Farmboy

Hey Carl. Going forward, I'm hoping the build and posts will continue at a more consistent pace. Happy to have you stopping in.

....but before the engine, there are two lights that need attending to. The real machine has Kleig lights mounted on monopods. They were obviously simplified for the kit as part of the mount was attached to the suspension spring. Of all the photos I could find, none of them showed the complete light stand and it's attachment points, but I did manage to find a couple of partial shots that gave enough visual info to allow for some believable imagineering. Presenting my always-there friend, the 3/8" staple gun staple. Incidentally, I also tried small diameter solder for the next step, but the staple looked more at home. Taking a look at the real kleig light on the actual showrod you'll see a cradle affair between the light case and the stand. None on the kit part. Trying a staple as the cradle piece, it was the right size....sort of. A quick snip of both legs to get them the right length to end up on the sides of the light, and a very light squeeze...we have a cradle! Though the stand should have been separated and rebuilt with the cradle mounted between the light/stand, It was cemented to the flat portion on the bottom of the light. Hard to notice and I'm not telling anybody. And we're good to go. There will be tiny slices of small small diameter styrene rod applied to appear as the pivots....but there's more. It seems from what I could gather photo-wise that the light itself would be just too heavy to be self supporting. Then |I notice a horizontal support bolted to the side of the radiator shroud headed in the light's direction. I have yet to see where it ends up in reality, but on this build, it helps steady the Kleig. It will start at the side of the radiator shroud, squeak thru the gap between the sink and the light, and act as the support. In some small way, it probably does help on the model too. The light lenses are drying under their coat of Future or whatever name it is today. I'm using a couple of hi intensity spot lenses with a chrome center dot found in the parts box. I believe they came from a Pontiac Catalina kit but I won't swear to it. Hopefully I'll have photos of the completed light installation next post. Comments and observations welcome.

Here's the finished front section of the car. The radiator shroud is now cemented in place. I used epoxy on this piece and it'll be tomorrow before it fully cures. The radiator came from the parts box. The screen for the front of the shroud (visible in the next picture) is from my favorite source, a grease splatter screen. I've got a couple of them as the screening in one is square, the other one rectangular. And here are the water lines. I added these by cementing a slightly larger diameter piece of metal tubing directly over the holes for the taps on the underside so they would line up properly with the taps. Then the actual brass tubing pieces were bent in to an L shape, the short piece super glued to the underside of the chassis after trial fitting the long section and trimming it to the correct length. Moving front to back, I guess the engine is next. I'm keeping the HiPo 289 from the kit. I'll try to clean it up a bit adding a starter, coil, fuel pump, better pulleys, correct alternator mount and fuel injection. That's the plan right now at any rate. Comments and observations welcome.

Thanks for the kind words guys. Time marches on..

Been away a little longer than planned as Rosie, my 15 year old Dachshund died last week. Wasn't up to much. Boy, rough year. But on with the show.... I've started with the radiator shroud and sink assembly. Firstly the sink. It turned out better than I thought it would. After a bit of sanding to remove some residual ancient tube glue and prepping, it's the glistening, sterile white I hoped for. That's Tamya white primer and a coat of Krylon (the 'clean with mineral spirits' type NOT the 'clean with lacquer thinner' newer version) Clear. I did experiment with a very thin strip of black adhesive vinyl around the middle of the sink deck. Looked very 40's, but it just stood out too much and didn't relate to anything else. White it is. And here it is sitting and setting up on 5 minute epoxy (ha!). I've obviously added the taps and faucet. Note also a brassy drain surround, and, it'll show up better in another photo, but there's a drain plug sitting beside it. It's an antique white acrylic so hopefully it'll show up better in any future pics. Still to come after the epoxy dries are two brass water lines from the taps down between the axle and steering gear, disappearing under the car. Note the shroud is placed behind it for placement assistance. That's a nice leather color that started out as rattle can gold. A coat of matte clear and you get that. Neat. The shroud has also been fitted for a mesh front and a radiator. Comments and observations welcome.

Hey Noel, you're probably right about where I should have posted and if the powers that be choose to move this wip to the model cars forum I have no problem with that. Thanks for the interest and observations.

I have friends with an enviable stash of kits they'll never build...a collector hobby in itself. Again, to each his own.

Dave, to each their own, but I see it this way. I'm a biker. My wife and I have enjoyed Honda GoldWings for over 22 years and racked up beaucoup kms/miles and good times on them. But we've also seen HDs at Americade in Lake George NY that are trailered there and parked to avoid putting mileage on them as that may affect their value (?). Are they wrong? No. But I do think they're missing out.

I share your concern Gary. Like most, I have a few kits that have been in my stash for a few years -- and i hope to get to them -- but I've learned to keep myself to one build at a time, I find it much more satisfying. It also results in fewer of those rush & regret builds or unfinished kits.

