Bill Eh?
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Everything posted by Bill Eh?
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I'm obsessing, which is good and bad. Good in that it helps me build a better model. Bad in that in the past it has led to shelving a project. Time for me to stop obsessing and just keep moving forward.
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Thanks Jim, that sounds like a plan. Shots of the original car show the ignition wires coming out horizontally from the back. This would be harder for me to replicate. The pics of the newer car (clone?), show the the wires coming vertically out of the top. This design I could manage. If I cut the top off the magneto and replaced it with brass tubing, I think all the wires would fit, as the wall thickness of brass is much less than that of styrene. When I started this, I had no idea of what a rabbit hole I was entering!
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Moving forward with my Mooneyes required some additional Evergreen supplies. I started cutting pieces from my package of Ignition Wire w/Boot, from Gofer Racing, only to discover that only about 2' of wire are included. The cost from my LHS was around $6. So I did some measuring and discovered that 26 gauge wire is close in diameter. I found a local source that sold spools of 26 guage black coloured copper, 24 yds for $2.99. That will last me a long time.
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That makes sense Mark. I think I'll start by making one, just to learn the technique. If I'm happy I'll make four more, two for my Mooneyes and two to attempt casting. Since the Mooneyes is my first go at scratch building, why not expand my modelling skills a little more.
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I'm thinking of using two pieces of 1 mm by 2.5 mm styrene strip to make the legs, joined by a piece 1 mm 1/4 round to form the elbow.
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Thanks for looking into it Bill.
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Yes Bill, that is what I was referring to. If push come to shove, I could make them using some Evergreen stock.
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A lot of the reference pictures for the Mooneyes, show the engine with angled valve cover breathers. I don't think these are included with the kit. What might be a good source? Thanks for any ideas.
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I always look forward to your airbrush acquisitions. You find the most unique and interesting airbrushes. Most of the brand names are new to me!
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Thanks Carl Thanks, and will do Jim. I finally completed, what I have been putting off, cleaning up all of the parts. I also drilled out the magneto. The largest hole I could manage was 1.25 mm. Sadly this is not quite large enough to hold a bundle of 8 ignition wires. I might have a work around though. The major issue I discovered involved my frame modification. In my third post, I showed where I moved a vertical tube of the frame, rearward on both sides. Guess what now lines up perfectly with the opening for the Pitman Arm? This will now take a serious rethink.
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Now that is a beauty Jim. The colour cup and its opening are quite uniquely shaped. The whole brush is a work of art. A great addition to your airbrush family.
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Replacement Wishbone attachment brace glued to the bottom of the crossmember.
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I glued the rectangular moon tank supports onto the frame cross member. Since the gluing surface was not large, I will let these set up for a while, before I attempt to cut off the joining rod. I used regular Tamiya cement applied with a toothpick. The second shot is just a comparison with the kit part. Question for you guys. Am I doing too many updates with too little progress? I'm new to this WIP thread process.
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I jump around a lot on this build. I looked at the engine components and decided to open up the air intakes on the fuel injection unit. I used a drill bit to find the size of the molded opening, which was about 1.1 mm. I then increased the size up to just under 2.2 mm. At that point, I decided not to press my luck by going any larger. That would normally have been what I would do, and result in another kit going to the shelf of doom. Although not a true scale wall thickness, I think it looks a lot better. The best non-styrene option would have been to use either brass or aluminum tube. Engineering that would have been way beyond my skill set!
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Thanks Jim. I won't throw away the Vallejo putty, as you said it has its uses. Hopefully I will be a little wiser in my choice of putty use.
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I can see a lot of discussions taking place, behind closed doors re the stewardship of races in the coming season. LOL
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Jim, I agree with you. But the stewards did the same kind of tweaking of the rules when Hamilton's Mercedes had all four tires leave the track at turn 6 of lap 1. Was he required to give the place back, as normally would be the case? No, creative interpretation,
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Thanks Peter. After sanding down all of the body seams, I was disappointed with the results of the Vallejo putty. I redid all of them with Tamiya putty along with the moon tank. Both halves of the moon tank slightly taper from the outer portion to the centre where they join. This gives a valley-like appearance around the centre of the tank. LOL
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You question the fairness of Latifi crashing, or the fact that a Safetry Car was deployed to cleanup the debris? LOL
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This picture shows the distance between the legs of the moontank compared to the original part rectangular supports they are supposed to rest on. The legs would overhang on both sides. This was one of the reasons I decided to make a replacement cross member.
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When I last left off, I was stumped as to how I was going to handle a portion of the build. As previously indicated, I decided to replace the cross member which sits in the lower front portion of the frame. I went ahead and made and installed the replacement cross member. However, I did not give much thought as to how I was going to add the rectangular supports (sit on top of cross member), nor the wishbone attachment brace (sits on bottom of cross member). When predicaments like this come up, my progress tends to shut down. My main concern was how to attach both supports so that they were both parallel to each other and also level. I came up with what I hope will be a workable solution. From my measurements of the original piece, I made the two rectangular supports from styrene strip (0.75 mm x 2.5 mm x 9mm). I then glued them together with thin piece of styrene rod (10 mm long). However, when I looked at the spacing compared to the legs on the moon tank, I was not happy. So I remade them and reduced the space between them to 9mm. The wishbone attachment was far more straightforward to recreate. I'm really slow at this sort of thing, and it has taken me over 3 hours just to get this done. On another note, I was trying Vallejo Plastic Putty to fill/smooth the joints of the body panels. Never again. It would not sand well, nor leave a feathered edge. It just flaked off. This was after letting it cure for over five days! Back to tried and true Tamiya Putty.
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That's what I'm hoping for Dennis. The best laid plans and all that... LOL
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In a reference photo, I noticed the split in the body right at the level of the opening for the Pitman Arm. I will rescribe this as well as the opposite side. I hope this gives a better appearance than just gluing the top body panel in place with side panels already glued to the frame. Time will tell.
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Thanks Carl Jim, seeing your post motivated me to do the same! Thanks. Mooneyes vs. Mooneyes, wouldn't that be a sight! LOL
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I was not happy with the fit of the cross member, which glues in at the front of the frame. I made a new one. It still requires the rectangular pieces to be placed on the top for holding the moon tank, as well as the downward facing pin to attach the back of the wishbone. I learned that it takes a great deal of patience to fish-mouth 1/16" rod. The picture shows the new cross member glued in place, with the kit part right beside it. Please excuse the blue tac. More to come....
