Roger U

I plan on going to this show. Last years Citrus Nationals was the first model show I'd been to in a long time and I enjoyed it a lot.

Nice to see such creative ideas put into a build. Really nice !!

Model

Yeah, the tailpipes and the gaps between the body panels, especially in the trunk area, say model. Also, the "bar" running from one tailpipe to the other is at an angle, not parallel to the ground. I vote Model, course I could be wrong.

These Real or Model contests are really good for pointing out all the small details that can be added to our models for more realism. Thank you for this continuing challenge Harry. Also, it's fun

Looks REAL to me, we'll see Friday

That is amazing detail for sure. All the tiny parts, mechanisms, and linkages that work, wow!!!

Jon, That's the same one I have. Hmmm the distributor is not correct, any other obvious faults or errors? Would the wiring, hoses, belts, linkages, etc. be considered well done? As I said I've never detailed an engine so I was just wondering if this is a good example to go by. Thanks very much for your input. Hope you're up and walking around again very soon.

Not sure if this is the right place for this topic but here goes. I bought a 1320 model of Don Garlits' Wynnscharger dragster (1/24 scale diecast) a while ago. I've just been looking at it and started wondering - would the engine detailing on this model be considered good, not so good, or somewhere in between? It's been a long time since I've built a model and I didn't do any engine detailing back then.

Another tough one, I'll say a very nice Model.

I had my 1971 Datsun 240-Z up to 118 mph back in 1973. In the early 70s I did some motorcycle road racing and got up to approx. 128-130 mph on my 250cc Yamaha TD-1C.

A really nice model with great detail. That was a good one Harry and I sure missed it this time. I'm ready to try again Monday.

When I first saw the photo I instantly thought real. After a second and third examination it still looks real. I don't know, is this too easy, am I missing something? I'm sticking with REAL.

Thanks for the extra photos, Spyder. That is a beautiful car, especially in black as MrObsessive noted. You guys on this forum build great models but I'm not sure why this just looked real to me. Thanks Harry, keep it up with this contest.

This is a tough one. I agree with Pete J, because of the wheels and some little bits hanging down under the car I'll say real.

I agree it is very clean and smooth looking, especially the paint. You built a very nice model.

Just something about the look and a couple of details, I voted real.

You sure did a great job building and painting that model! Very nice!

I say real. It'll be interesting to hear some info. about this car.

Wow, thats quite a model, should keep you busy for a while. I don't know if I'd be able to finish one with all that amazing detail. I'm sure you'll do a great job on it, please show us the finished product. Do you know if Tamiya plans on producing any other GP bikes from this era? I have a few old Protar models but would like some other 1960s GP models.

I'll say real. As others have said some of the small details look too good to be for a model and, I also think almost any modeller would have put bigger wheels and tires in the rear?

I like F-1 cars, especially from the 1960s and 70s, and actually saw this Tyrrell at the Long Beach Grand Prix in the 70s, quite interesting. I haven't built any F-1 models yet (haven't built any car models for over 40 years ) but I'm getting back into it now and definitely plan to do some F-1's. Don't know if any kits are available for 60s cars, will have to check the hobby shops etc. If you do some body parts please let us know. Thanks

Thanks Tony, I'll try your suggestions. I've been using Testors enamals and their thinner for cleaning which hasn't worked too well for me, so I'll get some turpentine and try again. I also want to try Tamiya acrylics for details. The water clean up sounds easy enough. Guess I better get some new better quality brushes also.

I see that top quality brushes are recommended, which makes sense. What I need help with is how to clean the brushes so they can be used again. I'm sure it depends on the type of paint but let's use the Tamiya acrylics as an example - what cleaner should be used and what is the proper procedure? Do you dip the brush in and wipe it off several times, or let the brush soak for awhile then wipe it off, or what? This is an area I have problems with, getting all the paint out of the brush after using it. Thanks in advance for any tips you can offer.

Just got home and logged on to see what's happening. Wow, now I've got "skin" choices. This is MUCH better, thank you.