Matt Bacon

I dare say I'll see a goodly number of those in action at the Donington Historic racing festival May Day weekend... best, M.

@250 Testa Rossa I made them myself. For small badges like these, I’ve found you don’t need to use decal paper. I found a good logo on the web, sized it down to the diameter I needed for the bosses on the kit, and printed them high resolution and best quality on glossy photo paper. Then, with a fresh #11 blade I cut around the logo, but not too deep — you’re not trying to cut it out of the paper. Finally with a little care and practice you can separate the top layer of the paper with the ink on from the thickness below. I stick them in place with “Formula 560 Canopy Glue” which I have on hand for windows and headlights etc, but a dot of any white PVA type glue will do. I wouldn’t use this method for anything much bigger than a badge or logo, but it beats printing on white or clear decal paper. With white, even when it’s sealed with clear varnish, if you cut close to the print it’ll start to bleed as soon as you put it in the water, and with clear, even if you cut it larger, the print is much more transparent so you don’t get the colour density… best, M.

A bit more bench time this evening... As well as some armour for the bottom of the engine, the R1250GS ADV has a second central stand as an alternative to the classic kick stand -- I guess this is because you might be far from your rear wheel trolley stand, and loaded with luggage and adventure kit, the bike stands pretty tall and with a high centre of gravity. It keeps the model solidly upright on the bench as well... It feels slightly like the 'B" team were given the handlebars and controls to practice on... the fit of all these parts is OK, but not as precise and firm as everything up to this point has been. The twist grips tend to fall off, and even when everything is together it's really only one pin through from the base of each mirror that's holding it in place. The angle of the drawings in the instructions doesn't help. Note on the last picture the different spigots on the left and right levers: angled (_/) on the left and 90 degrees on the right. It's as well to know this before beginning to put the assembly together. Finally, you have to thread them up the interior of the fork assembly (inside the shock on each side) and attach to the spigots on the hand levers (the short lengths) and the almost invisible pin on the twist grips tucked away behind and below the handlebars (the long ones). I have now officially had enough for today... best, M.

There isn't much actual colour in the R1250s lights -- brake lights and turn signals are handled by LEDs that emit red or orange light, but you can barely see them in the housing. The red rectangle is just a reflector. I don't know what the two red elements in the main reflector are, but they are the only part that's visibly red, so I painted them with Tamiya Clear Red over the chrome. The rear indicators are these stalks made up of a black housing and clear lens. I don't know why there are four. I can't find a point when a second pair is fitted, so I can only assume Meng knows they are pretty vulnerable so they give you spares, but if that's the reason, it's the only place in the kit so far where they've done that. They certainly don't give you extra screws or rivets, which are just as small and hard to handle. Both the lens and the housing have the sprue gates on the surface not the edge which is great for minimising damage, but you need to completely remove them, leaving a smooth surface on both parts, to get the lenses to click in place. I guess this is where you're most likely to ping one across the room or fumble it and lose it to the carpet monster... The chrome is very well done, and any ejector marks are completely hidden when the exhaust is fitted. The real thing does have a handy seam on it so even the joint is OK to leave. On with the tail, held with two small and perfectly aligned screws at the top front of the frame, and then the exhaust clicks into place. The only location at the back is that knurled fitting above the middle of the silencer, which I found hard to get a positive click and lock on, so it's glued with a touch of Formula 560 Canopy Glue to fix it permanently in place. best, M.

Back to the bench after a lovely break full of great company, good food and fine wine -- just what the doctor ordered... Rear wheel assembles much like the front. This is the deeply dished right face of the hub -- it's worth noting which way the tyre tread is pointing. The rear wheel is fixed on to the hub with five of the smallest screws, which is easy as long as you've lined up the holes in the wheel centre and the hub on the swing arm correctly. The five part radiators lock together nicely, but they are handed so best to build and install one at a time. Connecting pipes on each side are different, but it's hard to see which end is which from the angle they are drawn from in the instructions, so this perspective might be helpful. Note that little rectangular block at the top left of the radiator fan at about 10 o'clock. That needs to be opposite to the lower bracket, not next to it, when you fit the back of the radiator in the previous stage. I'm still trying to decide whether to wash the radiator cores to pop out the detail texture a bit. The main body of the left cylinder. The two small pins and the big one are the attachments to the engine block, which turn out to be a perfect fit -- you can hear the air whoosh out of the receiving sockets as you push them home into position. The little silver cylinder head fittings and the black cap on this side are tricky little blighters to get into place, but they do eventually fit firmly and precisely. And now we're on two wheels... best, M.

