Matt Bacon

If you can get them in the US (Megahobby seems to stock them), Humbrol Metalcote Polished Aluminium and Polished Steel are great buffing metallisers. The Aluminium goes from fine matt silver to reflective and slightly darker, and is handy for aircraft where you can mask panels and change the appearance in a patchwork like real “natural metal” airframes. It’s also good for aluminium castings on cars to get some differentiation between highlights and recesses. But the Steel is amazing… it starts out dark matt gray, but the more and the harder you polish it, the more chrome-like it gets. It’s great for things like brakes, where a light polish results in a cast iron look for the hubs, and firmly pressing on the discs with a chamfered matchstick gives you the polished metal of the disc surface… best, M.

Tamiya, for example, has always excelled at delivering outstanding detail in relatively few parts. The entire chassis and suspension of the 90s NSX is about 10 parts but builds up into a detailed and accurate replica that just needs some (quite involved) painting to bring it to life… best, M.

Cool! The Revell Snap-tite 63 Corvette Coupe is very nice and a simple build: It’s not quite in your era, but I also very much enjoyed the Moebius Chrysler 300… best, M.

What kind of cars would you like to build? It’s helpful to know to guide recommendations. You’ll have more fun and are more likely to finish something that you want on your shelf. For example, there are some excellent “easy click” or “snap kit” from Revell or Aoshima but they aren’t of US period originals… best, M.

Apologies for muckiness. It doesn't half pick up grease and dust when you're wrestling the glass into the body, and the whole thing together for a test fit... The rear screen and engine cover does open as it should and close tight, which I call a result. Of course, it doesn't _stay_ open on its own, but I'll figure out some solution. Quick test on the chassis. That rear light panel was a complete nightmare to paint. I've never had any luck spraying the Tamiya clear colors... I just can't get the consistency right. So it's a lot of coats of thinned brushed paint. It looks ropey if you hold it up to the light directly, but in situ it's OK. Time to crack on and complete the black, black and more black interior... best, M.

These guys clearly did: best, M.

I managed to get the clear coat on in the cool of yesterday evening... I though outdoors in diffuse sunlight was probably my best shot at capturing the color accurately. Even I am amazed by how much the clearcoat brings the paint to life, and subtly swings the color to a more blue-green, as it should be. If you compare these, especially the last one, to the picture of the real thing at the top of the thread, I think we'd all agree that Steve has done a pretty good job of matching the color! best, M.

I’ve never seen one, or at least not an up to date one. A whole lot have never had a full detail option. As for the Enthusiast Models, your best bet is to locate one that is definitely an EM kit on Scalemates, and look at the “timeline”. For the 911, for example, they quietly re-released the early 911S and 911R in ordinary-looking boxes with all the EM parts a couple of years back. Which made a couple of my eBay saved searches irrelevant… best, M.

They’ve announced the 2024 McLaren which should be available towards the end of the year. I’m expecting to see a built up one at Scale Model World (IPMS UK Nats) in November, but probably not to be able to buy one until later. No one is going to give them access to a current season car early enough to kit it in the same year, I don’t think… best, M.

This color is rather hard to photograph, especially in the velvet texture of the Zero basecoat. Anyone who's used them will also know how much the appearance of Zero Paints colors changes when you apply the clearcoat. I'm not sure when I'll get to do the clearcoat. As a two part mix that actually cures rather than just drying, it's very sensitive to heat. Your working time drops rapidly the hotter it is, and the last thing I want is to be trying to apply the final wet coat when the mix has started to cure (that way you get orange peel, for sure). The workshop is about 34 degrees C at the moment... 😜 best, M.

I assume this one is just warming us up for the last-season one coming towards the end of the year… best, M.

The 250 GTO is one of Fujimi's gems, for sure. It's a much later kit than the Enthusiast Model series, but has engine detail, and you can pick up a box with a fabulous set of metal wire wheels in it, though the regular plastic ones are pretty darn good. best, M.