Wow Gary, that's great! These kits are getting harder to find every day! Doing a wip? Glad to have you along!

Bob, Wolf, Steve, thank you guys for the good words, glad you're enjoying the build! I've got the front wheels attached and the brake lines connected to the calipers so now the rod completion should move along. Just about everything topside relates to the radiator shroud's placement so that's the next step. Comments and observations welcome

Thanks for the shout out Dennis. Life's been in the way for the past few weeks, but I should be getting in to regular building mode in a day or two.

The original plan was to drop in a set of disc brakes I dug up out of the parts box, but, as the saying goes....nothing looks more like metal than real metal. Going on that theory, I cut the calipers away and modified them to fit #6 washers that looked right at home in the front wheels. In back, I thought about using #8's, but they filled the entire wheel rim, so more #6's it is. One could take the time to spin the washers against some emery paper to leave ridges, I just didn't see the need for this build. The kit shocks were just blobs as part of the Kleig light stand. I'll leave them as part of the stand and make my own. I prepped for this earlier in the build by relocating the top shock mount 1/8"+ further ahead on the spring, then, adding a new frame mount to support the shock on the bottom. Despite the business up front, there's a substantial gap between the tire and frame and it's just beggin' for a big, fat, stumpy shock absorber. These were completely scratch built from brass and aluminum to keep in step with the brass, gold, chrome and aluminum theme. The pivot covers were made from a small gold sequin and half round chrome domes ?!! a mockup to end this post per usual. Just one Kleig light. The other one suffered the Hulk Smash syndrome while I was taking it apart. No worries, I just haven't cemented it back to together. This is a good shot showing the relocated shock mounts, and the original light stand mount on the frame. I'll be adding a horizontal brace that connects the light to the radiator shroud for stability. It looks like that is what was done on the original, but that's just a guess. Comments and observations welcome

Apologies for the delay to anyone following. Onward. As shown in the photo above, I've decided to redo the springs based on the front ones being so prominent but they only have leaf detail on one side. So here's what I did. Firstly, in the photo below, note the chassis floor has been redone and edges finished. This shows front and rear springs on the left side of the chassis with the right side springs waiting their turn. These are not the original springs I had made. I needed the practice, and these turned out better. I had originally planned the springs to carry a chrome finish but decided instead that bronze would look more at home. A little work was involved in their installation. I cut the end off of the frame that represented where the spring would have connected. I replaced that small end piece with a section of square tubing that fit the spring width, cemented it to the frame and had a home for the end of the spring. Note that nothing is secured here, it's mockup. The other spring end fit inside of a brass rectangle cut from a length I had on hand. This looks more like the 1:1 assembly. I left the top piece of the rectangle on just for insurance. The rear spring mounted similarly except that the frame end points down. Same procedure basically using the same plastic square tubing with one side removed, and another brass rectangle supporting piece for the other end. A couple of leaf banding strips were added just for visual interest. These are regular paper staples separated in pairs, bent and cut to shape and superglued to the actual spring assembly. The brass support has also been cemented to the chassis floor. Small pieces of round styrene will be added to the sides to simulate pivots. Getting better. A few detailing ideas yet to come. I haven't decided on the blower with dual carbs or an injector manifold with 8 velocity stacks. The latter would add to the vertical/horizontal look, but the ribs on the blower case do also. We'll see. Note also the radiator shroud has been squared up and primed to show the tiny defects that still need work. Haven't decided on a color for the shroud or the seat. Probably tan or off white leather. Also, there will be a round eye mount added to the top of the spring forward of the banding, and another one forward of the one on the frame for a shock absorber. The existing eye is for the Kleig light base. Comments and observations welcome

The front and rear spring assemblies are not necessary to have a rolling base as the axles get cemented to the chassis. I'm doing this before adding wheels because I know myself and, well, I wouldn't want to let this slide as there are a couple of things needing correction. Firstly, the springs only show leaf detail on the outside. The inside surfaces on all 4 spring assembles are blank on the inside faces. Springs are easy enough to build. I scored my spring material from a sheet of styrene. I used dividers to get the length of each one, cleaned up each leaf and used liquid cement for assembly. I'll finish with the spring straps and plate details later on. But this is not the only reason I chose to rebuild the springs. The kit parts for the front lights are simple one piece affairs, but not accurate. It has the shock absorber being a part of the light stand, connected to the spring. Yowza. I've only seen one or two photos that have hinted at how they are really done. Here's my imagineering take on it. Looking at the spring assembly in the photo above, I'll be moving the 'eye' on the spring about 1/8" forward. The frame eye on the bottom stays, but a new one is added, again, about 1/8" forward. The spring and new eye on the frame section will be the new mounts for a new more detailed shock absorber. The real machine looks to have a separate shock mount mounted to the frame, dropping down to support the shock's bottom. I'm content with my version. The existing frame eye will anchor the light. But that's not the end of it. The shots I've seen seem to suggest that a horizontal support piece goes from the light stand and bolts to the side of the radiator shroud. There may even be two per light, but I'll stick with one. Neat. Comments and observations welcome.

