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Bill Eh?

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  1. Bill Eh?
    The width of the Potvin Blower without the Fuel Injection unit on the LHS or Backfire Valve on the RHS is 9 mm. The space between the frame rails is 19 mm. This means the width of both the Fuel Injection unit and Backfire Valve can only be 4 mm. This allows a gap of 1 mm between the frame and each of these units. I made and added a 0.75 mm mounting plate for the Backfire Valve. The replacement Fuel Injection unit is done and measures 4 mm. I'm happier with the way this will look. No more forcing the frame rails to spread! LOL
  2. Bill Eh?
    I had my second try at doing the Oil Breathers. The first set were iffy. Cutting the various pieces to size and then attempting to glue them together was not the way to go. It was too difficult to position pieces that small. The first illustration shows what I am attempting to achieve. The two pictures shows a 4 cm length of the "L" parts glued together. I will let this set up and then attempt to saw off 3 mm wide sections. Then I will cut and glue on the 1/2 round which represents the cap. All of this will get pinned to the Valve Cover.
  3. Bill Eh?
    Thanks Peter. I took Bruce's advice and did the Scalemates thing with my Evergreen inventory. Only because I picked up 3 new packages today. Time to take a second attempt at the Valve Cover Breathers.
  4. Bill Eh?
    Thanks Carl, you're absolutely right. A small update. I tried making a pair of breathers to attach to the valve covers. They are based on eyeball proportion to reference pictures. They are okay, but I am going to try making them in a different way to see if I can do better.
  5. Bill Eh?
    Thanks Steve. I think I'll use the 1.2 as they will be easier for my eyes to work with. As you can see, this WIP is moving at the pace of molasses on a -40 day. LOL But I try to persevere. If something puzzles me, then I'll just leave the building process until I think I have an answer. I hope that by sharing my experience it will benefit others. I stripped off all of the chrome from the engine sprue. I did some cleanup and then assembled basic units like the Potvin Blower. From from front to back, the width of the dragster frame consistently measures out at 19 mm. When assembled, the Potvin unit has a width of 21 + mm. I had to force it to fit between the rails. When I did this, it caused the frame rails to bow out. I tried sanding down both sides of the Potvin unit. It now fit, but both sides looked uneven and out of square. I took a saw to both sides and removed them. I am going to try constructing my own from more styrene strip and rod. More to come....
  6. Bill Eh?
    A small update. The idea of knock-offs for the rear wheels did not appeal to me. Please correct me if my interpretation is wrong. Reference pictures seem to show a circular metal plate, through which the five lug nuts pass. I have tried to recreate this with sheet styrene. The one on the left is superior to the one on the right. I think I will take a try at making another one. To replicate the lug nuts, Wave has some with widths of 1.0, 1.2, 1.6 and 2.0 mm. Across the nut, these would scale out to 1", 1 3/16", 1 9/16" and 2". Which would be the best choice? I'm leaning towards the 1.0 mm, but I'm just not sure.
  7. Bill Eh?
    I'm obsessing, which is good and bad. Good in that it helps me build a better model. Bad in that in the past it has led to shelving a project. Time for me to stop obsessing and just keep moving forward.
  8. Bill Eh?
    Thanks Jim, that sounds like a plan. Shots of the original car show the ignition wires coming out horizontally from the back. This would be harder for me to replicate. The pics of the newer car (clone?), show the the wires coming vertically out of the top. This design I could manage. If I cut the top off the magneto and replaced it with brass tubing, I think all the wires would fit, as the wall thickness of brass is much less than that of styrene. When I started this, I had no idea of what a rabbit hole I was entering!
  9. Bill Eh?
    Moving forward with my Mooneyes required some additional Evergreen supplies. I started cutting pieces from my package of Ignition Wire w/Boot, from Gofer Racing, only to discover that only about 2' of wire are included. The cost from my LHS was around $6. So I did some measuring and discovered that 26 gauge wire is close in diameter. I found a local source that sold spools of 26 guage black coloured copper, 24 yds for $2.99. That will last me a long time.
  10. Bill Eh?
    That makes sense Mark. I think I'll start by making one, just to learn the technique. If I'm happy I'll make four more, two for my Mooneyes and two to attempt casting. Since the Mooneyes is my first go at scratch building, why not expand my modelling skills a little more.
  11. Bill Eh?
    I'm thinking of using two pieces of 1 mm by 2.5 mm styrene strip to make the legs, joined by a piece 1 mm 1/4 round to form the elbow.
  12. Bill Eh?
    Thanks for looking into it Bill.
  13. Bill Eh?
    Yes Bill, that is what I was referring to. If push come to shove, I could make them using some Evergreen stock.
  14. Bill Eh?
    A lot of the reference pictures for the Mooneyes, show the engine with angled valve cover breathers. I don't think these are included with the kit. What might be a good source? Thanks for any ideas.
  15. Bill Eh?
    I always look forward to your airbrush acquisitions. You find the most unique and interesting airbrushes. Most of the brand names are new to me!
  16. Bill Eh?
    Thanks Carl Thanks, and will do Jim. I finally completed, what I have been putting off, cleaning up all of the parts. I also drilled out the magneto. The largest hole I could manage was 1.25 mm. Sadly this is not quite large enough to hold a bundle of 8 ignition wires. I might have a work around though. The major issue I discovered involved my frame modification. In my third post, I showed where I moved a vertical tube of the frame, rearward on both sides. Guess what now lines up perfectly with the opening for the Pitman Arm? This will now take a serious rethink.
  17. Bill Eh?
    Now that is a beauty Jim. The colour cup and its opening are quite uniquely shaped. The whole brush is a work of art. A great addition to your airbrush family.
  18. Bill Eh?
    Replacement Wishbone attachment brace glued to the bottom of the crossmember.
  19. Bill Eh?
    I glued the rectangular moon tank supports onto the frame cross member. Since the gluing surface was not large, I will let these set up for a while, before I attempt to cut off the joining rod. I used regular Tamiya cement applied with a toothpick. The second shot is just a comparison with the kit part. Question for you guys. Am I doing too many updates with too little progress? I'm new to this WIP thread process.
  20. Bill Eh?
    I jump around a lot on this build. I looked at the engine components and decided to open up the air intakes on the fuel injection unit. I used a drill bit to find the size of the molded opening, which was about 1.1 mm. I then increased the size up to just under 2.2 mm. At that point, I decided not to press my luck by going any larger. That would normally have been what I would do, and result in another kit going to the shelf of doom. Although not a true scale wall thickness, I think it looks a lot better. The best non-styrene option would have been to use either brass or aluminum tube. Engineering that would have been way beyond my skill set!
  21. Bill Eh?
    Thanks Jim. I won't throw away the Vallejo putty, as you said it has its uses. Hopefully I will be a little wiser in my choice of putty use.
  22. Bill Eh?
    I can see a lot of discussions taking place, behind closed doors re the stewardship of races in the coming season. LOL
  23. Bill Eh?
    Jim, I agree with you. But the stewards did the same kind of tweaking of the rules when Hamilton's Mercedes had all four tires leave the track at turn 6 of lap 1. Was he required to give the place back, as normally would be the case? No, creative interpretation,
  24. Bill Eh?
    Thanks Peter. After sanding down all of the body seams, I was disappointed with the results of the Vallejo putty. I redid all of them with Tamiya putty along with the moon tank. Both halves of the moon tank slightly taper from the outer portion to the centre where they join. This gives a valley-like appearance around the centre of the tank. LOL
  25. Bill Eh?
    You question the fairness of Latifi crashing, or the fact that a Safetry Car was deployed to cleanup the debris? LOL
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