The frame halves are very nice pieces of design, tooling, and moulding in tough ABS. The geometry is quite complex, and is not a flat plane at all. It's pretty much seamless. The only thing to watch out for is that the sprue attachments on the cylindrical part at the top left in this picture, which is the top fork bearing, extend onto the flat face and need to be trimmed off so the parts and each side can mate properly with a firm push fit later on. Do it now, though, 'cos it's a pain if you're trying shave them off when the frame is on the bike (don't ask how I know...) Now the white frame has to go on the black bike. This requires seven hands. The pins on the top of the front and rear suspensions have to be fitted into the receiving holes on the frame, and the big pin on the frame has to go into the pivot point on the swing arm just aft of the rubber concertina joint -- which has a tendency to pop out of its locating hole in the rear of the engine block as you try to get everything lined up. And then you have to put screws into the mounting points where the frame fixes onto the engine block. The upshot of which is do this screw first! Then the one at the front of the engine block, then a little bit of fiddling (and note it's a smaller screw than the other two) will get the one at the top of the kickstand in place, and finish with the one that connects the thin tie-bar above the main swing arm to the frame. And now the other side. It took a bit of trial and error to get the rear footbrake pedal in position -- the angle of the picture in the instructions is a bit unhelpful, so here's a clear view from a different perspective. That hole in the black fluid cylinder isn't an ejector tower mark: there's a cover piece which fits into the two holes on the frame web below which also has a pin locking the cylinder in place. And this is how it goes. From back to front, the frame slots onto, and traps, the rear suspension, the battery carrier, the front suspension and finally press fits (very firmly) to the other side at the top fork bearing. It's very firmly held when it is in place. I'm hugely impressed by the engineering of this kit. There are four screws to go through this side as well. But the frame is firmly fixed already, and amazingly, at every one of these four points the frame is perfectly positioned to line up the holes in the frame with the receiving holes underneath. The smallest is about 0.3mm in diameter and the larger ones 0.5mm, so if it was out by a fraction of a mm you wouldn't see the hole underneath. Something for other manufacturers to aspire to! Headlight unit made up... don't forget the "BMW LED" decal! Don't be tempted to add any reflective chrome to the right hand lenses, this is actually a pretty good impression of what the OEM unit looks like. If you're a fan of "tuner" parts (and, boy, are there a lot of those for this bike...) then you can add a graphic glow over the X and the ridge around the two other projectors. The headlight mounts to a bracket fixed under front of the frame and top of the forks presses firmly in place. The little black caps on at the top of each fork have a tendency to leap off as you try to push them in, but there's a solid click and a firm grip when you get them right... There's only one instrument graphic decal, so I guess we're assuming the bike is powered up and ticking over on its kickstand... There are quite a few aftermarket solutions for replacing that simple screen with adventure/raid-appropriate multifunctional units, so scratchbuilding is an option, unless someone has decided to 3D-print highlights from the Wunderlich Catalogue in 1/9 scale... This will be parked up for a bit now while I head to the City of Light for a long weekend, but normal service will be resumed next week. By which time the luggage should have arrived! best, M.

Agreed.... I was sure it was some kind of Lada or Zhiguli or something of that ilk.... I wasted a lot of time down that rabbit hole and never though to look further east.. (and being left hand drive, there wasn't the obvious "Japanese" clue...) best, M.

Rear swing arm and brake disc under way. The two "concertina" sections are moulded in soft rubber, and are flexible. That little black hose joint on the top of the callipper is no fun to get in place, I can tell you... And now it's starting to look like a motorbike. Don't worry... the rear suspension shock mechanism is hanging loose and can rotate wherever it wants at the moment. Which, as you can see, is not where it needs to be when it's fitted into the frame. best, M.