Definitely worth doing some research. You can find unboxing videos, and 1999.co.jp (Google “name of kit 1999.co.jp”) has viewable instructions for most kits. Fujimi kits in my experience are a mixed bag. As mentioned, the Enthusiast Model kits are complex and amazingly detailed. They are also often boxed without the Enthusiast branding (often as Manga tie-ins) or as regular “Red box” kits, sometimes without detail parts trees (eg no engine). Check instructions for particular boxings to see what you’re going to get. There are regular curb side kits. Many newer ones are well shaped and have accurate if simplified detail. Older ones are often over-simplified and sometimes compromised by having been designed to be battery powered back in the day. But they are often the only game in town. Some kits are not strictly 1/24 scale: the accurate Tamiya 240Z body fits neatly inside the Fujimi one, for example. Fujimi often plays fast and loose with versions of the basic car. The box may call it one thing, with accurate, well done box art, but it’s writing checks the plastic can’t cash. What you get inside is the same in three boxes, perhaps with an extra parts tree (say, seats and steering wheel). The FIAT mentioned above is one example. The RX-7 Spirit R is another: you get a few different decals and some Recaro seats, but the nose/front clip is not modified at all into the distinctively different Spirit R version with more aggressive aero. Your best bet is to tell us what cars you want to build, and the collective wisdom of the MC tribe will chime in on which kits/boxes to get, and which to avoid. Plus you might get a chorus of “Buy the Aoshima/Tamiya kit instead”… best, M.

Quick test fit with the wheels: Well, they certainly fill the arches. Arguably a bit too much, but I think that might be the price for using the Fujimi wheels, which are probably "inch-up", on the Tamiya kit. best, M.

The suspension is finished. Like the rear, the front assembly is primarily two big parts, a main frame with upper wishbones and the lower frame. Very nicely detailed and molded, though. Engine in place for a test. It looks reasonable through the mesh, but I think I'll add a few wires and hoses to busy up the space at the left between the heads and the airbox/fluid reservoir parts. Now I need to make some progress on the body. best, M.

I had the good luck to drive one at a nearby museum’s “Drive Dad’s Car” experiences. Getting in and settling down feels like climbing into the cockpit of a WW2 fighter and strapping it on… it’s so compact. Your feet are way out against the footwell wall because of the huge transmission tunnel. But get it going… that smell is so evocative. Leather, old rubber, fuel. It took me straight back to Air Cadet days flying a 1950s era Chipmunk. I loved it, but I can now imagine just how much hard work it must have taken to wrestle and pilot one non stop Rome-Liege-Rome at ten-tenths. Those folks had real cojones. Or in Pat Moss’s case, didn’t… best, M.

You're making that one up.... best, M.

In increasing order of the likelihood of actually owning one: a 911 Reimagined by Singer, a Cayman GT4, an Alpine A110, a Lotus Elan, a regular Cayman, an Aston Martin DB7, a Jaguar XKR and an MX-5... best, M.

Sounds like it could be Model Factory Hiro… they started in 1989. best, M.

It was too hot to hit the bench early last week, and work got in the way the second half, but things are moving again now... Again, very typical Tamiya... that perfectly-fitting lower subframe with wishbones and control arms is one crisply molded piece with slightly complex painting instructions... The back end looks properly busy, though. "Kevlar" backed seats. You're probably thinking "they look pretty crude..." ...but given that this is what you can see (BEFORE the body goes on), perhaps I might be excused..? 😜 best, M.

Sadly, I don’t… best, M.

Sections 1 and 2 of the instructions completed! The engine is very typical Tamiya: only 6 parts, but with very complex painting instructions, enhanced by the many detail photos of the real thing that are available online. Similarly, the exhaust is only three parts, but this time the "all-over chrome" painting directions are a bit simplistic, especially for an NSX-R... The single-piece chassis is also nicely detailed with a little careful painting. Quick mockup suggests it will fit together nicely. From the other side.... One of the reasons it's worth spending a bit of time on the engine. The NSX-R has a mesh panel over the engine, whereas the NSX has a solid trimmed "parcel shelf." On the left, the Fujimi part, trimmed and extended to match the size and shape of the Tamiya part on the right. This should mean that the engine is visible even with cover closed, but also the Tamiya rear window is hinged and can open, so it's possible to expose the engine to full view... best, M.

