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Everything posted by wgflatliner
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those look very nice. where can i get some?
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Alright, so my truck came in the mail today. so i took it apart to make sure everything was there.. so far so good Then came along one of the reasons i hated this model to begin with, BUT i have the tools and talent to figure these thing out now.. fitment issues. front edge of hood to fender differences: and from the top so i have to figure out how to get it to sit flush, and straight. i'll get it though plans (ok i'll spill the beans): Paint: Tamiya Brilliant Orange TS-56, Silver Leaf TS-30 two tone, separated with a black or white pinstripe (paint pen!) Powerplant: Nissan RB20DET twin turbo (i'd say a safe tune at 500hp) and yes, i need to re-paint some of it. Drivetrain: Factory Gertrag 6-speed transmission, All wheel drive. Wheels: dunno yet. open for suggestion though! the truck will be lowered to have a nice stance. Customizations: Aluminum pipes for intercooler piping, styrene intercooler, aluminum piped exhaust, tanneau cover hinged, center of truck bed exposed to show off rear diff area, bed floor sanded smooth and painted body color, plus who knows whatever else i'll come up with. i'll work on this until my etch kit shows up for the skyline.
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extremely nice job! i love the paint. what process did you use to buff out the paint? i ask this because apparently you used spray paint, which is my preference.
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Kit of the decade
wgflatliner replied to gasman's topic in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
actually most of the tamiya kits do include the motor, a select few platforms don't. but yeah i agree - the engine is the life of the car, so why not include it in all kits? maybe it's due to copyrighting issues or something from the manufacturers? -
Kit of the decade
wgflatliner replied to gasman's topic in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
i've been thinking about this exact question for a while now. i have concluded that anything Tamiya makes has turned out amazing, except that i'd like them to make the R34 WITH the motor instead of having to buy an R32 just to get the motor to maybe put in the R34. of the Tamiya kits, the Enzo and FXX ranks up there. I almost killed a coworker over the Enzo because i was displaying it at my desk, and a coworker came over, was on their cell phone and sat on the model. (was trying to sit on my desk) they never bothered to reimburse me the $70 (model, paint, glue, and time). now here's what i think would need to happen if Tamiya wanted to explode in the industry: make....... more.......... american........... cars............ (other than the Cobra R they currently make) -
my latest horror was the Aoshima C-West FD3S RX-7. from the box, it had at least a mm gap between the headlight hole and the fender. every piece that is glued to the body is proportioned incorrectly. The side vent scoops are mis-aligned. it didn't want to sit all 4 tires without some manipulation. before that, was the AMT 55 Chevy Stepside street machine. the one molded in maroon. I don't know if i had a really defective kit, but even after sanding and priming and sanding and priming, the body simply refused to accept any paint. I have no idea how i got it to hold the paint, but when i was trying to restore it (stupid me) all it took was a knick in the paint and the rest of it just flaked off. The glue also wouldn't adhere to the plastic whatsoever. The interior detail, like most AMT models i've worked on, lacked any bit of detail, and it felt like you had to go an extra 10 miles to get it to look semi-decent. The same effort on a monogram equivalent would net a much better end result. also, the hood never seated properly. the one thing i did like about the stepside was that the oil pan was a single unit within itself so it didn't have a crack down the middle of it. That and it had edelbrock engine details.
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alright, update time! 1. i touched up the "digital" part of the center console on the dash. it now looks proper. 2. rear suspension components are complete. 3. gas lines installed, although the pics make the lines look worse than they actually are. I used chrome silver as a base, and tamiya clear blue and clear red to mimic the anodized fittings. 4. glued in the front drive shaft. now i'm just waiting for the etched pieces to get here along with the carpet and whatever else so i can complete the car. i'm a little disappointed that i accidentally tapped the body of the car while the paint was drying anyways, pics of the undercarriage: i'll keep working on this until i get either my etched pieces or the 55 truck gets delivered.
