Darren B

Im with both of you, plenty of tutorials on the actual hinging, and I too can do that but would also benefit from a tutorial on the door jams and door sills. or just a good point in the right direction for an all ready established tutorial on here somewhere!

Was loving them, any more?

I love lowriders, this one is coming out great, love the paint!

Awesome tutorial, thank you very much for sharing that will come in handy and a lot of builds I have lined up.

Thank you it took me a while. Thank you, was looking for ghost patterns, a few more coats of candy green and they would have dissappeared. Got the wheels and tires on it, all done except some other hood detailing, will post pics this afternoon when i wake up for work.

Fantastic work I love the weathering on the seats on the interior. Awesome job.

Got it almost complete last night...

More pics

Been working on this one on and off for close to two years. Almost complete.

Awesome ideas, I love little tips and tricks like this for the small details, keep em coming it never hurts to have a full toolbox of techniques up ones sleeve...

I agree never hurts to have a full toolchest of techniques in this hobby. More than one way to skin a cat as they say!!!

Cool, thanks for all the quick replies, I have always finished the outside first, then after that dried did the inside but always would get some kind of blemish on the outside. Parafilm sounds good, probably will just paint inside first that way if something goes wrong wont show as bad on the outside.

How do you hold the hood? Im working on the new 442 old hurst convert and its the first hood that I have had that has a hole for the tie down and I just put a tooth pick thru the hole, but is there something easier to hold the hood? or just use tape, I guess im trying to over engineer this part of model building.

This problem has perplexed me for 25 years. How do you all paint the hood then the inside or vice versa. I always paint the outside, then carefully brush paint the inside. However I do not get a good coating that best replicates the look that it should like. Just curious.

I always use the very hot water to warm up the can, makes it come out smooth as glass especially all the high gloss clear coats i put on for the final coats, just this white for some reason didn't dry, 'cept now i shot some testors glosscoat laquer over it and sanded it down and shot a few coats and its like glass and dry to the touch right now! That would never have happened with enamel, Id still be waiting for the white to dry. thanks every one for their replies....

4 pages? probably more like 15 pages... My reason is if people see my work and they tell me what I'm doing wrong, then I can be a better modeler.

wow i thought that laquer would eat enamel, after reading all these post i shot testors glosscoat clear over the white paint this morning and tonight i am actually doing some sanding on it to knock down the orange peel for a finished clear coat top coat tomorrow. I would use enamel clear gloss (about 3-4 coats) and have to let that stuff sit for months till it was able to be handled with no finger prints in the clear. Using laquer is going to speed up my builds by weeks if not months. Thanks again for all the response!!!

wow what company kitted a 1/8th scale Anglia?

Cool I for sure am gonna have to try that. Thanks for sharing, i was wondering about hoods and doors.

Cranky could explain it better but the magnets let you change up builds for variety. Check out the very lastest issue of Model cars, it shows being able to change out parts of the build like grilles and other things on a post apoc build that Cranky wrote and built. It also has other uses as well. What i have planned in an up and coming build is for a sci fi project, that I have been working on of a 1/6th scale star wars battle droid. Using magnets I can make it possible to take off the back pack and put it back on, and to make it poseable on and off the stap. I have already articulated the hands to hold a custom made resin pistol and with the mags can have it possible to take the gun out of its hands too. Mags have a great many possibilities only limited to the imagination. Until Cranky and his latest article, i never thought of using magnets in a build. This opens up a whole new world of modeling.

your right i tried and it wouldn't stick to anything so i was at the local hobby lobby and found these! there small and a power of ten, very strong, now 10 for 2.99 seems high but using the 40% off coupon made it 1.89 with tax, so not to bad. I already took the magnets off the card just showing you the card case you go and want to try them out. They are about a 1/4" in diameter.

I totally love criticism in my modeling, if im not doing something right, or can approve on some aspect of my modeling then heck yeah, i wan't to know, but its true there or some people that may not take to kindly to it.

I think then testors is just not good paint then enamel or laquers.