txdieseldog

Looks cool, but now you need to scratch build and old style single wide to put behind it. A newer modern, modular wouldn't do it justice.

Been awhile since I've been on here. Thought I'd chime in with my KW. Some of you may have seen it way back but others may have not.

Tom, I have the doubles and it came with two dollies. As JT mentioned the mail truck as well, I believe it to be a single kit with the Ford C cab but have heard that they put a dolly in it as well. Moral of the story........ 1 trailer-1 dolly......2 trailers-2 dollies. Happy hunting.

Gaute, that top one appears like a radiator is mounted behind the drivers wheel. The internet showed other pictures of a bunk down low and stated something about being mid-engined.

Thanks. The frame rails in front are from a second one I have (one is Chevy and one is GMC). It is laid there for comparison. The single axle is from the AMT LN8000 box van. I switched it to the tandem from this.

James, mine won't do you any good. I removed the DD and replaced it with the Freight Shaker Cummins and shortened the frame to drop an axle and pull the twin pups. It started with the DD going to the Shaker so I figured "Why not swap between the two." Pulling two of these.

If you are going box stock, the Chevy and GMC are good. If you are trying to get it as close to accurate but as easy as possible, they have issues as well. I have determined that the cabs sit too high and the tires look inaccurate in the wheel wells. I am building one now and have shifted the hinge points and lowered the rear cab mounts with out any problems. Good luck.

Anthony, compressor 101. The only reason that an airbrush compressor does not have many issues with water is the storage tank. A compressor produces heat as it fills the tank, that meets the cooler air of the room around it, developing condensation. Hence, water build-up. If you want the guarantee of steady pressure by using a larger compressor regulated down for airbrush use, you can get water separators and dryers to keep the water out of the system. Another trick is to run hard line piping before you connect your hoses and place a "T" in line with a pretty good drop down and a bleed valve at the bottom. The water will normally drop down the first opening it finds and a good habit would be to crack that lower valve before every use. Also, elbow up for the final hose connection. When the system sits idle, it is very difficult for the water to even reach the hoses. So, across and up, with a "T" dropping down along the way, with an easy levered ball valve works best.

Just to pipe in here..... I use Purple Power and get it very cheap at my local "Dollar General" in the gallon jug. I have had no problems with it here in TX and it has stripped some doozys for me.

Jarda, please don't think I was picking apart your setup. I think it is great!!!! It is looking awesome!! I was very confused by having never heard of water cooled brakes before. Mark, thank you very much for the clarification. Keep up the good work Jarda. Doing great.

I wanna know what in the world you are talking about with WATER LINES? Did no know such a thing was part of the peerless logging trailer. I have one. Explain please?

Mark, I have not converted this cab to stirrups, but you might like the direction it's headed. I have a WIP that got stored and is now in the repair pile. Also North American Van lines. It has a DROM box added and a DD swapped into it on a frame stretch. Just thought you might get a kick out of it. Good luck when you get yours going. I'll be watching it.

I appreciate the comments. If I didn't have the master bath in full redo, I'd work on some of my other stuff as well. It feels good to get some pics out there. I should probably get some of my WIP's posted or updated as well. I tend to get behind on those posts. Thanks again for the comments.

Hey all, I had thought that I had posted pics of this truck, but I can't find it anywhere in my content....so, I'll just have to start from scratch. This was from the contest that some of you have read about that I was doing- "Top the Cop". but unfortunately my program has been put on hiatus due to a change in the logistics of my position for the campuses they have me cover. This was the latest one we ran. Was approx. 2.5 yrs ago, I think. The truck is Revell W900. I have filled in the slots in the back for the interior mounts and the side slots for cab mounting. Cut off the blinkers from the headlights and put them on the fenders. And I built a visor for it. The color is an homage to the state I grew up in. (New Mexico) Turquoise base with the yellow and red from the flag colors. Enjoy!!

I would like it! But, same as Chuck, a bit far coming from TX. If I ever win the lottery, you guys will see some restored pics!

I have noticed that the front mount is still used for the garbage trucks in our city too.

I tried finding any connections for Trumepeter, no luck at all. If anyone else would know how to get ahold of them..............I'm for that as well.

Yeah, I know you do JT. Shipping wouldn't be that much either. Both of us in TX and all. Sending PM to ya.

Have a dilemma and would like some help or suggestions-please! Picked up a Trumpeter Amer LaFrance Eagle Pumper from Hobby Lobby for $7. Yes, you read that correctly, $7. It was marked way down due to a close business relationship I have with the manager. (Plus my daughter works there ) It is missing the photo-etch, some chrome (mainly wheels), and tires. Although, some goober that bought it and then returned it, hence the clearance, swapped in Revell snap tires. There's the skinny, now the dilemma. 1) I have a ROG Canadian Hauler that has the chrome 10 hole and the painted 2 hole Budds. List a wanted for the 6 required tires and get to building? 2)Place the boxes and pump on a different frame/cab for a totally different look? 3) Use the boxes only with a section of spare tank I have and make a service truck? 4) Or trade it off to someone that would be interested in tackling such a project? Just curious on what you all might think. Cheers.

Alright Alan!!!!! You figured out the pictures. Looks good too.

Since the cab info is showing Mil., WIS, it just might be for a museum or test ride rig. For that matter, the transfer tank could be unleaded to make sure the test rides don't run out. The hose is just running into that locked box.

Hey Jim, can you come build that in Texas? We could use the rain! Keep up the good work.

JT, you might go ahead and test fit the interior shell, just to make sure. Those joints look good. I've done that making day cabs and I found you can sand/Dremel grind, most of the lip down after it's cured. Leaving just a thin layer.

Danny, what you have there is what would be a standard for a long bed pick-up. They make several different types but all seem to be very close to what you have created. I have one for my camper that is slightly different only because it is designed for a short bed. It is called a "slider". It has a frame that is squarish/rectangle in shape that is mounted on those rails in line with the truck frame. The rest is much the same with the "A" frames and hitch point itself. A large arm is pulled to remove lock pins that allow the hitch to slide back and forth for about 12-18 inches, depending on the model. This allows for the tighter turning radius of the short bed trucks. Not to confuse you or anything, just wanted to add and tell you that what you have is SPOT ON!

OK, while I'm at it..........I mentioned this build pulling my lowboy, so, one of the minor mods that I am considering is safety striping the front bumper. Any thoughts or comments?