Jairus

Bob, You build some very nice stuff and ... I like the modifications made to the Subaru. Actually, the shot down into the cargo bay looks almost 1/1! Very nice model. Thank you for joining MCM Forum. 8)

lordairgtar, There are two, and only two, rules posting on this board. The most important is: could you please put your full name in the signature box in the personal profile section of this board. That way each and every post can be attributed to you! This is a good thing! Thank you, 8)

Dave, Yes, the huge amount of work required to make it presentable kept it unbuilt for quite a few years before selling it. I still have a fiberglass '48 Ford Ute that I keep looking at but cannot seem to find the courage to start on. You did a nice job with a very difficult and rough piece! Thank you for submitting it....

I see you!

Dat's cool! Hey, I sold one of those on ePay last year... this couldn't be that very same piece ... could it? 8)

Nice compressor! That will last you for a lot of years!

OOoooo pretty car Gregg! I guess you do finish some projects...

Wow, Brian... is that real wood? :shock:

That is CORRECT Glenn! Give the man a quarter.... 1960 actually! Mustang taillight frames were used for the exhaust vents and Thunderbird taillights were embedded in the rear valance. It's a wonder they called this a Dodge in the first place?

Welcome aboard Brian! 8)

Guys, I just remembered something. There is a kit that was released last year that has a great roof for this project! The AMT 1961 Ford Styline kit: The kit above I am working on for an article in MCM. The subject: Roof swap! Because of this I happen to have this roof left over: Want it? 8) A bit of trivia: this roof piece is actually the SAME piece that was used as a backlite in the construction of the original Dodge Deora show truck. Cool huh?

Wecome Bob! 8)

Wow, your easy to please! Just like Gregg....

Dave, Gregg is missing nothing but a sense of humor about surfing. The shark attack is true as far as I can tell....

Now that's one cool wagon! :mrgreen:

Jack, Wecome aboard MCM Forums! Yes, there are resin options available, however the beginning of this thread was the question about how to modify a plastic kit! Myself, I would rather modify plastic than buy someone elses work. And that's the fact Jack! 8)

Stephen, Depending upon the application, I almost always use the decals provided in the kit. The reason they look washed out is because the background your putting them over is too dark. Lets use the Gulf GT40 picture as an example… I would probably paint the blue and orange but then use the kit decals over the painted stripe. That way if the decals don’t totally cover or leave a peeking edge somewhere it’s not a total loss. Any breaks in the black line can be touched up with a tiny brush or technical drawing pen and India ink. Cover all decals with a couple of clear coats to smooth out the overall sheen, rub out the clear and your done! As for the question about painting of a black line… The aforementioned technical drawing pen works great and comes in a variety of line widths from “0000†to … well, really wide! You could use that to draw black lines freehand or with a ruler. The pen on the left is a “00†Rapidograph/Koh-I-noor technical pen. They are pretty expensive and this one is no longer available. (My pens usually last me 10 to 15 years but I use them every day! If left unused for longer than a couple of weeks they will dry up.) The nib on the right however, is neat in that it’s adjustable. Turn the thumbscrew and the tips narrow. Ink is held between the two tips through surface tension. Paint can also be used with this method but if paint is thinned out enough to work in this particular device it may not cover. The nibs are also very easy to clean and relatively cheap to purchase… if you can find them! At any rate… If you use either of these methods then you need to prep the surface very carefully first! Once the base color is totally dry, wet sand the whole car and get the painted stripe edge knocked down. Plus sanding puts a bit of a “tooth†on the finish so the ink will stick. Wipe dry with a clean towel. Wash your hands really good! (This cannot be stressed enough because the ink will not dry or stick where body oils are deposited) Use the ruler to guide your pen strokes and try to only make one pass with the pen. Let each pen stroke dry totally. If it’s not dry it will smear when you drag the ruler through it! (and you WILL do this…) For curves, use a French curve but don’t try to freehand it. This is the ink I use: Once dry India ink is permanent but it can be wiped off with a damp cloth before dry if you screw it up. I think rubbing alcohol will take the dry lines off if your unhappy but India ink formulas differ by brand. Always clear coat over any ink lines! If you have decals that are to go on too…. Be very careful, as the decal set, if used, will wash away the ink unless you seal it first. Better is to put the decals on first and draw the lines after the decals are totally dry and you have wiped the body down. I guess that’s it, Good Luck! 8)

Contest issue is at the printers RIGHT NOW! Don't know if we will be there... Are you talking about the NNL East? We plan to be at that one! Provided the water don't rise.... 8)

Tom, there was a question mark before the "" and that was the problem. I think he's got it! Welcome aboard MCM Forum!

Welcome aboard Tom!

Doug, sorry I didn't respond to your message before now. But Leisure Hobbies, on Lancaster Blvd, carry’s Model Cars Magazine! However, they sell out within the week according the guys who frequent the shop. Best bet is to take the subscription card inside the magazine, fill it out and GET A SUBSCRIPTION! Fer-heavens-sake! (This message was written with the greatest humility and respect for Doug’s work)

Welcome aboard Dave! I think the standards on this board just went up a notch..... 8)

Really like those wheels! This may be the nicest one yet.... Looking forward to seeing the finished product

Thanks Mark and may I say that you do beautiful work!

Looks like 1/12 scale... ?