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Posts posted by bigmikevee

  1. Hey Jim,

    This is just beautiful! This is your best yet, and I know you must be proud of it. Man, this is sweet enough to eat. Post some more pictures, we didn't satisfy our sweet tooth yet.

    For what it is worth, my lady friend does a lot of beading, and the stuff you can find at Hobby Lobby, Michaels, Walmart, etc. can really, as you have shown, be used to great effect, I brouse through those aisles too when I go to the store, lots of little tools and treasures, try some of their beading wire too, looks great and can be perfect scale for our uses.

    Man Jim, this is just one great looking car, keep up the good work buddy, and thanks for posting.


  2. Hey Jim,

    Man oh man oh man oh man I like this one a lot, your work is just really nice, and your skills are getting where I know you want them. One car at a time right? This just looks so good, color sets off the lines, I really love it when the paint job compliments the lines, that is what separates "art" from a painted model. Good job Jim.

    Ok, here are my stupid questions though.....you put on the silver basecoat afterwards, at least that is what I thought it said. What did you put down as primer or basecoat for the colorshift? Is the colorshift enamel or lacquer and is it "hot" for the plastic? Thanks for answers Jim, man this is one sweet ride buddy!!


  3. Welcome to all the new guys, I see some of you have just posted for the first time, please place your trays in the upright positions and fasten your seatbelts, we will be experiencing turbulence for the next few.................(insert your own timeframe here.)

  4. Hey Matthew,

    How is my buddy doing, hope things are going well with you, know you were a little down, really glad to hear from you!!

    Ok, there is a guy names Metzler, Metzer (please no disrespect intended here, just can't remember his name) who I read makes a resin rear-wheel conversion kit with the wheel, tire and fender included for these bikes. I was going to try him for other parts, but I can't find him. I think he is the guy I was thinking of for the Webers as well, I am going to try and search online some more. Hopefully this will trigger someone's memory, I have never seen 300's on a bike, but saw a picture of them as packaged and they really looked good. Somebody to the rescue!!

    Hang in there Highway, if I find out more, I'll update, you do the same. See ya Matthew, and thanks to everyone who is going to get into the search with us.


  5. Hey Gang,

    I am looking for parts for the 1/12 Revell Choppers, I thought I had read somewhere that someone was making Weber carbs, forks, air cleaners, etc. for these. Anybody know who makes any aftermarket parts besides the 300 rear tire conversion? Looking for just about anything to spice these bikes up, a little bare for my tastes, but still a lot of fun. Any help is appreciated. thanks.


  6. Hey Mike,

    Wow, I love this build, you stopped at just the right point too, any more would have taken away the impact, you called it just right. Looks great, thanks for posting how about a tutorial on the real fire flames for us? Thanks.


  7. Hey Gang,

    Good replies so far, Dave brought up some good questions too. Dave, the pads sand and level the finish, it has to get level before it will get the proper shine on it, from really really shiny to natural shine, to even a flat look, sand it first. If you polish, the polish we use in modeling will not take care of all the orange peel, it just doesn't "cut " deep enough, you will just get shiny orange peel. The pads will rinse up nicely, Micro-Mark has a nice set with 6 grits, I have used the same set on 6 or 7 cars so far, the key to the pads is first and foremost, a light touch, let them do the work, e-z does it, also, you have to keep them wet, what I do is sand over the sink, keep a bowl of water in sink, and dunk the pad every few seconds, when it stops dripping as you sand, dunk again, you will get a feel for it. Polish after sanding, and the shine will just be wonderful. If you want a flat finish, sand your color then dullcoat if you want. Oh, you can get the products in either pads or sheets, the pads are about 3/16" thick, with a layer on each side and foam in the middle, bend and handle better than the flat sheets, which are just basic sandpaper sheets. I tried both ways, pads just feel so much better and are easier to grip and control. Just my thought.

    Another thing I have noticed is sometimes we think the clearcoat will cover up orange peel, if it is minor, is should turn out okay, but....if the orange-peel or any other blemish is in place when you clear, you will still see imperfections. But if you sand and level the paint surface with the pads, then clearcoat, you will see what I mean. How I got started with the pads is I took an old model I didn't care for and just did the roof, e-z access to hold, paint, sand and polish, tried techniques to see what happened, then I stripped it and painted it again. Just like spraying a spoon, but a bigger, flatter area to experiment with. Just tried over and over. Oh, first time you sand, try without the water for 30 second just so you can see how much paint you are removing, you would be surprised. And as already stated, don't always go to the lowest grit, you will learn which one to start with as you look at your finish, some need more leveling than others. Once you get the color coat level, don't worry about how shiny it is and don't polish it, just sand with pads. Make sure color coat is clean and dry, then do your clearcoat over it, whether shiny or flat, you will really notice how smooth it is. Then, if you want to get it even smoother, sand out the clearcoat, then polish the clearcoat out. I always finish with Novus 3 step polishing kit, great stuff. This will give you the shiniest finish you never thought you could get, just amazing!!