As someone who's building the earlier kit now, I _think_ from time to time it is confusing the "new NSX" kit with the old one, but without some pretty specialist hands-on experience you wouldn't know...best, M.

For various (professional) reasons, I've had a to do a bit of work with Claude the AI large language model today. Now, I'm very skeptical about LLMs generally, and also deeply unhappy about the way their training is plundering real actual creative people's efforts, to create a money-generating tool for billionaires... So this is just an experiment. What follows is what Claude produced when I asked for a build review of the early '90s Tamiya NSX kit (which I happen to be building right now, so I'm well-attuned to what you might or might not say about it....) ---------- Build Diary & Review: Tamiya 1/24 Honda NSX-R A Classic Kit That Still Delivers After Three Decades Kit: Tamiya 24100 Honda NSX-R Scale: 1/24 First Release: 1992 Review Sample: Re-release version Skill Level: Intermediate Estimated Build Time: 15-20 hours Introduction When Tamiya first released their 1/24 scale Honda NSX-R in 1992, the real car was making waves as Honda's answer to Ferrari and Porsche. Now, over thirty years later, this kit remains a testament to Tamiya's engineering excellence and attention to detail. As someone who's built dozens of automotive models, I was curious to see how this classic kit holds up against modern standards and whether it still deserves a place in today's model builder's collection. The NSX-R represents Honda at their absolute peak of engineering prowess – a naturally aspirated V6 VTEC masterpiece wrapped in aluminum bodywork that could embarrass supercars costing twice as much. Tamiya's interpretation of this iconic machine promised to capture that essence in 1/24 scale, complete with the car's distinctive pop-up headlights and clean, purposeful lines. First Impressions & Kit Contents Opening the familiar Tamiya box immediately reveals why this manufacturer has maintained such a stellar reputation. The parts are molded in a beautiful pearl white plastic that captures the NSX's signature Championship White perfectly. The plastic quality is exceptional – minimal flash, crisp detail lines, and that characteristic Tamiya "feel" that experienced builders will recognize instantly. The kit contains approximately 120 parts across six sprues, plus chrome-plated pieces, clear parts, rubber tires, and a comprehensive decal sheet. What immediately strikes you is the thoughtful engineering – parts are logically arranged and sized appropriately for hand assembly. Unlike some manufacturers who seem to split parts arbitrarily, every separation here serves a purpose, whether for assembly ease or detail enhancement. The instruction manual is typically excellent Tamiya fare – clear exploded diagrams, logical assembly sequence, and helpful notes about paint colors and assembly techniques. The color callouts reference both Tamiya and generic color standards, though I'd recommend sticking with Tamiya paints for the best color match. Assembly: Day One - Interior & Chassis I began with the interior, always a good starting point for automotive models as it sets the foundation for everything else. The NSX-R's cabin is beautifully detailed, with separate pieces for the seats, dashboard, center console, and door panels. The attention to detail here is remarkable – the bucket seats have proper bolster definition, the dashboard includes separate instrument clusters, and even the gear lever is a separate piece. One immediate challenge presents itself: the interior is molded in black plastic, but the real NSX-R featured extensive use of carbon fiber-look trim pieces. The kit provides decals for these areas, but they're quite extensive and require careful application. I chose to paint these sections with Tamiya X-18 Semi Gloss Black first, then apply the carbon fiber decals over the painted surface. This extra step provides much better adhesion and a more convincing finish. The pedal assembly deserves special mention – three separate pieces that perfectly capture the NSX's distinctive pedal layout. These tiny parts are almost too delicate, requiring careful handling and a steady hand during assembly. I used CA glue sparingly, as the fit is so precise that excess adhesive would easily ruin the detail. Builder's Tip: Test fit everything twice before gluing. Tamiya's engineering is so precise that if something doesn't fit perfectly, you're probably doing something wrong. Day Two - Engine Bay Detail The NSX's longitudinally-mounted V6 engine is one of the kit's highlights. Split into multiple sections – block, heads, intake manifold, and accessories – the engine builds into a convincing representation of Honda's legendary C30A unit. The level of detail is impressive