Longbox55

I have to correct myself, the Suburbans and Panels are Jada, not Maisto. I should have know better on that, too, as I have about a half dozen or so of them.

The 6 hole wheel that's shown in the Resto Pack is for a 1 1/2 ton or larger truck. However, I have seen a 5 hole wheel shown in the factory literature that's very similar. But pretty much all of the original trucks I've seen in person had the 8 hole wheel. Good chance both were used, depending on who supplied the factories with wheels. One more thing I can add. Here's a good shot showing the differences from the 1/2 and 3/4 ton chassis compared to the 1 and 1 1/2 ton chassis.

It would be on the 1:1, but the scale wheels aren't made that way. The fronts are different from the rears on the die cast. On the rears, the inner and outer wheels are made in 1 piece. Any time I've used that site, it only takes about a minute or less to upload. It's about a 211 page, counting blanks pages, file, you might have to scroll down a bit to get into the information.

The bed from the Ford kit will be very short, by about 4 scale feet. The original issue AMT '60-'63 Chevy truck did have a stake option, But it was for a 98" bed (correct for the 127" wheelbase 1/2 ad 3/4 ton), rather than the 109" bed found on the 133" wheelbase 1 ton. As far as I know, I don't think any of the resin caster are doing those wheels. Might have to some more checking on that.

http://i.ebayimg.com/02/!CC0ITNQBWk~$(KGrHqUOKnQEz37H1e5mBNMd(WBh!!~~_12.JPG This is the Welly I was talking about (note, this is not my listing, only best example pic I could find). Look for the ones with the silver wheels, not the chrome. Seems the chrome version have the same oversize wheel that the Jada has. The rear wheels on the truck you've pictured are the correct style. Those were used up to at least '69, perhaps to '72. Here's the link the GM Heritage main page https://www.gmheritagecenter.com/gm-heritage-archive/vehicle-information-kits.html The files are in a PDF format. If that's a factory flatbed, or platform as they called in the literature, the beds are more or less the same, only the platform simply does not have the sides on it.

The song actually was out a year before the movie was made. Another thing about the Falfa '55, the engine in it was an L-88 427, which didn't come out until 5 years after the year the movie took place it. Even the engine block it was based on was 3 years later. That's why they never showed the car with its hood up. On the scale replica side of things, pretty much every die cast of that car inaccurately has a W block engine in it, rather than the correct Mark IV engine. Most also have an incorrect hood on them, too, using a stock hood with a scoop. The Ertl 1/18 scale version (also sold as the Two Lane Blacktop car) is only one I've seen correct tilt nose front end.

I guess if he's trying to make himself look like he doesn't know anything about proper setup, or doesn't care, he's doing a good job at that.

I've been using Duplicolor clear, too. If you have an airbrush or a small touch up gun, the Paint Shop clear is the best deal. Quart can for about $25 at most parts stores. Meijer is also currently carrying it, but they might be phasing it out as they have it on clearance (they cleared out all their automotive sprays, too). I've tested in on just about all of the common hobby finishes, even Testors enamel and Tamiya acrylic, without any ill effects. They also have an acrylic lacquer clear in a spry can that lays now very nice. I originally got it for a different 1:1 project, but tried on a body and was very pleased with the final product. Very smooth, didn't even need a polishing afterwards.

The chassis will pretty much have to be scratch built from the rear cab mounts back. The 1 ton used a different frame from the 1/2 and 3/4 tons. The rear frame rails are different, and is setup for leaf springs instead of coils. You'll also need to scratch build the rear axle, there are no scale replicas of the H)72 axle that the 1:1 used. The GM Heritage site https://www.gmheritagecenter.com/docs/gm-heritage-archive/vehicle-information-kits/Chevrolet-Trucks/1960-Chevrolet-Truck.pdf has all the dimensions you'll need, plus a few pics of the suspension and chassis components. I also put this in your other post, the Welly 1/24 scale '53 Chevy tow truck has the correct dual wheels. Don't use the Jada version, it's wheels are way out of scale.

If you can find one, the Welly 1/24 scale '53 Chevy tow truck die cast (not the Jada version) has the correct wheels for that conversion.