Peteski, it is what it is. I'm probably the only person on the planet that sees it as minor annoyance. Maybe 'cause played with too much Lego when I was a kid. I'm pleased with the second attempt at using the tiles. I credit my sloppy work the first time around for my unease with it. I'll post after I get it up on wheels. I believe there's enough going on topside to eliminate the stark aircraft carrier flight deck appearance. Thanks for your comments and observations, much appreciated.

The more I looked at the first attempt at the mirror floor tiles, the more they didn't look right. I tried to convince myself the tiles were as good as they were going get, but I had to try again. I was caught up in the process so I don't have a shot of the completed redo, but I do have a pic at the beginning of the floor replacement. I removed one side of the floor tiles, skimmed on a thin coat of scratch filler and sanded to a level surface. I was surprised just how out of level the tiles were without. I'll post a shot of the completed chassis when I reach that point but for now here's the first side getting leveled, the other three sectors of tiles have yet to be removed. Also, I had applied a few coats of clear to the first attempt to help with the leveling process. I won't be doing that again. The biggest standout of the kit imho, and the one I like the least, is the radiator shroud. It's a good idea, but why is it flared? The original isn't, it's squared Even in the late 60's, I can't believe this was an injection molding hangup. So, onward and upward. I began by scoring the inside and removing the solid face of the unit. It will be replaced with screening (my favorite is from a grease splatter screen, it's cheap and has much more integrity than windows screen) for a bit of detail. I'll find a rad in the parts box. |Here's what bugs me and looks so.....contrived. I'll be cutting and squaring up the 4 angled sides. Comments and observations welcome.

A sad side note. The man I swapped kits with for this build died suddenly Sept 3 from cancer. Gordie T. was 66. I last saw him a couple of weeks previous

Thanks much for the shout out stavanzer!

As the axle ends are pretty well out in the open, I thought a bit of detail would be appropriate. Nothing contest grade or over the top for the rest of the kit, just a bit of texture. I began with slicing off the 'spindle' ends from the one piece all included axle part. Found a piece of brass rectangle the right size for the job. I sliced off a section, and, following that, sliced that piece in to two equal "c" sections which I then slid over the two vertical pivots. At the same time, I removed the tie rod. ...and here's the completed mod, everything touched up with gold paint. I added 4 slices of small diameter rod to simulate bolt/nut assemblies top and bottom, backing plates, and small beads for both the tie rod and still-to-come steering link to attach to. There's enough texture and shadow in there to please most people. this is a mockup of how the disc brake will sit in the wheel that will be attached to the backing plate ....and a mockup of the mockup Comments and observations welcome.

Continuing on, I've decided not to try to imitate the actual car but rather do my own interpretation of it, while at the same time trying a new technique or two. The first thing I've done is removed the transmission tunnel. Then, I drilled all the mounting holes thru the chassis. The plan is to lay painters (or other) tape on the top side and drilling thru the tape. This will leave me an accurate map of where holes should be placed on the surface by simply dotting the tape hole with a Sharpie. This was the original idea. Go gold. I got the tiles, both chrome and gold, from the Dollar Store. They're glass, and, no matter how may techniques I tried to trim a square, they're so small, and the glass so.....fragile....it was all but impossible to cut an angle. Then, I got an idea. In the photo below there's a piece of adhesive chrome vinyl, a couple of glass squares, and a strip of styrene. As it turns out, the vinyl matches the chome mirror tiles. So, I stuck a glass square on the styrene, cut the styrene to match using a single edge razor blade for a close cut, removed the glass square, and stuck a piece of chrome vinyl to the styrene. Now it was a simple matter of cementing the styrene piece to the chassis, and trimming to fit ...and this is what I ended up with. Notice the angle cuts on the left here's a mock up view of the chrome and gold layout That's it for now. Comments and observations welcome.

Mike, decals were non existent with this model, but you know, I saw one build where the tub was flamed and I thought I actually liked it better. I'll be making a few changes to the model as it progresses and have no firm plans for the tub finish, may even just leave it white. We'll see what happens.

Figured I would share this wip here for anyone interested. I acquired this (glue bomb) kit from a friend of mine, swapped a kit for it. In my haste to begin disassembly I neglected to take any photos of it, however, here's the box o' parts after the fact, and before the Purple bath ...and a loose mockup of the model after bathing Additional 'chrome' pieces are in the bag behind the model. The orange pieces are from ye olde parts box, disc brakes front and rear. Anyway, a few ideas are on the back burner. Comments and observations welcome.

Thank you for the kind words noblng!

Thanks muchly guys for the kind words, it was a good time building it with not too many hangups.