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Looks like the Charger Daytona is progressing faster than ever before ! I painted the water pump silver as well as the bolts from that timing chain cover. I glued it on place, painted the distributor and started working with the spark plug wires. First I drilled nine holes to the distributor and then glued the wires on place. They are made out of Scale Dreams' wire and the spark plug boots are electric wire. I still have to finish with those plug wires though. Also the front seats were painted and glued on place. Next step would be the seat belts.

Slowly but Surely (?) the Charger Daytona is coming along. On the latest update on page 25 I sprayed some Spray Filler on the body. It showed that the body is actually looking pretty smooth, but there was still a minor problem with the nose. So I put Bondo on a larger area to the nose and sanded it smooth. Now I believe the body should be ready for the final Primer coat... Maybe. Hopefully. I also put the rear spoiler together after removing the ejector pin marks from the underside of those parts. It was a real pain to get right, but now it's pretty close. Next I must smooth the glue joints from that spoiler and then I can start the painting process with that part, too. It'll be flat black, just like the hood too. Sorry the pics are not the best... It was dark and that's what my camera doesn't like at all.

Super nice Mercury, as always. It's so nice to see someone building these rarely seen subjects, especially when you do so clean work. The smooth paint job and immaculate BMF on this one make it look like a real deal. This really inspires me to get started with my AMT '59 Edsel Corsair....

You sure do clean work. Every time I look at your builds I'm completely amazed... Great work in a short time, this Mustang is going to be an excellent build when completed! The body is looking fantastic already, keep it going.

Yesterday I masked the red areas of the body away to be able to paint some silver on the roof. After the paint dried, it looks like it needs a light wetsanding and just a little more silver. But it's not too bad. I also painted the hood from the underside.

Thanks guys! I highly appreciate the kind words. A Small update for this one. I found a set of carburetors from my parts box. They're from AMT '66 Chevy Nova kit and they should be pretty good for this one. I also scratchbuilt a scoop from sheet styrene. I still have to drill holes for the carburetor throats to the bottom of that scoop, but otherwise it should be ready for paint. The hood isn't painted yet, because I have to make the hole on it slightly smaller.

Yep, it's one of my favorites too. It has a Small Block Ford with a Pro Charger and the best ET so far is 8.5. The driver said at 2014 Finals that he can't go with full throttle, otherwise the car will start going sideways. He has also done a couple of massive wheelstands with that one... Like here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=seO9TceD2Wc

Whoops, you're correct. Though, Super Stock was part of the Stock category until 1967, so for any of those cars the 9 inch slicks are not correct. After that they'll work fine as you said. I think those can be used in Dragsters and Altereds as well. In my Fiat 500 Altered I have 9" slicks and to me they look pretty good. Though I'm going to replace these in the picture with a pair of Cheater Slicks....

Well, actually if building 100% correct Stock or Super Stock Drag Car from the Early '60s, those tires wouldn't be legal. Cheater Slicks were allowed but they could not be larger than 7 inches and they had to have at least two thread strips on them. Many of those slicks did grew to 7½ inches after a few runs, so some of the drivers had to lift up the rear end on jack stands, put the 1st gear in so that the wheels are turning and use a file to file the tire back to 7 inches. In 1967 when Super Stock was first time it's own category with 10 classes from SS/A to SS/EA, they were allowed to run with any tire that could fit inside the stock wheelwells. But still Stockers had to run with the 7" tire with those two thread strips. I can't remember when the Stockers were allowed to start using 9" slicks, though. In Factory Experimental classes, Drag Slicks were allowed if they did fit inside the original and unmodified rear wheel wells and they could not exeed 10 inches. But honestly speaking, those are minimal things that doesn't matter that much. Even I have built old Stockers and Super Stockers with 9" Slicks because I think it's a really small mistake. But if you're going for 100% accuracy, then you might want to buy correct Slicks from Speed City Resins.

I like this year model better, too. Great job on the conversion, the front end fits so well that it looks like factory made. Thanks for the information on the fitment, when I get one of these '90 LX Mustangs, this is what I will do. Then I could build something like this Top Street Mustang: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uKdJ9MYl7OE I'll be following this one with a great interest.

After a long break (I forgot this thread existed!) I have more pics to post in here. I think a good one to begin with would be the first Vantaa Cruising Night of 2014. It took place in April and there were lots and lots of cars. I bet it was the record number of cars in April's Cruise Night. Many people decided to "test drive" their new tires, and there were lots of big and smoky burnouts as well. Here are a few pictures first: Here is a Link to the full Picture Gallery. And a Burnout video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RirlKkKJiaM

Thanks guys! Yep, it's great that there are many US cars here in Finland and Cruising Nights etc. Actually only not so good thing is the long winter. Anyway, I forgot I had already posted a thread for pictures from Finnish Car Events. I'll continue posting these pics in that thread: http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=44271

I forgot I had a short video of this one driving out from the Car Show. Here it is: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rH0K2my3H4I Thanks everyone for the interest... I'll post another one from Finland!

This will be interesting! I like watching those Roadkills as well and this was one of my favorites. I'm sure you will do great work with this one, so I can't wait to see more. I'm interested in the grille, though. What are you going to do to replicate the one in the real car better than what the kit offers?

This will be interesting! You build really high quality models and I'm glad to see you building a Drag Car, too. This kit has been on my "Wish List" for a long time, but I believe you'll inspire me to finally buy it. I can't wait to see how it turns out.

