sjordan2

Any progress?

Beautiful work. Love seeing stock kits.

Just spectacular. You say the kit has been completed -- do you have a link to the finished project?

This is a VERY tough one, especially based on the fact that there is little paint/finish variation between the component assemblies -- forks and frame look the same, basic engine parts look the same with another finish, cylinders look the same as each other. But the tires are perfect, so I'll go with real.

Just beautiful, Geoff. No one can do this car like you do.

If a prerecorded engine sound gives accurate feedback regarding engine performance to the driver of an otherwise silent car, I'm all for it. The worst-performing cars in forever have been extremely weak in driver feedback, including every Corvette (and most US cars) made before 1992. Having had a number of turns behind the wheel of a C1, C2 and C3, I always experienced vague steering, ridiculous body roll and sloppy braking. My 1993 Corvette coupe was the first one I ever considered buying and didn't feel embarrassed about owning after many years of driving European performance cars. The sad part was that it was way too quiet. All of which goes to driver feedback and control.

For great tips on painting and detailing this kind of car, check Harry P's build of the 1/16. Geoff also did an excellent job on the kit you're building. http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=85253&page=1

Yes, the pin is longer than the door panel when the door handle is in a certain position -- the pin fits in a hole on the interior door sill to lock the door in place. You have to open and close the handle. Take a look at the instructions and wait until you're ready to put the interior door panel in place until you put in the door handle. The door handle makes the pin go up and down when the interior and exterior panels are in place, because they have parts that mate and hold the door handle in the proper position.

You might want to wait a bit before you do anything to this door pin. The next challenge for door fit will be to see how it looks after you add the hinges and door lifts. Meanwhile, I'd try a test fit on the other door handle, this time with the interior panel in place. I can't tell what the problem is with this one from the photo.

It would be great if you took some outdoor shots. These are very dark and hard to analyze.

The door fit looks really good. (PS -- No, those weren't my kits in the pictures I posted. They're part of my research on the 1:1 car and various kits.) As to the clear coat, the doors look shinier than the rest of the body. Does it look this way to the eye?

Pretty cool. But that's bad flash photography and it would be good to see some outside shots.

The reserve is what is mentioned in the listing. But the price is 2 - 3 million out of the ballpark, and I think this is a phony listing. A car like this would never be listed on eBay.

Another thing to consider on this kit is that the front wheels come way too far inside the wheel well, probably because of the working steering. You'll need to add spacers.

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My inkjet printer works just fine, and it's a simple HP Photosmart, nothing fancy. You'll have to print out the artwork to the proper scale. You might want to add a bit of sharpness. [url=http://s827.photobucket.com/user/sjordan47/media/Mercedes%20300%20SL/Picture74_zpsc7398266.png.html][/ The only ones you can see on the kit are: Cam cover --"Attention! Achtung!" and "Caution" Water tank --"Attention! High Pressure Cooling System" with "Important! Use cover with No. '80' only" just under it. Oil tank -- "Oil Level" (FYI, if you're wondering where the dipstick should be, it's attached inside the oil tank cap.) Refer to Gullwing engine photos, not roadster, for placement. These are all the same scale; you'll need to print them out so Achtung! is about 1/4" wide.

PS: as long as you're into painting, I would point out that everything on the inside of the body shell should be matte black - except for the visible exterior parts of the wheel wells behind the wheels, which should be body color. Also, if you're going to spend this much time and effort on making this great, I seriously hope you're going to fix the fender body seams, especially between the headlights and the grille. Further, if you're going to work on making an accurate engine set-up, I can send you correct art that you can make decals or stickers for the cam cover, water tank and oil tank.

Nope, it's not molded onto the kit bumper. I've got the same kit right beside me to refer to. I'll have to either find a shot in my files or scan one. EDIT: It's the line (seal)where the upright portion (not present on all Gullwings) is attached to the horizontal bumper. The seal is on both sides; I'm guessing that it's only there for cosmetic reasons to hide the gap.

"Is anyone onboard a pilot?" http://www.cnn.com/2014/06/03/travel/737-emergency-pilot/index.html?hpt=hp_t2

Sometimes I find gluebombs or slightly messed-up built versions of kits on eBay.

Did you actually put the seals around the uprights on the bumper? I've never seen another modeler do that.

Chris Craft made cars?

Incredibly slick. Superbly clean and detailed.

Very cool.