-
Posts
1,250 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Everything posted by Bill Eh?
-
The pirate kits were branded LEE, which were direct rip offs. The Ben Hobby were legitimate. Tamiya attempted to sell into the the China market by using this branding. Great score Dan. To find a finished model you just need to look for finished Tamiya 936s.
- 39,159 replies
-
- johan
- glue bombs
-
(and 1 more)
Tagged with:
-
Curtis, with the number of bottles purchased, you must have achieved the free shipping to Canada threshold! LOL A great addition to your paint inventory!
- 39,159 replies
-
- johan
- glue bombs
-
(and 1 more)
Tagged with:
-
Wow Jim, having two Ravens is quite the achievement! It is hard for me to tell, but are they a side-feed or a siphon-feed design? Getting two Paasche brushes with close to side-by-side numbers is probably a once in a lifetime purchase. I'm thinking you have read this already, but I included a link to the brief history description on Paasche's website. It seems they were located in Chicago proper when the company first started. These two brushes must be from those beginnings. https://www.paascheairbrush.com/
- 39,159 replies
-
- johan
- glue bombs
-
(and 1 more)
Tagged with:
-
Don't let the erroneous 1/24 scale put you off. The C1 transkit is for Revell's 1/25 2009 Challenger. Chris Hales did not always get the scale reference correct. I think it is partially, that being from the UK, he is used to most car kits being of 1/24 scale.
- 39,159 replies
-
- johan
- glue bombs
-
(and 1 more)
Tagged with:
-
Thanks Guido Paul, thanks for your input. A friend recommended the same thing. K & S Engineering sells a multi-pack of varied diameter pieces of tubing. I need to purchase that. On a modelers Zoom meeting last week, I mentioned my predicament. A good friend responded during the meeting by taking his punch set, and making multiple 6.9 mm disks from 0.5 mm black styrene. He mailed them to me and they arrived four days later. He also punched out numerous in scale, hex shapes for the nuts with tiny styrene dots to represent the bolts. They might just be a little too small for me to work with. I may have to stick with the Wave product that I purchased. Modelling friends like this are what makes this one of the best communities (besides this board of course!) to be part of. Now, I'm obsessing over how to get the nut/bolt pieces equally spaced at 72˚ apart. LOL Trying to add the pins to the exhaust headers did not work. There just wasn't enough gluing surface to attach the pins to. As an alternate method, I have glued the two left side header pieces together and the same for the right. I am going to now try remaking the header adapter piece so that it serves as a positive locator to the cylinder heads. The problem is that when you glue the two headers together, the ends that attach to the cylinder head adapters, do not form a straight line.
-
I wanted to use the kit exhaust headers, so I have attempted to add pins to help with gluing them to the flanges.
-
Lots and lots of Ignition Wire. I was very happy to find the initial spool. I decided to order a dozen more to share with friends. Each has 24 yards of 26 guage spooled goodness!
- 39,159 replies
-
- johan
- glue bombs
-
(and 1 more)
Tagged with:
-
Another beauty Jim. It's astounding to find a quality piece like this, in unused condition.
- 39,159 replies
-
- johan
- glue bombs
-
(and 1 more)
Tagged with:
-
The width of the Potvin Blower without the Fuel Injection unit on the LHS or Backfire Valve on the RHS is 9 mm. The space between the frame rails is 19 mm. This means the width of both the Fuel Injection unit and Backfire Valve can only be 4 mm. This allows a gap of 1 mm between the frame and each of these units. I made and added a 0.75 mm mounting plate for the Backfire Valve. The replacement Fuel Injection unit is done and measures 4 mm. I'm happier with the way this will look. No more forcing the frame rails to spread! LOL
-
I had my second try at doing the Oil Breathers. The first set were iffy. Cutting the various pieces to size and then attempting to glue them together was not the way to go. It was too difficult to position pieces that small. The first illustration shows what I am attempting to achieve. The two pictures shows a 4 cm length of the "L" parts glued together. I will let this set up and then attempt to saw off 3 mm wide sections. Then I will cut and glue on the 1/2 round which represents the cap. All of this will get pinned to the Valve Cover.
-
Thanks Peter. I took Bruce's advice and did the Scalemates thing with my Evergreen inventory. Only because I picked up 3 new packages today. Time to take a second attempt at the Valve Cover Breathers.
-
Thanks Carl, you're absolutely right. A small update. I tried making a pair of breathers to attach to the valve covers. They are based on eyeball proportion to reference pictures. They are okay, but I am going to try making them in a different way to see if I can do better.
