W-409

Thanks Everyone! I appreciate it. Umm, I was afraid that someone would ask that question at some point. The problem is that I really don't know, which sounds funny, but it actually is true... But here are a couple of pictures so that maybe someone can tell me what these exactly are. I bought a set of these from a local craft store. I'm pretty sure that they are some parts for electrical components, but I don't know what they exactly are. This set has 300 of them in different sizes and it cost about 7 Euros. To use them only thing you have to do is remove that colored plastic part. It comes off very easily with a couple of light knocks with a little hammer.

Same thing happened to Finland against Sweden. That game ended 2-1. But luckily Finland beat The USA today and we got the Bronze Medal. 5-0 Win is pretty good one, and Teemu Selänne scored two goals in his last match in Finland's shirt.

Really nice looking build. I like the paint job a lot, it looks very smooth and shiny. The red stripes on those tires are really sharp, too. Are they decals? Great Job! BTW: I saw you're from Nice. I just spent four days there (From Monday to Thursday) and it's a real nice place. Are there more Hobby Shops near that place? I visited in Modelisme 2000 that was on Rue de l'Hôtel des Postes, but there weren't that many cars. I bought a '09 Challenger that will be built as a Drag Pack car, but if I'll do another visit in Nice, I'd like to know if there are more shops? Again, great work with the GTX.

Thanks Bill! And Sorry I must have missed your comment, but better late than never I guess. Yes, the rear tires will be changed. Now when you said it, it feels stupid that I almost used those regular slicks, even if I have the AMT Slicks Parts Box. This has been way too long as a Back Burner. I got just the inspiration that I needed when we had a Custom Culture Show here in Finland. I was one of the guys who put together the Model Car-area there. We had three display cases for finished builds and five guys who were building models on the other table to show what this hobby really is. Of course I needed something to fit the theme and I thought "This is it". I scratchbuilt the headers from solder. Header Flanges are made out of sheet styrene. When I got all eight pipes on their place and glued on, I made the collectors from the same material as I used for those injector stacks, but of course a larger diameter one. I also started building the floor, but it's in very beginning stages and I'll post a picture of it when I get some more work done with it. Anyway, here are a couple of pictures of the headers I made. And here is our place in the show. Unfortunately you can see me building this Fiat in the picture, too. Here are all pics from the show: http://tapahtumakuvia.kuvat.fi/kuvat/Tapahtumat+2014/Custom+Culture+Show+15.-16.2.2014/

That Stock version looks excellent! Really nice paint job and very sharp BMF work, too. Very interesting subject as well, one of those cars I'd like to build, too. The Stock version is really nice and clean, the other one is done nicely, too, but the wheels just don't fit into this body. It's nicely done, though.

Yep there are many kits with this problem, and I think it's quite annoying. It's an easy fix, but anyway it should be right. I rarely use all chassis parts from the kit without any modifications or scratchbuilding, though, so luckily that's not a very big deal for me. The tires are a bigger problem. I have no problem with tires having no sidewall detail. I can always add tire text decals if I want to. That already makes a difference. A bigger problem is tire size. Many kits have way too small tires that look like Lowrider tires to me. For example AMT '67 Impala has this problem that needs to be fixed.

Great looking AWB '57 Ford! I like the headers a lot and it sits just right like that. Great job as always. Well that would be the only way to make a Mopar faster, nicer or more reliable... (Just Kidding Here)

Yep, the Roll Bar Padding is easy to make from Tamiya's masking tape. Just paint it black. I did just that on my Ford Torino Stock Eliminator (That is still in progress.....). Roll cage is pretty simple to build from styrene tubing. Though it's not that simple to get all correct measurements and stuff like that, but once those are done, it's easier to actually build the cage. When you're bending the tube, heat it very carefully with a candle so lightly that it won't melt. Here is a completely scratchbuilt cage for my '69 Torino Talladega:

I'm glad the pics could help. If you need help with the wiring or where they connect, feel free to ask and I can go to check. Power Steering can be deleted. Actually I've never seen a Stocker with power steering. A/C is Air Conditioning? If so, that's not necessary, either.

I guess you'd get more answers if this was posted in Drag Racing Models. I don't know the best way to make those, as I have never tried building them. I'm interested in hearing the answer, though, when someone says it.

I'm glad these pictures did help. The water pump is made by Proform. I don't know if that's the smallest one, but it is pretty good.

And the little part that is in the picture above, is Fuel Pressure Regulator. This Brake Balance Adjuster is installed on rear tires' brake line. Then there is the driveshaft loop. There is a picture of the whole engine.

For headers I've used solder, and it works fine. I'll try to scratchbuild ones for Grumpy's Toy Nova from plastic tube, but I don't know if I'm going to make it or not... Today I was taking a couple of pictures. It's highly possible that I've forgot to take pics of some parts, but here is something. Electric water pump. The second pic shows how lower water hose connects on it. Ignition Coil. I have never seen these in 1/25 scale. I've only seen Accel coils, that I think are older versions than this one. With the electric water pump, the Alternator Belt is really simple: Wilwood Brake Master Cylinder with Line Lock setup. A Close up shot of the Line Lock. And here is the Line Lock Button on the shifter (The red one). The gas tank is mostly in the trunk, but a part of it comes through the floor. The next part is Allstar Performance Fuel Filter, and then there is Holley Fuel Pump.

