raildogg

I am of the opinion that Sherline is the standard of Model Engineering. If you have the expertise in Machining it is a firm and strong investment. I made the mistake of not buying one and I am regretting it now.

Well, this idea seems like it's been done already ( see post in resins). I guess I'll just do it for myself with designs I want.

O.K., so if I take all this and said, I can, make a ring rim, and a spoke section, and make it user adjustable would that be something I could highlight as, " a design feature"?. Since most scale models seem to mount wheels on backing plates, or simulated brake drum/disc points.

Looking, recently at adds for wheels in car mags and noticed this, the spokes for 90% of them were very close to the edge of the rim. This caused me to ask myself, what about offsets. What are the determining factors for the offsets?. Is it that the tires want to be centered in the wheel wells or, do they need to be centered at all? On say, 1/25th scale models, where is the offset, center, front or back. Do they actually emulate the prototypes arrangements, or do they fit the models geometry? I would like to design some wheel rims for possible 3d printing and I think, this would be an important design feature to consider. Please comment and expand this idea for me. I need to know so my sketches could have some relevance to them.

Yo Chief, wow I wish you could tutor me in how to model tires ,man what an outstanding job! Those cousins are on my watch list. Buy some soon.

Sometimes I'm so disappointed by the after market. I am glad it's there to be sure, but it is so often under stocked, and under managed that it hardly seem worth it to even be in business. This source, to be sure is always, out of stock, for almost all the items, as are the others. Their sources are often small cottage makers that ,can't satisfy demand. It is exactly this peril that has kept me out of the arena of specialty sales. I hope that some day, in the future, the disease of "out of stockism",can and will be cured.

I don't handle rejection well, not the competitor kind I guess.

If you call this a bad build then ,I'm never going to build another truck in my life !!!!!

O.K. That's cool

Yep, I work in one for a time.

I'm talking about real loads here. In my neck of the woods. the Merrimac Valley, I don't see airframes being transported, just lots of heavy old machinery destined for the scrapper. As chance would have it, I never ever have my camera with me to snap a pic of them, I see them when I'm driving and will not take a photo while behind the wheel. More pics of that kind of stuff, and has anyone built a model of a machine for the trailer load? I plan an old steam hammer for one of mine.

Very cool man. How did you make them, that's what I want to know. But if you decide to sell them put me down for several pair now.

Anybody know if this stuff is even made? I am looking for, 1.5mm or 3mm, 1/16th or 1/8th diameter styrene rod that comes on a roll similar to weed whacker filament?. Has anybody ever seen or heard of it being manufactured? Please help find this stuff, it could be used in a 3d printer.

I will admit to wanting a 3D printer to add to my shop, but. I am one who would, and could, use one for model parts and other very useful items I would want the very best model of printer available, for a certain price point, that being a Fused Deposition type. Currently they are not at a stage where they are cost effective for home shop use. It is the ,only best way, to "grow" any design modellers would and will buy from and for. If I wasn't on a fixed retirement income, I might think about a printing service just for scale modellers, the horizons scare me in its enormity.

I may be wrong here but it seems that most people get the wrong impression about 3D printing. The best definition is done by fused deposition method and not currently available to the hobbyist. This uses a powdered medium which is cured by UV light and uses a printer like head to spray a binder on the powder, and then cured using the lights The so called home table top models such as, Makerbot, and the Mendel Prusa use a spool of ABS, or PVA filament to melt by layers the part you want. This is the reason for the layer marks. I find that there is a lot of profit built in to the price. They are made of mostly inexpensive hardware items readily available at Home Depot or your local hardware store. The really important parts are the heated extruder and the heated build table which are very reasonable priced from the suppliers. The real trick is the design software. It must by done as a 3D model and most CAD software have a semi steep to very steep learning curve. It is not as easy as it looks boys. I have my parts made by Shapeways, where I can chose a material for my build. I have the luxury of having a desktop CNC gantry router, and a mini mill and lathe in my shop. I am also, a certified Auto CAD 2000 Operator and have a Degree in Machine Design with a Minor in Solid Works CAD Modeling. So, take it from me it'll be a long time before FDM 3D Printing comes to your living room. The really good stuff will stay industrial for a good long time.

If you have $1500.00 checkout Radio Shacks entry for a turnkey desktop model. Still not in styrene though.

So sad so very, very sad.

There is a subject rarely seen. Has anyone made a cool load for their trailer that's not a bulldozer or excavator?. I am planing a large piece of machinery for my next trailer build. Let's see some loads up in here.

Opinion only. I too, have issues with the model car and truck builders of the craft. The manufacturers, less than forward thinking has made us want things that they are not willing to give. What if, we had as much, in aftermarket items, as we have to, scratch build those items if we want to, then we would be just as accurate and customizable as all the rest of the genres out there. Some of those genres are not so popular here in the U.S as say, Japan. Have you seen the amount of stuff available for their cartoon and anime modelers. Whether its accuracy or detail we suffer from a short sighted buying public. We, who continue to buy the same Mustang, or NASCAR model over and over, and over, again. So don't wonder why they get more than us anymore. It's all about marketing and demand.(there would be anarchy here) This is my opinion only and does not reflect this or any other forums central ideals and goals. Thank You.

This is a great reference set. Please archive this, so we can access it whenever we need it.

O.K. I tried that, review of, as the title and scored. They are good enough to finish the kit. Thanks for the great solution.

That one is a great deal. I have one and it's just right. The fan is isolated from the fumes. It says that because it's made of plastic and can be damages by the deposits of lacquers and thinners and such. But as they go this is a super set for small spaces and tight quarters. Oh, don't mind the photo the duct does not go in the shown direction. I put mine under the window sill and I'm good to go. I can say it gets a 9 from me.

A little off the track of this forum but, does anyone know where I can find free downloads of model kit instruction sheets? My immediate need is for, 1/35th scale Dragon Models Kit #6085 Flatbed typ OMMR rail car. It is a model of a German WW2 flat car for transporting tanks and light artillery. I have the kit but lost or may have discarded the build instruction sheets. Thanks in advance for any assistance you can give.

Not so! Nah Ahh , If I continue on the same course and get the same results, physics says , I am the definition of INSANE, ha ha ha ha ha ha as I go screaming into the night. L.O.L.