Forgot to mention -- these Meng kits are all press and snap fit, with a few dozen micro screws and rivets to really lock some key parts together. I think that's because many of the crisp and delicate parts trees are moulded in ABS rather than regular polystyrene for much higher toughness and resilience. If you want to use glue, only something like MekPak will bond it. It's very very well designed and engineered, though, so parts lock each other, and everything is keyed where necessary so you can't put them together the wrong way. This is case in point: the two sides of the engine block press together, and are then locked by the detailed front and back plates. Although it's a "pre-painted" kit, it's helpful to have good reference for detail painting of things like fasteners, so a big thank you to the guy on eBay who is selling an R1250 engine... This is the front suspension, which is mounted on the block. The first of many occasions today when I could really have done with three hands. A magnetised screwdriver is invaluable, as well... This is an example of the clever engineering and the value of tough plastic. There's one rim with the spokes moulded in place from the hub to the rim, and a second spoke disc which slots through the gaps in the first one, then you join the hubs, and finally fold down the spoke pairs to click in place through the slots in the rim. The tab between the pairs of spoke flexes over the rim and then locks them in place. Very cunning, if a bit scary when you put the first one in place... Etched steel brake and ?speedo? discs pinned in place with teeny-tiny rivets -- which they give you no spares of! Main fork assemblies going together. The black tubes are slide moulded in one piece each. No pics of the fork being assembled -- that would have needed five hands. Be very careful to get the tread on the tyre pointing in the right direction: these are kits where you have to study the instructions extremely closely. Take note of which side of the wheel in the pictures has the inner speedo ring on... And this where I'm at tonight. The brake calliper has a couple of silver bolts and a few black caps added using pens. Next steps... the rear swing arm and suspension. best, M.

I wanted to do something completely different for a break between classic kit 1/24 Roy Cross Tribute builds... so it's a motorbike, it's much bigger 1/9 scale, and this is the pre-painted version... It's a big box: And it's a full box... The contents take up the best part of 5ft of benchtop: And here they are in more detail: And so, it begins: All the parts trees are lettered with molded tabs, but it's not so easy to read them in black on black, for example, so job number one is to free them all from their plastic bags, and tag them more readably... best, M.

Didn't know this -- either the car or the Transkit -- existed until one of those browsing eBay for things about to end moments. Chris at C1 always makes beautiful masters, and I'm sure I can figure out how it all goes together! It'll solve my "problem" of having a vanilla Hasegawa 2002 and also the turbo kit with M-sport stripes by making something different out of the less sporty version... There's a vacformed windscreen on the right, some additional door cards an seats in resin, and some pre-cut flat PET or styrene sheet for the flat windows. Loads of pics of a real one to feast your eyes on here: https://www.carandclassic.com/la/C1799427 And I rather like the colour and interior trim... best, M.

And now there are six: best, M.

And all together: best, M.

I think Bond prefers getting pretty girls into his car to ejecting them… But if you really don’t want to eject a Korean henchman, then another vote for the Master Box range. You’re going to have to do something about the legs anyway, though, because there’s no way they’re going through the roof panel gap sitting normally. The guy in my Airfix one basically has his knees tucked under his chin and feet on the seat bolster. best, M.

Finally got this one over the finish line. Another one of the tribute vignettes reproducing covers from the Eagle comic in 1963, all painted by illustrator, Airfix box art legend and high-end marine painter Roy Cross, who died last year. This is the early 60s vintage Auto Kit white metal model, with an Immense Miniatures driver figure of Tazio Nuvolari who is a pretty good likeness. The original cover: And a couple of angles on my version: That makes six altogether now. I'm not sure how I can take a picture with them all in, but I'm thinking about it! best, M.

Holy thread resurrection, but reading a magazine this month, the Rainbow suddenly makes a lot more sense. It was never intended as a Ferrari -- that just happened to be some running gear that Bertone had knocking about (having done the 308 Dino before falling out with Ferrari when they went back to Pininfarina for designs). The Rainbow was designed by Gandini as a "big brother" to the FIAT X1/9 for the US market, which generally thought the X1/9 was too small and underpowered. FIAT got into financial trouble (so what's new?) and pulled the plug on a risky niche-market offering... to the extent that Bertone brought the X1/9 in house and continued building them for a few years. If you bear in mind that it's a one off concept car, and think that it might have led to a productionised FIAT X1/11, then it takes on a different aspect. It's just not a very nice Ferrari... best, M.

That looks awesome -- really very well done. I was wondering how to get one in 1/24, but @Pierre Rivard has given the answer, for which my wallet (and my wife) may not thank him. And for obvious reasons, I'm always happy to see figures, especially Tazio: he looks great. Great stuff, and thanks for sharing so comprehensively. best, M.

Thanks Dave…. Done mine. It’s worth persevering… it took me three requests (or possibly just 45 minutes from my first one) for the email with the link to come through. (And yes, I did check my junk mail religiously). best, M.

