Farmboy

Many thanks Carl. Always appreciate your comments!

Many thanks Luna jammer. ?

Bill, I think she's yer basic grocery getter lol. Thanks for the kind words. Nothing planned. Beamerman, Stavanger, thank you for the kudos.

Thank you for the kind words KK. ?

Hey Chris. Sometimes the build took a bit of thought but It turned out ok. Thanks for the shout out.

Chris, Zippy, really pleased you like the build! XYHARRY, inspiration is where you find it, and its simply awesome to think I may have added a bit in some small way. Post what you do, and keep everybody in the loop! ?

Thank you both for your comments guys, appreciated.

Thanks for all the good words and kudos everybody! Espo, a lot of luck went in to the build, thank you for the shout out. ClassicGas I tried to give the vehicle personality where everything kind of agreed with everything else. Thanks for the kind words. Chucky, don't know how much skill is in it, but I'm glad you like the finished model.

Glad you like, Karbuildr, thanks for the kind words,

Hey Steve! Yeah, more room for another kit on the shelf lol!

Wow Satterwhite, thank you much!

Appreciate the good words Emre, thank you!

My thanx Mr M!

Thank you, guys. It was a fun project.

Finished. Posted in Model Cars Under Glass. Thanks to all who stopped by for a look or a comment.

Finished. Dodge Deora meet Ford Fedora! The project began with how to showcase a Potvin front mounted blower, and a ford flathead caught my attention. I happened to have a Ford Ranchero won at a model show in my stash...so why not. I moved the cab forward and the rest just happened. There are even a few modified Deora kit parts in the build. A fun project. Hope the wip was of interest to those who stopped in. Stock tail lights add accent to the smoothed-inn slab back end. The grille is a combination of a cut down Nova piece, with upper and lower areas from a Pontiac Catalina. The Ford oval covers the Nova SS badge. Front rolled pan is custom made. The dash top was extended to take up room. Stock dual mirrors. All four wheel openings were slightly modified. Also made the nerf bars on top of the bed rails. This area is where the cab originally sat The flathead engine is of dubious parts box parentage, the heads being the only actual fer-shur flat head parts on it. A scratch built extension between block and blower allowed me to keep the two water pumps and fan belt. The intake is air only. Fuel injection rails, harness, and fuel delivery all scratch built. Black couplers are plastic and heatshrink tube and BMF detailing. The cooling hoses connect to a plate that lines up with a piece inside the cab that would allow the fluid (theoretically) to circulate thru the rad by going under the cab floor. Paint is Plaid craft paint. With 2 wet sanded clear coats and a Novus 1 & 2 finish. The transmission is covered by a scratch built shroud. The tranny connects to the rear end much like the Hemi Under Glass and other wheel sander exhibition cars. Comments and observations welcome.

Well Gary, the impetus for the whole thing was the Potvin blower. I picked up the Mooneyes dragster just for the blower assembly for some future build (didn't want to part out the Orange Crate already in my stash). I was looking thru the H.A.M.B. one day and there was a Potvin equipped flattie! What a great idea! I was sold!...but what to put it in? I decided rear engine, and, it just happened the Ranchero turned out to be the donor. I had a few pairs of flathead heads, but I couldn't tell you what kits and pedigrees all the other engine parts -- even the blocks -- came from. I thought it out then cut, filed, and modified all the different parts till everything fit. The dual water pumps and associated hose(iery?) add interest and visual complexity. Thanks for the shout out Gary.

These mockup shots will probably be the last ones before completion. Still have a few details to add such as tail lights, Ford ovals front and back and mirrors, along with a small number of engine enhancements like fabbing a couple of narrow heat shields over the headers as the flanges look crappy after the Molotow, and repainting the transmission (but it'll have a cover over it in any case). The engine hoses need connecting to the front plate, and I'm still playing with the f.i. harness. Sounds like a lot but it really isn't, just need the time. Thanks to all that took an interest in the build. I'll post notice here when it's finished in the Under Glass dept. Comments and observations welcome.

Hi Gary. It's a convenient mod to do to a tube cutter. I made it a couple of years ago and it's come in handy more than a few times since then. Thanks for the shout out.

My apologies to those waiting for updates. Thought I'd take a minute to show how I made the rubber couplers. I used a tube cutter. This one is yer basic down to 1/8 The tube rest is too big for most modeling cuts. In the shot above take note of the rollers. They don't let you do the small diameter end cuts needed a lot of the time. I took a second tube cutter, removed the wheels and replaced them with a one-piece wooden support block with a groove added for small tubing to rest in. The circles were for the pins if they had been required. See the difference The rubber couplers were fabbed from shrink tubing heated around the appropriate diameter metal - in this case brass - tubing. I guess aluminum would work too. The straight ends are now a given. I eyeballed the length of the couplers simply by indexing the shrink (shrunk?) tubing against the inside shoulder of the cutter. Slide the cut piece off the end. Wrap the foil if you use it while the cut piece is still on the rod Comments and observations welcome

Hey Steve! Seems like everybody had a good time at the show, it was nice to sit and have a chat with you. Normally a short hop across the bridge and I'm home in 10 minutes but a friend needed a lift the other way so it was about 40 with traffic. Looking forward to next year, trust you had a safe drive home as well.

I feel that way about 3d printing Gary. It's natural evolution, but change tends to put a tremor in the force for me and it takes a while to warm up to it. I only just bought a Molotow pen a couple of days ago, one small step for Mikey.... I would normally have slipped the tube on a rod chucked in the drill press and carefully hold a silver pencil (or paint pen) to let it make the band, but the foil is cleaner. ...and thanks for the kind words.

Got the collars (pipe/hose clamps) on. These were made from close fitting coffee stir sticks but I could have used metal tubing, shrink tubing etc. The metal clamps were done with thin strips of bmf. The plumbers nightmare gets bigger lol. Heater hoses are next Comments and observations welcome.

I was wondering if I could pull off a credible job of the two air pipes on the front of the engine. I had some same diameter aluminum rod so why not give it a try. The big deal was to create the compound curves without leaving marks, and getting them the right length and height. It was rod so my round pliers didn't mar them like tubing. I'll be making the pipe connections with plastic collars so I cut the pipes short in both axies(?) as they will allow for minor adjustment...and here's the mockup The collar connectors are long to sort of hold things in place for the shot but the finished ones give me horizontal adjustment while there will also be another 2 at the blower end for vertical. I think it works...and they're not chrome. Note also the plate I'll be using for the four rad hoses at the front of the bed. Comments and observations welcome

Wow Dan, thanks much! That's a heck of a kudo. Dunno about the prize-winning part but it is unique. Just time consuming small stuff to the end now. 'preciate the shout out.