shucky

Virgil, thats quite a vacuum forming machine! Where on earth is that from and what does it cost?? And I'm not whining, I'm a BIG fan of Dr. Cranky as I truly get inspired by your projects ... but chopping a top or opening doors is not "scratch-building." Just sayin'.

Erik, looks like a real nice result. Thats a solid and clean cast. Nice going.

AWESOME!

Erik I have no experience with Alumilite quick-set, but I have not heard too many positive comments about it. I've used their HS2 for about 2 years now w/out any issues. I think Casey and Ryan might both be on to something though. If it pulls away again I'd try using a thick styrene rod i/o of the metal your using in the mold. Depending on how many pulls you'd like to get, the quick-set is not very durable in the long run. You may want to think about switching to something else like HS2 or similar from smooth-on. I do have smooth-on's mold star 15 but have not tried that yet. Hope you post your results. Good luck.

simply amazing!

Tyrone, that first black Camaro is so awesome. I like all of your work but that one is crazy cool. Nice work!

I agree with Wayne here. I have tons of the Pro Track fronts & rears and they awesomeness all around. Never really have an issue with fitment on bodies or tires either. Larger O-rings can be had on line or in your local hardware stores. I buy mine in bulk at mcmastercarr online.

Don, very cool so far.

Awesome Jimmy. That looks amazing.

Some of mine. Should have something new to show soon.

Ryan those are spectacular tires. Did you mold those in the split mold like you showed us in the other thread? They look perfect. Super nice job!

Davin, nice job on the wheels! The cast copies look nice too. Great job!

Some of my favorite builds of the year! Very nice and your pictures are always awesome.

Another unbelievable build! Just flat out awesome scratchbuilding! Really reminds me of the "speed freaks" line by Terry Ross. Outstanding build, cant wait to see more.

Guys, thanks for the great info. The decals look awesome. Nice work as always!

I'm confused. How does a washed, primed, AND painted body "weep" oils?

Very impressive and inspirational. Thanks so much for posting.

Chuck that depends on what you want to do with it. If your making these for yourself you could get by with simple hand tools. If your making a master for a production run my best guess would be you'd want the master to be as perfect as possible. For that, I would say a lathe would be my choice. This would ensure the tire is completely round and the slot cut for the white wall insert is centered and the tolerance is tight. Just my 2 cents as I've tried this myself.

The Japanese stuff is called Oyumaru. Try this link....http://www.artclayworld.com/cartgenie/prod-696.htm Read all about this stuff after the SA review came out a few years back. Never tried it though. It may be ok for making simple 1 piece molds for one or two pieces.

I'm guessing Art is referring to black wall tires that do not already have slots cut in them to accept the white wall "insert." In order to make tires such as these into usable masters you would need to machine the fine slot required into the side of the tire in order to accept a white wall insert.

Wheels are easy. Steve, the simplest way would be to file the back of the wheel flat (so remove the lip on the back of the wheel). You'll also want to do this to the wheel back (inner wheel) which you also posted pics of. Then, simply make a one piece mold of these. If you want to avoid bubbles or any imperfections on your cast piece simply take a small paint brush and brush on a layer of silicone mold making rubber on to your master to ensure there are no trapped air bubbles. Afterwards simply drizzle in your silicone rubber into your mold and let it cure. I've done this countless times with flawless results. If you want the back of your wheel (and wheel backs) to be flat and clean when cast simply pour in your casting resin into the mold and place a piece of 1/4 inch glass on top of the mold (carefully). You can watch the resin cure through the glass and when fully cured carefully pull the MOLD from the glass. Your cast wheels (or whatever) will now be stuck to the glass. Simply use a flat razor blade and work the finished resin edges free from the glass. You now have perfectly clean cast wheels with perfectly flat and clean backsides. This technique works best if you mist your piece of glass with mold release prior to setting on top of your mold. Every couple pours its best to spray a lil more mold release on the glass to make it easy to remove your resin pieces. Thats how I would do it. It would give you the best results and its the easiest. A two piece mold would be extra work and the only point of that is to have the detail present that is on the BACKSIDE of the wheel. However, there is normally no point to this because you cant see the back side of a wheel once its placed in a tire. Of course there are lots of other tips and tricks but if your already experimenting with resin casting than I take it you know the basics. You do not need a vacuum chamber whatsoever for simple things like this. These wheels were done exactly as I described above-

Doctor, I hate winter in Chicago but I am excited to get back to working on my model projects as well as resin casting. Summer brings many projects around the house and being outdoors with the wife, so modeling gets the back burner. Starting this weekend I'll be back on some modeling projects and pouring new molds to get back into some resin. Really looking forward to it. What about the good Doctor himself?

Ryan project is looking good. Not sure about integrating the Challenger rear though? Unsure if it will look right on the wagon body. Front looks great though. Hopes its okay to say ... the build is begging for larger wheels and lower profile tires. Keep up the good work!

nice! love the wheel choice.

This is one of the most creative + innovative creations I've seen in a long long time. Most outstanding in every way possible. Thanks for posting and please show us more.