The spare part has arrived from Squires: I suspect the delay is more down to Royal Mail deliveries round here than any issue at their end. And here it is -- the forward support for the rear spring. Amazing that such a small piece can put such a big dent in progress. I have spent the time until this morning's post brought a very small envelope working on the image textures for the base. But this afternoon I was able to move rapidly along. This is the earlier version of the suspension,. The 1935 German GP-winning car had a quarter elliptic spring fixed at one end only, and a single shock absorber rather than the paired setup here. The hinges sitting above the central pin is correct, which took a little while to figure out from the drawings in the instructions. The underside is simplified. That long sump is going to be a pain when it comes to making the usual perspex stand to carry the weight of the model. The Y-shaped twin prop-shaft/double differential arrangement was to allow the driver to sit lower, between the shafts, rather than astride a hump in the floor with a central shaft and diff. In real life, the dual drive and gear box appear through the floor of the cockpit between the driver's feet.... but not in this model. Test fit of the body, which fitted after some filing back of the tab you can just see above behind the centre of the rear axle. This is ultimately glued to the body for additional strength when the body and chassis are finally fixed together. It's only when you bring them together like this that you realise how big the wheels actually are. Just mocked up for the moment. The race numbers are all painted in place using stencils derived from Roy's original painted "12" on the radiator using a bit of Photoshop trickery and a sharp knife. Once everything is set and dried overnight, it'll be time to start gluing the main assemblies together. And I couldn't resist trying this view, which is pretty close to the angle of the original cover artwork... best, M.

I think it was this I was remembering… http://www.bburago.com/ferrari/exclusivelicense.html Whatever, we still seem to be missing any new tool kits of more recent Ferraris… whoever has licenses. best, M.

I think it was at the time when Ferrari did one of their periodic “We’re going to sell an exclusive license to <insert high end diecast maker of your choice here> for all model cars.” deals, which is why Tamiya hasn’t made a Ferrari since the FXX-K in 2016. Revell and Fujimi were happily knocking out 458 Italias, 599s in various flavours, and an F12, but I don’t think you can buy anything newer wearing a prancing horse from any mainstream manufacturer… best, M.

I just noticed on my build of the Airfix (Gunze) kit, which is replicating Nick Mason's car which I once saw and photographed up close in the metal, that it has three "gill" slots on each side, and the central one of the three front vents is there but with a closed PE door in place. IIRC the kit came with moulded plastic plugs that meant you could choose whether to have two or three gills, and PE doors for all three nose vents. I suspect the nose vent doors were open or closed depending on the particular race conditions (more or less cooling needed) although the side gills were factory cut. I wonder if Aurora just saw some pictures of cars running with the central "nostril" closed up and thought there were only 2... best, M.

Very odd. Maybe in later boxes they decided to stop paying licence fees on the Cavallino Rampante badge. I have two in the stash… the one with etched metal wheels and the blue and yellow car, and they both have decals. Does your box look like the red ones @Exotics_Builder posted above, or is it missing the Ferrari badge top right? best, M.

The Fujimi certainly _should_ have decals. They look like this: best, M.

Mostly been working on interesting painting challenges... The wheels are cast in deep relief, but only with the front layer of spokes delineated. There is a darn great brake drum right on the back, so the solid rear face is not a problem in itself. I've lined the upper edges, and painted the outer wall black to a greater depth. The trouble is the recesses aren't sharp at the bottom, so trying to apply a wash just ends up with puddles in the centres of the holes, not lines at the edges... As evidenced by the Ferrari 156, Mercedes and Vanwall, I've got nothing against swapping in 3D printed or cast aftermarket wheels, but nobody makes them in the sizes needed for these pre-war racers, except possibly Fernando Pinto at great expense... I don't know why Autokits decided to produce this car's wheels by casting rather than winding the spokes from wire like the others, but this is what I've got. This is what's taken most of the time... After a deal of research, the Flying Mantuan is dressed for action. I'd originally thought that he'd be mostly in white, thanks to a famous photo of him wearing a white overall and equally pale helmet. But looking for some images of the helmet led me to the Nuvolari Museum, where I discovered that for races rather than practice, he habitually wore a yellow shirt with monogram, azure blue trousers, white "English shoes" and leather helmets in buff, red or brown. I thought that would add a touch of colour, let's say. Since i didn't have a figure with a leather jerkin, which he also wore regularly (but not in every race), I decided that this race was one in which he chose not to. I know it's not what's shown in Roy Cross's painting, but then, neither is the car, exactly. The clothes are part of the Nuvolari legend, and the Museum actually has examples of all of them, so the lurid colours are taken from life. It certainly makes for a more colourful display! Still waiting, hopefully not for much longer, for the spares from Squires before I can begin assembling the suspension. best, M.