for a kit of this vintage, with separate pieces for the throttle bodies, various covers, and even the engine mounts. However, this is where the kit's age begins to show slightly. While the basic architecture is correct, some of the finer engine bay details that we'd expect in a modern release are simplified or missing entirely. The wiring harnesses are represented by raised plastic detail rather than separate parts, and some of the smaller accessories are molded integrally with larger components. That said, what's here is beautifully executed. The engine block splits horizontally, allowing the builder to see into the V-formation – a nice touch that adds visual interest even though it won't be visible in the finished model. The exhaust headers are separate pieces that attach convincingly to the block, and the intake manifold features separate throttle body details. Painting the engine requires patience. I used a combination of Tamiya X-10 Gun Metal for the block, X-12 Gold Leaf for the heat shields, and various metallics for accessories. The key is building up the colors gradually and using washes to bring out the detail lines. Day Three - Body Preparation & Paint The NSX's body is molded as a single piece – a bold choice that eliminates panel line issues but requires careful preparation. The surface quality is exemplary, with minimal sanding required beyond basic cleanup of the attachment points. The distinctive character lines that define the NSX's profile are crisply molded and need only light sanding to perfect. However, the real test comes with the pop-up headlights. These iconic features can make or break the model's resemblance to the real car. Tamiya provides them as separate assemblies that can be positioned up or down. The mechanism isn't functional (this isn't a working model), but the choice allows builders to display the car in either configuration. I chose the "up" position as it's more distinctive and showcases one of the NSX's most memorable features. Surface preparation took considerable time. Even though the molding is excellent, achieving a show-quality finish requires progressive sanding with 600, 800, and 1200-grit papers, followed by polishing compound. This is especially critical when using light colors like the Championship White, as any imperfections will be glaringly obvious under the final clear coat. Critical Point: Don't rush the body preparation. The NSX's clean, simple lines mean there's nowhere to hide imperfections. Day Four - Paint Application For the main body color, I chose Tamiya TS-26 Pure White spray can, which provides an excellent color match for the NSX-R's Championship White. Application required three light coats, with light sanding between each coat using 2000-grit paper. The key to a professional finish is patience – rushing this stage will result in orange peel texture or worse. The window trim presented an interesting challenge. The real NSX features black rubber seals around all glass areas, but the kit molds these integrally with the clear parts. I masked these areas carefully and painted them with semi-gloss black, which provides a convincing representation of the rubber seals without the complexity of adding separate parts. The rear spoiler and side air intakes required special attention. These areas feature a textured surface on the real car, which Tamiya has represented through subtle surface texturing on the parts. I highlighted this with a slightly darker shade of white mixed with a tiny amount of gray, applied with a detail brush and immediately blended while wet. Days Five & Six - Final Assembly & Details With all major components painted and detailed, final assembly proceeded smoothly. This is where Tamiya's engineering excellence really shines – everything fits exactly as intended, with no forcing or modification required. The engine drops into the chassis perfectly, the interior assembly slides into place with satisfying precision, and the body fits over everything with minimal adjustment. The wheel and tire assembly deserves special mention. The wheels are beautifully detailed multi-piece affairs that capture the NSX-R's distinctive five-spoke design perfectly. The tires are proper rubber compounds that look and feel realistic. I chose to use the provided tire lettering decals, which add a nice touch of authenticity. The headlight units are perhaps the most critical detail for achieving realism. The clear parts are crystal clear with no distortion, and the internal reflector details are convincingly molded. I enhanced these with a touch of silver paint on the reflector areas and carefully masked the lens areas during painting. One area where the kit shows its age is in the final details. Modern kits often include photo-etched parts for items like grilles, badges, and trim