-
Thanks Steve. I think I'll use the 1.2 as they will be easier for my eyes to work with. As you can see, this WIP is moving at the pace of molasses on a -40 day. LOL But I try to persevere. If something puzzles me, then I'll just leave the building process until I think I have an answer. I hope that by sharing my experience it will benefit others. I stripped off all of the chrome from the engine sprue. I did some cleanup and then assembled basic units like the Potvin Blower. From from front to back, the width of the dragster frame consistently measures out at 19 mm. When assembled, the Potvin unit has a width of 21 + mm. I had to force it to fit between the rails. When I did this, it caused the frame rails to bow out. I tried sanding down both sides of the Potvin unit. It now fit, but both sides looked uneven and out of square. I took a saw to both sides and removed them. I am going to try constructing my own from more styrene strip and rod. More to come....
-
A small update. The idea of knock-offs for the rear wheels did not appeal to me. Please correct me if my interpretation is wrong. Reference pictures seem to show a circular metal plate, through which the five lug nuts pass. I have tried to recreate this with sheet styrene. The one on the left is superior to the one on the right. I think I will take a try at making another one. To replicate the lug nuts, Wave has some with widths of 1.0, 1.2, 1.6 and 2.0 mm. Across the nut, these would scale out to 1", 1 3/16", 1 9/16" and 2". Which would be the best choice? I'm leaning towards the 1.0 mm, but I'm just not sure.
-
I'm obsessing, which is good and bad. Good in that it helps me build a better model. Bad in that in the past it has led to shelving a project. Time for me to stop obsessing and just keep moving forward.
-
Thanks Jim, that sounds like a plan. Shots of the original car show the ignition wires coming out horizontally from the back. This would be harder for me to replicate. The pics of the newer car (clone?), show the the wires coming vertically out of the top. This design I could manage. If I cut the top off the magneto and replaced it with brass tubing, I think all the wires would fit, as the wall thickness of brass is much less than that of styrene. When I started this, I had no idea of what a rabbit hole I was entering!
-
Moving forward with my Mooneyes required some additional Evergreen supplies. I started cutting pieces from my package of Ignition Wire w/Boot, from Gofer Racing, only to discover that only about 2' of wire are included. The cost from my LHS was around $6. So I did some measuring and discovered that 26 gauge wire is close in diameter. I found a local source that sold spools of 26 guage black coloured copper, 24 yds for $2.99. That will last me a long time.
- 39,159 replies
-
- johan
- glue bombs
-
(and 1 more)
Tagged with:
-
That makes sense Mark. I think I'll start by making one, just to learn the technique. If I'm happy I'll make four more, two for my Mooneyes and two to attempt casting. Since the Mooneyes is my first go at scratch building, why not expand my modelling skills a little more.
- 7 replies
-
- mooneyes
- v-cvr breather
-
(and 1 more)
Tagged with:
-
I'm thinking of using two pieces of 1 mm by 2.5 mm styrene strip to make the legs, joined by a piece 1 mm 1/4 round to form the elbow.
- 7 replies
-
- mooneyes
- v-cvr breather
-
(and 1 more)
Tagged with:
-
Yes Bill, that is what I was referring to. If push come to shove, I could make them using some Evergreen stock.
- 7 replies
-
- mooneyes
- v-cvr breather
-
(and 1 more)
Tagged with:
-
A lot of the reference pictures for the Mooneyes, show the engine with angled valve cover breathers. I don't think these are included with the kit. What might be a good source? Thanks for any ideas.
- 7 replies
-
- mooneyes
- v-cvr breather
-
(and 1 more)
Tagged with:
-
I always look forward to your airbrush acquisitions. You find the most unique and interesting airbrushes. Most of the brand names are new to me!
- 39,159 replies
-
- johan
- glue bombs
-
(and 1 more)
Tagged with:
-
Thanks Carl Thanks, and will do Jim. I finally completed, what I have been putting off, cleaning up all of the parts. I also drilled out the magneto. The largest hole I could manage was 1.25 mm. Sadly this is not quite large enough to hold a bundle of 8 ignition wires. I might have a work around though. The major issue I discovered involved my frame modification. In my third post, I showed where I moved a vertical tube of the frame, rearward on both sides. Guess what now lines up perfectly with the opening for the Pitman Arm? This will now take a serious rethink.
-
Now that is a beauty Jim. The colour cup and its opening are quite uniquely shaped. The whole brush is a work of art. A great addition to your airbrush family.
- 39,159 replies
-
- 1
-
-
- johan
- glue bombs
-
(and 1 more)
Tagged with: