sjordan2

1. The main thing wrong with the grille is that the nose star (grille barrel) sticks out way too far. You can try to cut out the barrel and move it backward. 2. As to the way the windshield and all chrome fits for the glass (mounted from the inside of the body), remember that the real car has very prominent black seals around all the window chrome, so you could just put a piece of black wire around the outer edges, which would fill it in and be accurate. By the way, the shape of the cut-out on the door window is good, but the window chrome part is not –– like the windshield and back glass, it is too small for the car and makes it look bad. It would be good if you could find a way to keep the door window openings the way they are, and create chrome that fits on the outside of the door windows, instead of the kit's chrome that is fitted from the inside. You could cut out the proper trim shape from a styrene sheet, paint it with Alclad, and place it on top of the door.

For painting the louvers on the side, I would paint them twice -- before and after gluing them to the body, so you cover all the nooks and crannies.

Pre-auction estimate: around $8 million. Can you imagine what his 275 NART spyder might have fetched if it hadn't been wrecked?

Yes, it's 1/16, and if there is a custom-made 1/12 anywhere, $20 ain't gonna buy it.

Your bodywork is superb on the very uneven surfaces of this kit. Question: Why did you paint the entire vent grille on the cowling? The top bars need to be chrome.

For Model A kits, you pretty much have to go 1/16 Minicraft. They made several different 1931 versions in stock and custom issues -- Roadster, 2-door sedan, highboy, delivery van, etc. http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odkw=1%2F16&_sop=10&_osacat=2580&_from=R10&_pcats=1188%2C220&_armrs=1&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313.TR12.TRC2.A0.H0.X1%2F16+Model+A&_nkw=1%2F16+Model+A&_sacat=2580

Great stuff. Nice Maserati shots.

Looking awesome. I would only suggest that out of the 4 Alfas I've owned, the valve cover was a lighter aluminum color like the block. You have probably seen some black valve covers, but those are only on over-restored cars.

Of course, it would be interesting to know how many people have been lured to buy a $50 Rolex, Mont Blanc pen or Vuitton bag. (Problem is, I can't find any kind of refill for my $17 Mont Blanc pen, a perfect reproduction). All made guess where? These only get nabbed on occasional raids, but you can still easily get them at street vendors in NYC. Counterfeiting is everywhere, in every desirable product line.

Ferrari has most definitely actively prosecuted infringements. The Daytona Spyder Miami Vice 1:1 no longer sports a Ferrari badge, or can be identified as even a F****** replica on eBay, and the Ostermeier GTO is gone because of that. Others have been scared off because they are so litigious.

A documentary like "Senna" can't be manipulated as much in story or cinematography, for dramatic effect, like a scripted film such as "Le Mans" or "Grand Prix." So, that's more of a challenge to deal with human drama, but it's still better. The producer spent years accumulating the footage and the interviews and editing it. That, and, yes, the fact that it's real, is what makes "Senna" better than other documentaries or fictional racing movies. It still has personal conflict and character development. The only real technological advance in any of the earlier racing movies was in "Grand Prix," with the pioneering use of radio-controlled cameras mounted on the cars -- no CGI, as in "Rush," plus typical oldtime special effects like cables spinning cars around and explosions. "Senna" is of course a movie, and a beautifully crafted one (and also featuring on-board cameras as pioneered in "Grand Prix" and used in all modern live race coverage). BTW, several years ago a Hollywood version of Senna's career was planned, starring Raul Julia, but it never got off the ground.

Though not of interest to me, I think those who have mentioned pick-ups are onto something. If you watch the auction shows like Mecum and Barrett-Jackson, there seems to be a rapidly growing interest among collectors and Boomers in 30s-50s trucks.

Depends on what you're going for. This example is a left-hand drive American version featuring American preferences for whitewalls and polished wheels. Interestingly enough, the American version chassis and engine were essentially mirror images in terms of chassis layout and engine set-up. Even the carburetor design was reversed.

True. But the best racing scenes in any movie are in the Senna documentary, which has more heart and drama than any scripted racing movie. "Le Mans" is totally hollow as any kind of movie.

Great racing movie. Too bad they forget to include an interesting story. I always thought this was a tax write-off allowing McQueen to pursue his racing interests. Despite this criticism, I view it repeatedly.

Watch out for 2nd gear -- the synchronizers have a tendency to go out.

Watching your models is sort of like walking through the Louvre (...*yawn*... another masterpiece).

Vote #2 for blackwalls. Will the insides of the fenders be body color?

The stresses on this 1/12 kit work a little differently from the 1/16, in that the plastic for both the doors and the interior panels are larger and slightly thicker, and getting the bottom part to fit properly is the biggest problem. Sanding down the inside edges of the doors might help a little for a closer fit, but I haven't gotten to that point yet. That's one of the biggest reasons why I haven't finished the kit.

I've never found a Gullwing kit with a particularly good door fit - most of these kits are decades old. You could try soaking the doors in hot water (not boiling). You could try a test fit with the interior door panels in place, which may affect the outer doors. Also, the door handle/lock actually works and closes the door in a slot in the door sill; (however, the parts are plastic and that might create a bit too much stress).

Unbelievable. Are these from kits or hand-built?

Anyway, notwithstanding some carping, this tutorial on fixing the notorious body seam on the 1/8 XK-E may be helpful in fixing the fender seam on the Gullwing: http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=64075

I assume you're talking about me. I have made three small suggestions about improving major kit errors, all easy to fix. Do you have this kit? Can you tell me what suggestions you find objectionable or over the top?

So, you're saying his is not an original. What is the builder source? Factory Five? Superformance? Other?

When the engine is mounted, it tilts over to the left. The fuel injection system is virtually invisible at that point, and I wouldn't bother with it - especially adding the injector lines - (except to feel satisfied with knowing it's there). With the belly pan in place, especially since it's molded on, you can't even see it from the underside.