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ok question, and i apologize for the size of the photo: on the following pic i'm trying to figure out a couple things: the two big lines that go along the frame on the right, and the small line on the far left. it starts out black and goes into silver - any idea what they might go to? also, i'm trying to figure out the color of that driveshaft... i'm thinking a mixture of olive drab and yellow? thanks in advance.
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thanks for the kind words! i can't wait to get the photo-etch kit. Your build looks pretty solid. I want to clean up the interior better than what it is though, because you can see inconsistencies with the black paint next to the red. i'm thinking of maybe masking off and exposing the black only on the rear seat and laying down semi-gloss black. i'll need to remove the front seats to get the carpet put in, so i can mask/paint those separately. then again, maybe i'm just over-thinking this. maybe i should just put the interior in the model, mock it up and see if i can really tell that there's inconsistencies in the black paint. as far as the light greenish hued paint in the center console, i was trying to go for that digital dash piece look as i referenced in the original post of this thread. i need to touch that up as well as it's bleeding into the trim piece above it. as for the paint, i plan on doing another coat this afternoon when i get home. i love tamiya paints though. they spray on nice and even!!
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Alright, little update on this.. the window masking and paint turned out really well. I had noticed some molding lines near the back of the car, so i had to sand them out, and now the primer is drying. I figured that since i was fixing the body, i may as well have just sanded out any imperfections and get it right the first time, such as the excess paint in the rear deck lid and hood. Once i get the body looking correct with the paint, which i plan to do about 6 coats, i'll let the paint cure for a week before i start the buffing process, of course letting each coat dry for at least 24 hours. Also in the mail is the photo etched kit, and floor carpeting material specific for this model. now if only i could be good at precision detailing, i'd attempt to paint the defroster lines across the back window.. but why risk ruining a perfect window? heh
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question for shucky: how do you bond aluminum to aluminum? what type of glue/epoxy?
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i was just wondering if you happened to have a part number for either of those skylines? preferably the one on the bottom.
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so far the build is looking pretty good. I would recommend maybe sanding down the piece that glues to the top of the motor so it has a flush fit. (looking at the 2nd pic, there's a tiny gap on the top left corner of it.) I have built Tamiya bikes before and they are fun! i built the ducati found here: http://www.tamiya.com/english/products/14101ducati/index.htm Based on experience i will say that when you go to put the brake lines and other hoses on, make sure you take your time. if you rush this, then it's a very good possibility that the plastic part you're trying to put the hoses on could break. Also make sure you don't use too much pressure so you don't crimp the hoses. just a reeeeeeeeeeeally small dab of glue inside the hose should be ok with keeping it in place.
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could i give you a quick tip? i know i'm not a modeling pro but i do know a LOT about turbo systems and how they work. on the turbo, looking at the pic i quoted: the pipe you got going towards the passenger door - you have that going to an air filter.. that pipe should actually be the pipe that dumps down to the exhaust. the pipe you have going to the front should be going to the air filter instead of the intercooler there needs to be a piece coming off the housing of the turbo that should run to the intercooler here's a pic of my turbo on my real car: the port with the fins (if it were on your model) goes to the air filter the port going off to the left goes to the intercooler the port you can't see on the back of the turbo goes to the exhaust, like the following pic: you do have the other pipe from the intercooler to the intake manifold correct. i hope this helps, and i apologize if i offend you for trying to give you a tip. hehe
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as far as building a rotary drag car, check out this BMW 3-series with a 26b 4-rotor powered drag car. http://www.mazdarotary.net/queenstbmw.htm
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curse me for being a compulsive buyer. i splurged. 32 bucks later.
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thank you for posting the pics. so - i have to find the model and hope it gets here in a decent amount of time. hong kong is kinda far away ya know. but i may just splurge and get it anyways.
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thanks for the tips on the turbo i'd like to see more detailed pics of the motor, like the back of it, and where the spark plug wires go, etc, if you could please