retired & glad

Go to your forum name in the upper right of the page and click on the down arrow after the name. Go to your account settings and there is where your signature will be. That's the way mine is showing. Richard

Sorry to hear this kind of news. I lived in Charlotte for 20+ years and finally got out of the rat race there. Moved back to my birth town of Lenoir in the mid 70's. Never a regret doing that. Back in those days, I could quit a job and go to another one the same day and start working the same day. No way can you do that now. I am retired now and don't regret it a bit. I don't know what your work field is but don't let it get you down. Something else is out there for you. Since we are fairly close, maybe we can meet and talk models someday. Good luck on your job venture. Richard

I have a bunch left over from my picture painting days and it might be a good project to see what it will or won't do on a model. Lots of artist use this paint to use on automobiles and bikes for their skulls and dragons and stuff. I eventually changed over to Etac paint. Tip dry and cleaning took over actual time trying to paint a picture. Etac would spray 5 times longer than Createx until time to clean tip drying. Richard

For me it would be 1 through 10

Rob, check out" The Orange Airbrush Forum" and look through the past post in a couple of the different parts. I used to post a lot of questions and got a lot of answers on them. Nice people there that will help you with your paint and brush. When I was painting pictures, Createx would tip dry real fast and I spent more time backflowing and cleaning the tip than I did with the picture. I changed to Etac paint and their formula reduced the tip dry a lot. I haven't used any on my models but will soon. I have 2 badger brushes and they work great. Their repair dept. is outstanding also. I sent 1 back because it was leaking where the cup meets the body and they sent me a new one plus the one that was leaking back. A little JB weld at the leak around the cup fixed the problem. For now, I use the cheap acrylic paint with car washer fluid with a few Paasche H brushes I have. I don't do any fine detailing on my cars, so I just shoot with the paasche and they come out looking very good to me. Hope this might be of help. What Gabriel said works. Spray with a lot of testing and at different pressures and mixes. Control of the brush is a must and only using it will get you the results you will be looking for. Good luck and show something when you can. Richard

I sprayed some Golden High Flow paint on a body that was primed with Duplicolor primer today and I'm not sure if I like the golden for painting cars. I knew it was a transparent paint but it took forever to get a opaque finish. It would be good to tint windows with or do a flames project on the front. It will take at least 2 more runs of painting before I feel good about an even coat with no fades since it is a transparent paint. I had to open the trigger stop a lot so it would spray a lot of paint and since I was spraying a lot of paint, I was a looking for some runs but none showed up. Tip dry on the needle and nozzle wasn't bad. I wiped a few times but that is normal for me. My compressor got very hot since I was using a lot of air since I was spraying around 30psi with a badger krome with the larger needle and nozzle in it. I'm going to play around with the paint some more and see if it is worth buying more colors to paint cars with. Richard

Hey Jonathan, Sounds like a good present to him. I had a real life 66 chevy stepside. Loved that truck but a deer on I-40 took the whole front end out. Never did find all the parts to fix it so I sold it. Maybe one day we can meet somewhere in Morganton since we are very close and just chat a while. Richard

I had a drag car just like this one. It had a 340 in it and I ordered a special cam from Chrysler to go in it and it made it fly down the track. First race with it I won the final heat. Miss those times. Drag tracks are gone around here now but the major tracks are still going strong. Will keep up with this build.

I had a VW woods buggy years ago and they are fun to drive on trails in the woods. 4 or 5 of us would meet on a Saturday at different places and try to compete on a bank or hill to see who could make it to the top without turning over or backing back down without tearing something up. Lots of fun in those days. Also had a VW drag car but that is another story.