I agree, very good looking Wheelstander. The idea is very cool, it's always nice to see something different, especially when it's done as nicely as this. Good looking paint and sharp details. I really like this one.

We don't, because we all know that picture was fake... I guess the Chevy guy is cleaning his NOS injectors and giving some handycap to the Ford, because he knows his Chevy is so much faster.

I'd like to see the Twelve-Spoke Dragster / Altered / Gasser etc front wheels that can be found in AMT Double Dragster kit. Another one would be the Chrome Reverses from AMT '62 Pontiac Catalina.

Thanks for the kind comments everyone! I appreciate them! Carl & Rob: Yep, I agree, sometimes these things can be a true mystery. It's not the first one of my models that have had this kind of a problem and I've never figured out why. Steven: That is true, too. I've clear coated a flat turqouise once before and it turned out really good. I hope this one will turn out as good as that one did. Chris: I have to agree, it looks pretty good like this. I never thought I would be saying this, but it is really good looking right now. But I think I will clear coat it shiny and I believe it'll look better like that. Charlie: It's a really nice kit. I bet it looks good if built as a Box Stock, too. The kit is so well detailed from the factory that I think it looks very real without any added details, too. Glenn: Thanks... I'm glad you like it! Dave: That's a good question. Well, I think it makes no difference if I had painted the silver first. For some reason I have always painted the darker color first, even though many people like to paint the lightest color first... But as I said, I think the end result will be the same even if done both ways.

I bought these from a local Model Car Show. My plan was to be there with a small budget and not to buy too much stuff. I have more than enough projects already! However, a fellow Finnish modeler passed away recently (R.I.P. ) and now folks were selling a part of his collection. The prices were fair, so I just had to get a couple of kits... -AMT '59 Edsel. This is a complete buildup, not a glue bomb and all parts are there except one hubcap. I'm going to build it as a Mild Custom. -AMT '58 Edsel. This will be used as a chassis and engine donor for the '59. -AMT '62 Bel Air Super Stock. I will use this as a donor kit for my Ronnie Sox '63 Impala Z-11 build. -Revell/Monogram '59 Impala HT. Decals and Custom parts are missing, but that doesn't matter me as this will be a Junior Stocker. -Revell '69 Chevy Nova. I'm taking the engine from this one to my '60 Impala project. The Nova will probably end up being an Outlaw 10.5 car or something like that. -AMT '51 Chevy Glue Bomb. Looks like someone has crashed this one. It will be used as a parts car for the other '51 Chevys I have. -Lindberg's '32 Ford Pickup. I'm planning to turn this one into an Early '60s Show Rod. -Red taillights for '61 Dodge Phoenix. -A set of resin Steel Wheels that are cast by a friend of mine. -Super Glue. Click on the links for more pictures of the items.

Thanks Greg and Gene! I appreciate the kind words. I got the idea for the color when I saw someone building another Tri-Five Chevy with a similar paint scheme. I thought it might look good. And I have to admit, it looks pretty good. The paint is Tamiya's TS-23 Light Blue. I'll be using Tamiya's White for the top but I can't remember the paint code. I will check it out today.

Thanks Steve for the great tips! I will definitely try those when I find them somewhere. If not in Finland, then I must order them online... Thanks Shane for the kind words! Your builds are something that keep me motivated. You do such a nice and clean work. There was still a minor paint issue after the repaint so I sanded it smooth once more, and sprayed a really light coat of red on the trunk area where the paint was cracked. Luckily it turned out smooth, but as I painted a really light coat, the color turned out being flat rather than shiny. Well, I hope clear coat will fix that. After removing the tape I did a mock up on the chassis. Tomorrow I'm going to a local Model Car Show and I'm taking this one with me to the Primer Table. After that show I will paint the top with silver and clear coat this thing.

Actually, I've built them already . Only the collectors are missing and I should make them soon, as I know how to make them now. Here's a picture of those headers: But it's true that I should get back to that Nova really soon. I use grey (or sometimes white, like this time) Primer from Maston. It works really nicely and so far I haven't found a single paint paint color that would get somekind of a reaction with that Primer. I don't know if it's available in the USA, though. Well I got the tapes removed. Luckily my masking worked and I don't have to remove the blue paint from the white areas. Here is a picture of the body only, and then a couple pics of a mock up with the body on the chassis. I'm going to a local Model Car Show tomorrow, and I'm taking this one with me to the "Primer Table"...

Well, if it's warm enough and the weather conditions are good overall, I like to paint outside with spray cans. But if the weather isn't that good, I have to paint inside the garage. What comes to the results, I've actually found no difference in painting outdoors VS indoors. I don't know what happened this time, but hopefully it won't happen again with the white! Luckily, I was able to fix that paint job. I sanded it smooth very carefully and I didn't go through the paint. So today I decided to spray a very thin coat of blue on the body. Just so little that it's single colored and nothing more. Of course it has some orange peel right now, but luckily these Tamiya Sprays seem to smooth out a little while they dry. It's not shiny, but I hope a good clear coat will take care of that.

Finally I was able to do some more bodywork with my Dodge Charger Daytona. After the last set of pictures, I have been adding putty and sanding the front end many times. There was also a large sink mark on the trunk lid and on top of the rear fenders. I smoothed that out with putty and sanded it smooth. Then I thought it would be the time to throw some spray filler on. And to my surprise, I didn't screw up the paint this time.