OK. Pretty obvious he knows nothing about proper tire to wheel fitment or proper alignment settings. I'm 100% positive my I beam axle pickup handles better. Probably rides better, too.

The idea with the hobby paint booths isn't to keep foreign material and dust out of the paint. They are intended to evacuate and control the propellant/reducer/thinner fumes and overspray created by spraying paint in an indoor environment. A fully enclosed booth would be ideal, but impractical given the size of the parts that are generally painted and methods of applying said paint.

The Maisto Suburbans are 1/24. They also have a somewhat inaccurate Panel based on the same tool.

The wheels might fit, but too bad he didn't get tires that actually fit the wheels properly. Bet that thing handles terrible.

Something messed up in that last posting. Smooth On also has a series of how to videos. http://www.smooth-on.com/media.php

Smooth

That also applies when driving stock vintage cars with original brakes and steering.

I don't disagree with you, John. I guess when I talk about the "have to" upgrades that get pushed, it's usually that one "has to" put Mustang 2 suspension/frame swap, or install a modern engine/transmission/rearend just to even make a car or truck usable on todays roads. Like I said, I don't have problems with upgrades or alterations if that's what the owner wants. I do agree that radial tires are probably one the best upgrades that can be done on an old car, and a brake upgrade will not hurt anything. I will admit, I've never had any problems with the stock single circuit 4 wheel drums in my truck as far as stopping power, but mine does have 3/4 ton hydraulics with 1/2 ton friction and drums (the 3200 came factory that way). That said, have I considered putting power disk brakes on it? Yes. I looked into it when I built the truck originally, but really wasn't impressed with what was available at the time. Most of it was based on GM Metric brakes, which are good brakes. I felt they were a little light for a truck that would still gat used for hauling. Plus, at the time, they only came in 5 lug, and I really did not want to change out the rearend to get 5 lug on the back. So I simply rebuilt it to tock specs. Only mistake I made there was DOT 5 silicone fluid. Never again with that stuff. If I were to do a disk brake upgrade, I will build my own using parts for a late model GMT800/900 1/ ton brake parts. I have a pattern for the front to allow for the calipers to mount to the I beam, and the rear I'm certain I can adapt without issue. The booster for the master cylinder is the only issue, as there isn't much room around the shifter linkage. But that's not really a priority for me now, as the stock system is serving me just fine. I do agree with you 100% on the LED lighting. I've actually converted the '55 to LED lighting for the brake and turn signals front and rear. The rear is a Technostalgia kit that uses the stock housings. It has a panel of LEDs the go behind the lens, rather than just a bulb. The front have a 24 led amber illunination bulb in the stock housings. I like those because the are clear when they are off, so they don't show through the clear lens unless the lights are on. I also have a Hollywood Accessories model 554 Saf-T-Lite mounted to the bed Inside it, instead of the original bulb, I lined with LED strips I'm also running clear LEDs in my backup lights. Once they can come up with a retro fit LED headlamp that fits existing housings, I am planning to change them as well.

I just to want to be clear on my take; I am not anti hot rod or resto mod by any means. I even freely admit my own truck isn't stock. Fact is, I like a well executed hot rod or even a resto mod. I only take issue with those who claim that an old car "has to" be "upgraded" to be able to drive them on todays roads.

About 17 right now.

In my experience, the Evo and Mustang kids might have laughed, or at least until they got their doors blown off by the '67 New Yorker we were in. But then again, they didn't expect that "stock" 440 under the hood to actually be a 537 cid stroker engine. Used to do the same thing with a '49 Chevy 1 ton truck, Sucker 'em in and put 'em in their place!

Towards the end of the original run, they did keep up with current trends, same as Hot Rod Magazine did. As far as Trosley goes, I personally like his work. What the problem was that the started really pushing Krass & Bernie too much, to the point that a good 1/3rd of the issue was devoted to K & B stories. If you check out his other work, Trosley is definitely not a one story artist. I was also a big fan of Shawn Kerri, loved her work.

From the 1986 Auto World catalog.