Ryan S.

Thanks for posting. Lots of sweet rides in there!

Very cool. Nice job on the weathering. I love seeing these odd or rare subjects done in unconventional ways.

These add up very nicely What did you use as the basis for this one? Very unusual looking.

Juiced is right! I never would have thought that a Hemi would fit in that engine bay but nice work all around getting it all to fit. It doesn't even look too tight, it looks real good!

Awesome build and even more cool that you've got a real one. I think I would have been way more into learning about the French Revolution if someone had brought a real guillotine to show at school.

Going real this week.

I totally agree. But if people are going to go that route, then they should make a topper for the distributor cap, like the Accel one you have pictured. Without it, it doesn't look right to me. IMHO of course.

This thing is sharp! Love the blacked out wheels with the chrome rim and spinner.

Thanks for the tips, Brian. I'm going to try some of your settings and see how they work. I had a real "duh, why didn't I think of that moment" while reading this. I never thought about using the timer to avoid camera shake. I'll use a tripod sometimes but using the timer as well...brilliant

I'm loving watching this come along and it's looking really good. You'll be ready to fight crime here in no time!

Man, that purple paint looks great on this. I'm enjoying watching this come together.

Thanks guys! The Foose '56 was what had me thinking about moving the wheels forward, then lownslow did it to his that's on the bench here and I was sold. I am happy with the subtlety and I hope when it's done people look at it for a while before seeing the changes. Still have to finess some of the body work and work on the suspension. I'd like to get it a little lower if I can. Maybe one of these days it'll see some paint

So I couldn't leave well enough alone so I moved the front wheel openings forward about 3-4 mm. I neglected to take any photos of that process as one day I just decided to dive in head first on it. Having done this, of course, means that the suspension points on the front end needed to be moved as well to mach the new openings. After some deliberation I decided that it would just be easiest to move the whole front frame clip forward by adding some plastic to the frame. The following pictures show a little of what I did, as well as the results. As always, thanks for looking and any/ all comments etc welcome! These are just some quick mock ups. The front wheel isn't attached, which is why it looks a little too far forward in the wheel well. I just wanted to get an idea of how it all looked.

Nice job on this one. I haven't seen a bad 66 wagon yet. That would be one LOUD grocery-getter, without any mufflers !

I can't really add anything that hasn't been said already but great job on this "what-if" build. I'm just amazed with your speed, cleanliness and level of detail. I was just thinking that it would be cool to see a Nascar series, exhibition races or even an new version of the IROC series take classic body styles with modern chassis, safety and engine tech, like your build. Unlikely, but I'd love to see cars like yours here running around the track.

Good thread! One thing that always bothers me, mostly because I think I'm super critical like that, is totally inaccurate order of plug wires on a distributor cap. Wires don't come out four on one side and four on the opposite all nice and even. In these days of easy Google searches it's pretty easy to find out what the correct firing order of almost any engine is. I like to get the order right on my builds, but even if someone didn't want 100% accuracy, changing up the order and crossing a few of the wires over will give a much more accurate appearance.

I like the looks of this one so far. I'll have my eye on it.

That is one mean looking Challenger. Great job!

My quick guess, from recent similar experience, is that you are a little too close and are putting too heavy of a coat of paint on. Some paints just have to be layered up; especially with parts that have a lot of texture to them. Another problem could be temperature. If the parts are cool and you are spraying in a warmer area with cool paint, could cause the problem. I like to put my parts where I'm going to spray for 5-10 min before hand. And warm the paint can too. I hope this helps some.

Your build looks good so far. Bummer about the body fit issue- hopefully you can figure it out and it's an easy fix. One thing I've started to make sure I do when mocking up (this might seem obvious, but I neglected to do it for a while) is make sure the glass is fitted in the body (with tape) and the interior in more or less pieced together (mainly the dash and the rear deck). This way the chassis and floor pan has something to snug up to and gives you a truer sense of the ride height. Just a thought. Looking at your last picture, it almost looks like the driver side-rear fender area is warped upwards just a little because the roof line looks to be pretty even. Could just be the picture though.

I use this primer as well and I have not had any problems spraying the Testors lacquers over it. I would test on a spoon or a scrap piece of plastic first, as a safety net, but in my experience you should be ok.

Well thanks to this thread I went out and got some Bondo 2 part putty that I'll be using for major mods from now on. I've already used some and it works pretty good. Gotta watch the ratio of hardener cause this stuff can set up fast! Thanks for all the info.

I had to go real on this one. We'll see Friday.

Yeah, that is just stunning. What a cool and unique concept and excellent execution!

I'll be honest, I never knew that that's how it's pronounced. I learn something new every day!