pieces. This kit relies entirely on molded plastic and decals. While the results are good, they lack the ultimate refinement that PE parts can provide. This is a minor criticism, though – the overall effect is still highly convincing. Accuracy Assessment Comparing the finished model to reference photos of the real NSX-R reveals remarkable accuracy in the overall proportions and major design elements. The characteristic profile is spot-on, with the correct relationship between the greenhouse and body sides. The front overhang, wheelbase, and rear proportions all match the real car convincingly. Where the kit particularly excels is in capturing the NSX's distinctive details – the side air intakes are correctly sized and positioned, the rear deck spoiler has the proper profile, and the wheel arch flares are subtly but correctly represented. The pop-up headlights, when raised, provide the correct "surprised" expression that makes the NSX instantly recognizable. Some minor accuracy issues exist, primarily in areas where tooling limitations of the early 1990s show. The door handles are slightly oversized, some of the smaller trim pieces lack the refinement of the real car, and the exhaust outlets are somewhat simplified. However, these are minor nitpicks that don't detract from the overall impression. The interior accuracy is particularly impressive. The distinctive dashboard layout, with its sweep of controls toward the driver, is correctly represented. The seat bolstering, center console design, and even the placement of minor controls like the hazard switch are accurate to the real car. Build Quality & Engineering This kit showcases why Tamiya has maintained their reputation for over six decades. The engineering is logical and builder-friendly, with each assembly step building naturally on the previous one. Parts fit is exceptional throughout – I used minimal amounts of adhesive, relying mainly on the precision fit to hold assemblies together during test fitting. The instruction manual deserves special praise. The exploded diagrams are clear and unambiguous, with helpful notes about paint colors and assembly sequence. Unlike some manufacturers who seem to assume builders have telepathic abilities, Tamiya explains each step clearly and logically. One area where modern kits have surpassed this classic is in the use of alternative materials. Current high-end automotive kits often include photo-etched details, turned metal parts, and even fabric seat belts. This kit is entirely plastic and decals, which limits the ultimate level of detail possible. However, what's here is executed so well that you don't feel shortchanged. Final Assessment After completing this build, I'm struck by how well this thirty-year-old kit holds up against modern standards. While it may lack some of the ultra-fine details found in contemporary releases, the overall execution is still exemplary. The finished model captures the essence of the Honda NSX-R beautifully – the clean lines, purposeful stance, and distinctive character are all present and correct. This kit represents excellent value for money, particularly for intermediate builders looking to develop their skills. The parts quality and fit ensure a frustration-free build experience, while the level of detail provides plenty of opportunities for advanced techniques without being overwhelming. The resemblance to the real car is striking. Viewing the finished model from across the room, you'd be hard-pressed to identify it as a scale replica rather than a photograph of the real thing. The proportions are spot-on, the stance is correct, and the attention to signature details like the pop-up headlights and side intakes makes it instantly recognizable as an NSX. Pros: Exceptional parts fit and quality Accurate proportions and major details Builder-friendly engineering Excellent value for money Clear, comprehensive instructions Cons: Some simplified details show the kit's age Limited use of alternative materials Decals require careful application for best results Recommendation: Highly recommended for intermediate to advanced builders. This classic kit proves that good engineering and attention to detail never go out of style. While it may not have every bell and whistle of a modern release, it delivers where it matters most – an accurate, well-engineered representation of one of the greatest sports cars ever built. Rating: 8.5/10 The Tamiya Honda NSX-R remains a worthy addition to any automotive modeler's collection, proving that some classics never truly age. ___________ This what it produced first time through. I haven't edited the text, or asked it to refine any elements of the "review". Frankly, I'm a wee bit scared by how good it is... best, M.

Are you going to pop the engine into a Hasegawa Stratos? best, M.