I've never entered a contest or cannonball run before but this will be my first to compete in. I don't have anything in my mind to build but will come up with something. I have some friends in Australia from another forum I visit and maybe they can inspire me to pick something that will work for this. Plenty of time left to build and complete something. Richard

Thanks Tony for the info. I am going through that process now and so far it is working ok. I belong to a airbrush forum and there are a lot of people using Golden for painting pictures on Yupo paper which is a plastic paper. From my using Yupo, I have to let it dry overnight to completely dry before any handling of it. I'll relay the pro's and con's of what I find here also. Thanks Richard

I am wondering if anyone has used the Golden High Flow acrylic paint for the models and if so, what pro's and con's you had with this paint. I have plenty and can get it locally. Most parts will be primed with duplicolor primer. I use this paint when airbrushing pictures and it has a bold color selection. I have used the craft paint with very good success but want to change over to Golden if it will hold good to the primer. I don't handle the models very much after finishing except to dust them. Thanks for any info. Richard

Nice car. When I was young I used to deliver his morning newspaper. When it was time to collect, he was sometimes home and then not home. When I did find him home he was very nice to talk to and paid my collection bill.

Thanks Dale. I figured it must be cheap Chinese stuff. I think I am going to stay with the paasche brand. All my brushes are paasche and they haven't given me any problem. Just wanting something different. I will look into the talon and maybe push the button to get one.

Great job. I'm sure it took you a very long time butchering that one.

Very good tip. I'll have to try this.

I have 2 paasche H and 1 paasche VL airbrushes and was wondering if anyone is using the Master gravity flow airbrush. Their prices are good but I haven't seen one in person. Just wondering how the quality and upkeep are? I use lacquer and water based paint but it will be mostly used for lacquer. I don't want to get one if it has o-rings that won't last by using lacquer dupli-color paint. Any replies from someone that uses the Master one would be appreciated. Thanks Richard

They look like a set of drag slicks that would be mounted on a set of rims and hauled to the drag strip in the trunk. When there, jack the rear up and put them on for racing. I had a set similar but I don't remember them having the Holley name on them. Richard

Go for it. It is looking good. I often wondered when I used to watch the show of how he was able to park it in a parking lot with power and water and sewer connections. I guess that was the wonders of TV.

All mine are used for enamels and so far never a problem. Good idea though and I'll change over to glass beads when I buy small bottles of paint. I am in the process of changing over from acrylic to lacquer paint anyway. I'll be decanting from rattle cans just for the airbrush. I tried decanting with drilling a hole in the top about 3 years ago and that was a disaster. Now I have set up the cans with glueing round styrene tubing into the nozzle and get just enough to airbrush the parts I am working on. My building cars has lengthened in time since I am trying to make each new one better than the last. Still not show quality but better than when I started years ago.

I like that idea. Problem solved. Richard

I found a good way to mix a bottle of paint. I have used this for a number of years and it works good. I have a couple of tubes of Daisy BB's. I've had a Daisy BB gun for years and these BB's are the steel ones. When I would get a new bottle of paint, the first thing I would do is put 1 or 2 BB's in them and shake. It acts like a rattle can mixer and this is where I got the idea from. When the bottles of paint sit for a long time, they will have separation from the pigment and thinner. This just speeds up the mixing time and it does get the bottom of the jar mixed very good. I guess model builders know this but I thought a new builder would like a little hint that works for me. Richard

After reading this post, I think I'll have another couple of doughnuts.

Thanks all I decided to use crazyjim's way to organize. Since I have the units it was the most economically way to go. I've all ready set one up with tape labels and some parts are in it. If it's a special part not common to the average build, then I'll bag and label it with the bags Art suggested. After this project, I am going to organize my work and paint bench. I have a storage building with heat that I am going to set up another paint station. I can't use enamel or lacquer at my inside house work station so I am going to set up a paint station outside in the building. I'll still airbrush acrylic inside and the other smelly stuff out in the building. I've used dupli-color before and liked it but only could spray outside with the dust and wind blowing. When I get a new computer I am going to start showing some of my builds. All I have now is XP and Vista and need to update. Thanks Richard

Jim, your the man. Thanks a bunch. I don't think in my dreams I could ever be that organized. We have the same taste for RC cola though. I even have a box of moonpies also. hahaha. You have helped me a lot with very good ideas and photos. Thanks Richard