far, I've done 3 1/2 days with Purple Power, overnight with blue label Easy Off (I know, everyone recommends yellow label), another overnight with 90% alcohol, and a wipe-down with Ronsonol lighter fluid, followed immediately by a wash with dishwashing liquid. A little more progress each time, but this is one stubborn bugger. I have no idea what paint the original builder used, but I'm just now starting to get through the primer.

Another fun, beautifully made original. (Those aliens really know how to hold a tight machine gun pattern)

Just beautiful. A stunning jaw-dropper.