Wow, that's interesting! I really like '62 and especially '63 Impalas. In my opinion the winning team is GM, though. The body is polished now. It turned out Okay, even if there are a couple of problems with the decals. Anyway it's not that bad. Next thing is the BMF, which has never been my favorites in model building. Sorry the pics are not the best.

This will be an interesting build! I just completed the same kit a couple of weeks ago. Your wheel and tire choice looks much better than mine, I can't wait to see how it turns out. Are you going to use the kit's original interior that is...Well, a bit simplified. I scratchbuilt new door panels and trunk for mine and modified other parts. It turned out pretty good, and it was not an impossible task to do.

I visited in other two Hobby Shops. Well I didn't find the Hex Rod from the first shop, but I left with Revell '66 Chevy Impala that will be a Stock Eliminator Drag Car, one bottle of Alclad Chrome and Humbrol Gloss Black. The second shop had Plastruct stuff and I bought the hex rod from there. Now I made the drain plug. I don't know where it should be, but since I saw many different places for that, I decided to install mine on the side of the oil pan. I also added a bolt to the oil filter tube (What is the real name for it?).

Today when the hood was completely dry, I put the decals on. That red stripe was a real pain to get properly on place, but finally I made it. Those 409 decals fit much better. The red stripe needs some Micro Sol, but I should have the hood clear coated pretty soon...

Yep, I'll take some detail pics tomorrow of our Chevelle. I like building these Stockers as scale models. They are a lot simpler than Pro Mods or other Doorslammers, but still these need some extra work, and some of those things are something that everyone can't see, but it's nice to know that "I did it right". But when moving to Super Stock, the cars need a lot more modifications. Super Stockers are very cool, though, especially the fast SS/GT cars that Dale mentioned. I've seen Harri Hassinen's SS/BM Chevy Camaro when it was in progress and of course running in the strip as well, and those SS/GT cars are really a lot more complicated than regular Super Stockers. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6TPGWbw5mS8

Are you going to build a Modern Day Stocker or an older version? And when Chevy Small Blocks look the same, it doesn't matter what SBC the pictures are from. If you're building a modern day Stocker, I can take engine detail pics of our Chevelle for you. Will your Monte Carlo be a SS or just the regular "Base Model"? And when you decide what engine and transmission you'll be using (Automatic or Manual), I can tell you the class that the car runs in.

What kind of pictures you need? Pics of '86 Monte Carlos in general or pics of some specific Monte Carlo Stocker or pics of something else? Here are some pictures of Factory Stock Monte Carlo: http://www.carsforsale.com/used_cars_for_sale/1986_chevrolet_monte+carlo_211902294_6 What engine you'll be using? This will be an interesting project.

I just bought a bottle of Alclad Chrome and I need some ideas how should I use it. I've seen many threads about this stuff, and I've read them, but I'd like to get simple and easy descriptions or tutorials about this stuff so that everyone could understand how it works. I know it needs a good paint job of Gloss Black for a base. I have Humbrol Gloss Black, that should have no problem. The question is, do you polish the Gloss Black paint job before you spray Alclad? Someone said that he sprays a clear coat before Alclad...Is this a good idea? And if it is, what clear coat should I use so that neither, Alclad nor the black paint would react with it? Alclad should be airbrushed as very thin and light coats, I guess? Someone said Alclad should be sprayed in an angle. If I spray it straight on, it would not work. That is the case? How many coats should I spray? I can't remember who said what as I read lots of information (Lots of Different information). Of course all other important things would be great to hear. I'll practice with AirFix 1/32 Escort bumbers, as I don't want to practice with '60 Plymouth Fury or '61 Phoenix bumbers....

No one builds better Factory Stock Fords than you do. Excellent work as always. That paint job is looking beautiful and I like the color choice a lot. Very nice build.

Nice to see you back on the bench, Romell! I've missed your updates a lot. There are not many modelers who can build something without using any kit parts, or especially those who can scratchbuild the whole engine. Your work is really unbelievable, and I can't wait to see this one finished, as it will be a great "challenger" for your Daytona Pro Mod.

That whole Escape Hatch is Spectacular! I can't believe that the mechanism was scratchbuilt, as it looks so good and it works so good. It is a little detail, but it's a very neat one that takes this build to a completely new level. I've never seen anything like that. Are you going to paint the body with the hatch opened or closed?

Romell: Thanks! I'm really exited to build this car, too. Guy: Thanks, the reference material and input coming from other fellows is going to be very important in this build. I tried to do a good amount of research before I started this one, but I came up with a very little information. I'm glad to see people with lots of great info in here. And I really enjoy your builds, too. You do great work and that '55 Chevy is a real beauty! Tyrone: Thank You! It's great to notice how much my skills have improved because of the great advice and tips I've got. I'm glad to hear that others can notice the same thing. Your work has been a great inspiration! Well I visited the Hobby Shop, but there were no Plastruct products. I will have to go to that City really soon anyway, so I'll stop by on the other shop that sells those things. Meanwhile I could start the interior.