    I hope this helps, I didn't really understand it at all until one weekend I just jumped in. I had the pads and the Novus for over a year but was afraid I would ruin something. Take your time, light touch, keep pads wet and you will just love your results.


  8. Hey Gang,

    I am trying to expand my detailing to include heater hose and radiator hose clamps. Have read some people cut thin strips from BMF, what else do you use? I thought about small silver wire or silver thread for the illusion, but know there are probably better ways.

    Have also seen photo-etched clamps, but don't know how user friendly or who makes good ones, who do you suggest?

    How about posting some pictures and results for us, I would be very appreciative!! Thanks to all who reply.


  9. Wow, very cool...is that a slot car as well? That would really look cool flying around the track, strap down the boards!! Not sure what I am seeing under front bumper, these eyes aren't as young as they were yesterday. This is one cool ride, that's for sure, Jarius, you did a great job!!


  10. Hey Jonathan,

    You have gotten really good answers from the gang so far, it just takes time to learn another new step, but the end results will be worth it. Pads will last for awhile, you will notice if not working, if you wet-sand (just dunk pads in water or sand under faucet) and use an easy touch, they will slowly level out paint job, agree with not going to the lower numbers unless you have a really bad finish to start with. Do be careful around raised areas, edges and script so you don't polish away all the paint. Just take your time. Also, Novus makes a 3-stage polishing kit that is just so easy to use and the results are fantastic. Use this after you have used the pads. Polishing takes time to master and time to do, but you will just not believe how good the results will be. I use flannel to polish, try Micro-Mark for flannel and other items you might need. Good luck, post some results for us.


  11. Hey Brett,

    Wow, are you doing a lot of work or what? 4 cars at once, that is crazy cool!! Really like what you are doing, can't wait to see more, appreciate your tips on the decals, something I have thought about for awhile, you did a really good job trimming the ones on the cars. Hope to see more and can't wait to see the completed set screaming down the highway!! Thanks for posting.


  12. Hey George,

    If you are using Testors acrylic paint try windshield-washer fluid, the blue stuff in the gallon jug. I can't remember who on the forums told me to try it for thinning (sorry), but it works great on acrylics. Since acrylics dry so fast, you can also dip a q-tip in the fluid then use for a quick wipe if they clog your airbrush tip. Use about 60% paint and 40% washer fluid, works like a charm. I really like acrylics, one you get used to them, they are very nice. Good luck, hope I helped a little bit.


  13. So now the moderators can make judgements (quite erroneously I might add) about someone's mental stability, abilities or well being? If you are extremely well educated in the field of psychology or well-versed in psycho-analytical terminology, that's one thing, but if you just aren't.....then stop.

    Man, what are you guys doing to this place, John apologized because he was attacked and responded in kind. Push the kindest person in the world into a corner, and they will respond in accordance to the situation. Go back and review John's posts from day one, then perhaps a lot more apologies are in order. Someone gets pushed enough and strikes back, happens every day, doesn't it?

    Why can't people just start talking about model cars again? I just can't help but wonder why so many people just won't start talking about model cars again, and why everyone can't stop with the last word and everything else?

    I should be a bigger, better man than this, but seeing one of my favorite builders under fire makes me take a stand.

    Please stop this, and get back to the business at hand.

  14. Hey John,

    I am sorry you feel you have to apologize, in my book, you have nothing to apologize for. You have always been kind and gracious and generous with your replies, you have responded to a LOT of questions (including a bunch from me) on technique, how you did something, what you are trying to do, etc. and I for one am glad you are here. Your builds speak for themselves, anytime you put something you love up on public display, well, you can seen what happens, thank goodness not all the time, but.....

    Your builds inspire me, they entertain me, they motivate me to try a little harder, be a little more patient, and to keep the passion going. I build because it is a passion, and I believe you do too. Just keep doing what you do, don't respond to the negative, just do your thing brother. Look forward to seeing more of your work, and hope you stick around for a long time.


  15. Hey Gary,

    Man, I like this a lot! You really must have had fun with this one, that era of cars was just so special, nice, nice car. Just parts worked out good for this ride, do it again! Thanks for posting.


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