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Bill Eh?

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Everything posted by Bill Eh?

  1. I confess that I know nothing about Star Wars ships, but the weathering on this looks convincing.
  2. Sorry Ismael and fellow forum readers.
  3. To post that you own / bought something that has never existed is not cool. Something that is incorrectly packaged has no bearing on the design / structure of the product.
  4. Why do you do post inaccurate, untrue information like this? The NEO has never had a floating design nozzle. It was designed by Iwata as an entry level airbrush, to fill in as a lower product offering.
  5. Some of your airbrush related content puzzles me. I have a made for Iwata NEO, amongst others. I have attached a pic of the brush and a pic of the nozzle. It does not have, and never has had a floating nozzle. One of the complaints about the NEO has always been the fragile nature of the NEO nozzle. Many people have experienced destroying the nozzle by over tightening it. The only brushes in the Iwata line that have floating, self-centering nozzles are the Eclipse line.
  6. Hi Ismael, I'm definitely not an engineer, and I also love to take things apart... especially airbrushes. Taking them apart and putting them back together is the first order of business after purchasing a new one. Doing this repeatedly gives me a better understanding of the airbrush's workings and the confidence to do a complete tear down for deep cleaning (even the needle packing or air valve!).
  7. I read your original post. With no parts available, how did you resurrect it? Was it a matter of disassembling and deep cleaning? The airbrush that got me started was a combination airbrush and Ni-Cad battery powered compressor from Tamiya called Spray Work.
  8. Here is the website address to use: https://gravity-colors.com/
  9. Gerry, Dancing Bear is a name new to me. I'll have to check out there offerings. I just added the link https://www.dancingbearscaledcomponents.com/
  10. I responded to another Kijiji ad! LOL. It was entitled “Airbrush Complete and Parts”. There was only a single, somewhat out of focus photo. It showed a plastic basket with some airbrush items in it: an Iwata-Medea name on a replacement parts package as well as the name Thayer and Chandler. These caught my attention enough to respond to this four-day old ad. My attached pics show what was actually included. I think that I did well with this purchase! All I know about the last pic is that these are Rapidograph components.
  11. David, it sounds like you found some great kits at Heritagecon. I have never built a NASCAR KIT, but did buy the Salvinos JR Joey Logano Mustang.
  12. I'm envious over the Aoshima and Fujimi kits
  13. If only O. Wold had believed in the power of advertising! You have probably visited the site, airbrushmuseum.com where there is some fascinating reading.
  14. Jim, so I just learned that Olaus Wold was a key designer for Thayer and Chandler, before setting out with his own company circa 1890's. to early 1900's.
  15. What can I say. Apparently you and Iwata-Medea are in disagreement as to what comes standard with their Eclipse HP-CS ?
  16. Bill, all of the Iwata Eclipse line (HP-BS, gravity, HP-SBS, side gravity, and HP-CS, gravity) come with a 0.35 mm needle / nozzle. The optional needle nozzle set for them is the 0.5 mm set. Only the Iwata Eclipse HP-BCS (syphon) comes standard with a 0.5 mm needle / nozzle.
  17. Chad, I saw your kits listed in the trade section. It immediately caught my eye, because you mentioned Japanese flat box. The Mitsubishi, Nissan and Toyota were all interesting. So were the Honda Civics. When I go to a show, I am mostly looking for Japanese kits. Even here, north of the border, you need to attend a reasonably sized show to even find vendors selling Japanese kits. If I find a vendor, but they are asking something near retail, or even higher at a collector value, I walk away. Yes, I am looking for a bargain, but not a buck or two bargain. I am looking for something that might be 20 - 30% below retail. Selling kits at a show is not typically about making money. Yes, some rare kits might actually make you some money. Most times you will only recoup some of what you paid for a kit initially. Those are just my thoughts.
  18. Jeff, your Procon Boy PS-289 is an excellent purchase. The 0.3 mm needle / nozzle is a great in between size. Small enough to do acceptable fine lines, and yet large enough to spray primer if need be. One of my favourite Youtube airbrush-related channels is Airbrush Asylum. It is worth checking out. I have a theory about the problem with your 105. If you are interested, PM me.
  19. Michael, I have purchased a bulk bundle of those melamine cleaning sponges. It never occurred to me that I could also use those as a high grit sanding medium. Thanks for that idea.
  20. Good to know that the Regdab helped lubricate the contact between the back trigger lever and the trigger shaft. I would be interested to hear how your airbrushing session goes. Fingers crossed.
  21. Dusty has provided an excellent list. I would add one more consideration. What you model could factor into who you purchase from. If the subject matter is North American factory stock, then the best choices would probably be Scale Finishes or MCW. For more current factory stock geared towards North American / European / Japanese Domestic Market sports/muscle cars then I would look towards Splash Paints or Gravity in Spain. If racing cars are your subject, then a lot of factory racing colors are available through Zero Paints or again, Gravity.
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