Bill Eh?

Tom, the print looks really well done. What will you use to fill in the missing components? The hood is integral with the body, and yet the chassis is open where the engine would be located.

Bruce, might it be worth your time to reach out to Casey on the forum. After all, Forward Resin, has many offerings.

Some of the parts look to be in pretty rough shape; the dash and console. Good luck when restoring.

That is a an awesome addition to your very historical collection. I'm reasonably good at disassembly and reassembly of modern airbrushes. I would be terrified to even think about taking something like that apart for fear of ruining a part.

If in fact it is the old Miss Deal kit, I wonder why Atlantis doesn't just release it as the same. I thought that the Miss Deal kit was a fictitious livery. Would it be because Revell still has copy a copyright on this?

The lister mistook the scale as the MSRP, but took off 5¢ LOL

I am subscribed to Just Rolled In. His videos never cease to amuse me, but often have me wondering how someone can allow such situations to occur with a vehicle.

How long did you wait before spraying the TS-80?

Similar to Indycals in that there is no carrier film and each graphic has to be cut out individually. The resolution appears to be quite crisp. I'm still at the stage of removing the moulded-in exhaust from the kit. LOL

Jim, I'm not sure if you have Badman decals already. I bought mine through eBay: https://www.ebay.ca/itm/123598535625?hash=item1cc70bfbc9:g:tecAAOSwk~VcYZgO

Lifetime supply.

Based on Daniel Himmel's (Straightliner59) very helpful recommendation, I purchased some bees wax candles. I will try it on cutting blades as a lubricant, and if needed as an airbrush nozzle sealant. The amount is probably overkill, but I'm thinking that this will be a lifetime supply! LOL

I just added this to my hobby shop, or possibly grocery store shopping list. Thanks Daniel

Daniel, thanks for this additional tip. Would this apply to any saw blade be it Dremel or razor saw? I know that bee's wax can also be used to seal troublesome nozzles on airbrushes.

Thanks Dave. No matter which method I choose to cut the tube, I will definitely use a lighter to heat the tube before and during the cut. Greg, although I have a few razor saws, I have been using the saw and miter box box from UMM. I think it is time to invest in a larger miter box, like the one you have. LOL

Thanks Rancdy. That was how I first tried to make my slice. The depth of the miter box was such that I could not maintain a solid enough grip on the tube. It took a chunk out of the razor saw blade. I might try this again by placing a strip of styrene in the bottom of the miter box to raise the tube. Thanks Peter. I do have Dremel style rotary tool with cut off wheels. I will try this method as well. If I cut it correctly, it will only be 1/8" wide by 1/10" long. Thanks for the suggestion Brian. With the hardness of brass, you can see the lack of success that I had with this method. I may need to try this method again if the prior two methods don't work. Thanks to all of you for replying with solutions to my problem.

I have tried to cut a 2.5 mm slice off a 1/8" K & S brass tube. I have tried using my K & S tube cutter with no success. A friend suggested using an X-acto knife by rolling on a hard surface. In both cases the blade wandered. I have attached a pic to show what happened. So those who are familiar with and work with brass, how would you go about ding this? Any advice would be appreciated.

Something I made a couple of days ago. The "Pringles Evergreen / Plastruct / K&S organizer. I finally got around to organizing my inventory so as to make it easier to find/use. The first pic shows the way it used to be. The next pics show my inventory in a somewhat better state of organization. It is easy to add more Pringles compartments as necessary. Currently I have them organized as Strip, Rod, Tube, Miscellaneous, and Brass. As Jim King (CabDriver) has stated, you can never have too much structural styrene!

I have had this Tamiya "Electric Handy Drill" kit for ages. I'm not sure why I haven't assembled it before. The fit of the pieces was mostly good. They provide a plastic bushing for cost reasons as opposed to a metal bearing. The two halves of the drill body to not come together tightly using the self tapping screws. This I believe contributes to the noticeable wobble that you see at the tip of a drill bit when rotating. This can probably be remedied by taking out the top two self tapping screws and reinstalling with appropriate sized washers as spacers. As it stands, the drill will come in handy for repetitive drilling. But not so much for accurate drilling until the fix is done. One thing Tamiya does not tell you is that you need three or more hands for some of the assembly! LOL Installing a snap ring at one stage, had me ready to test and see if the kit contacting the wall would improve my my building experience or at least my mood.

That should work. The eBay link that Brian provided, is to a seller who has parted out that same Revell '76 Gran Torino kit.

LOL, I know what you mean about "so many kits". I lucked out with my purchase as there was almost no warpage in the the usual suspect parts.

I can certainly understand leaning that way in a purchase decision. One other factor to consider is that this kit was a joint project of Model King ( Dave Burket ). It may or may not see another production run.

That looks absolutely perfect. Well done.

Last Wednesday I purchased an Iwata/NEO airbrush starter set through KiJiJi. It wasn't until I got home that I realized the filter cover on the spray out pot was missing. I didn't think much of it, as I was sure there would be an available part number for my missing part. Well, no such luck. These spray out pots now retail for close to $40. I did want to use it, but I didn't want to buy another one just for the missing part, so my solution was to make my own.