69NovaYenko

Thanks for all the input and the sharing of your best practices everyone.

After watching several of the car restoration TV shows I noticed that when the body goes to paint it was wiped down with a "'anti-static" solution or wipe to ensure the body is free of all contaminates and dust before shooting any paint. Are there any auto-body 'anti-static" products that could be employed in the 1:25 world to ensure the body is free of contaminates and dust before shooting any primer or color coats. What are your best practices to ensure a clean dust free surface before priming or laying down a color coat.

That sounds encouraging...the few Jo-Han kits I have did not come with the windshield wash bags as kit part. If you have a spear one that I could use as as master I`d be open to some type of trade for it.

I`m certain a few of you recall the days of windshield wash bags and bottles. Is there an aftermarket source for 60ties style windshield wash bags and wash fluid bottles.

You did one awesome job on this build.

Got you..always learning. As I said I fell asleep..so it on me for sure.

II have been used Testors ELO paint & decal remover. It does a great job. However, I fell asleep one night and left a body in my stripper tub overnight. To my horror when I retrieved it from the ELO bath the next day I discovered it had not only removed the old layers of paint/decals it had started dissolving the leading edges of the fenders and rocker panels. Additionally, the plastic body seemed a bit brittle afterwards. It was like I had acid dipped a 1:1 car body and left it in the soup to long. So I am seeking recommendations for an "EFFECTIVE" paint/decal stripper that wont have an adverse chemically reaction with my plastic bodies or parts. I`ve had suggestions ranging from Simple Green, Super Clean and Purple Power to using cheap brake fluid as a good plastic paint/decal stripper. Also, do all the above work well stripping lacquer as well as enamel paints without damaging plastic. Any and all input is welcome. Thanks one and all in advance for your feedback.

This coming along as a VERY NICE project...good to see an AMC build for a change!!!

On my way home I stopped for gas and this beauty thundered up to the pump across from me. The driver (as one would expect) was extremely proud of his `69 427 S/C Yenko Camaro. He confessed it was not a numbers matching car but a tribute car. It`s taken him three years to faithfully replicate this classic American muscle-car; from the era correct paint, drive-train, white SYC stitched head rest; to the American Racing Thrust wheels mounted on replica Goodyear Polyglass tires. Chuckling he said, "It drives my girlfriend crazy when we go somewhere in it because; people or always honking, waving, giving me the thumbs up or wanting to take pictures. She just does not understand why it draws some much attention." So, since he was riding solo I asked if I could take a few quick snap shots! LOL

Found the article!! https://www.hotrod.com/muscle-car-review/ This is a wonderful stroll down memory lane for any AMC connoisseur and a treasure trove of info & pictures for one of an AMC builds I`m planning. Thanks for the lead.

My cousin was a street racer and ran an AMX in the day. He explained to me that the "X" stood for experimental. The AMX was American Motors test platform for factory & aftermarket speed equipment.

I like this built..a refreshing change from the same old G.M., Ford, Mopars.

I hope so. Even though I once owned a 1:1 `68 Javelin, my favorite model year is the `70 SST 390 Mark Donahue Javelin .

I`ve got several of the pre-wired distributors as well; not to mention they are great looking and time/aggravation savers.

This one is for all the A.M.C. connoisseurs out there. This 1972 A.M.C. Javelin is appropriately named “Defiant”. This 1,100 H.P. creation is arguably the wildest custom vehicle design ever built by the Ringbrothers. They decided to rely heavily on Solidworks digital design tools to render the car’s new panels, which were then brought to life in their machine shop and carbon fiber facility. They extended the Javelin’s wheelbase by moving the wheels forward six and a half inches. The car’s distinctive wheel arches were moved forward and recreated in carbon fiber to pair with a new hood, front fenders, grille and front valance. Other custom details include tail lights, bumpers, trim and engine bay accessories all machined out of blocks of aluminum at the Ringbrothers facility. To finish the look of the car and highlight the body work, the exterior of “Defiant! is coated in a rich, BASF Glasurit color named “Jalop Gold.” The build was commissioned by antifreeze expert Prestone to celebrate its 90th anniversary, hence the car’s distinct yellow exterior .Under the hood is a transplanted Hellcat engine . However, the 6.2-liter supercharged V-8’s 707 horsepower didn’t suffice so Ringbrothers swapped out the stock supercharger for a 4.5-liter Whipple unit that now sees the engine deliver 1,100 thundering horses! Among the Numberous upgrades the card includes a custom 4-link rear suspension, a 12-bolt axle, side exhaust exits, and dics braking system. Enjoy the clip https://www.motorauthority.com/news/1113581_1100-horsepower-amc-javelin-by-ringbrothers-debuts-at-sema

I pulled the needel and laid it on the countertop of work bench. As I slowly round it across the top I noticed a slight wobble. Using a hammer I gave the needle several every so "LIGHT" taps in the areas that appeared to be high spots; as I rolled the needle across the countertop. The wobble disappeared. I reinserted needle and the spitting stopped. Thanks to all who responded to my post.

I too have possession of a couple of Flintstones offerings. Have on complaints about the quality. However, be aware they are not like the thin light weight castings you get in kits. The bodies are thicker and denser in weight. Attempted to use a Flintstones hood on a mainstream manufacturer body and found the hood was to thick to sit flush with the kit fenders.

Thanks for all the input. I will will order seals and a new needle. By the way are there "Teflon"replacements seals available to help fight against the lacquer thinner/paints deteriorating them. if so, do you have a lead on where I can acquire them.

Thanks for the info. of course this leads to to ask the question..is there an alternative to cleaning the gun with lacquer cleaner/thinner after using lacquer automotive paints to avoided this from happening again...or do I just stock up on seals with the expectation of seal change outs in the future. And, consider seal replacement as part of the cost of doing business.

It`s a Paasche Model VL Double Action

Over time i have been fortunate enough to have amassed three guns in my airbrush arsenal a Grex, Iwata and a Paasche. Each is assigned to various task. The Paasche, is the elder of the trio, and has been designated my clear-coat gun. It is my go-to gun when I opt to use clear-coats like Future. Of resent the gun has been acting erratic. Instead of giving me a a clean continues even flow It will spray fine then suddenly it will intermittently start "spitting" media. I`ve completely torn it down and thoroughly cleaned everything needle, nozzles etc. twice and it still continues to intermittently spit media. Just to make sure it was not the media that was causing the "spitting" I ran clean tap water through the Paasche and got the same result, so it has to be the gun. Looking for some advise to what may be causing the veteran of the team to act in this manner.

She is a true stunner...it`s one AWESOME build!!! Cannot wait to see your next project.

It is true that in the 1:1 world the big three (GM-Ford-Mopar) had the lions share of the U.S. auto market however, their products were no better than little guy AMC. The difference was the big three vested HUGE dollars into their marketing campaigns while AMC did not have the adverting dollars to hype their brand in a similar fashion. But in spite of this AMC maintained a exceedingly strong and very loyal consumer base. The perception of being an old stogy Rambler/Studebaker that was only driven by your grandparents was changed with the introduction of the `68 Javelin and AMX models. As a teen we cruised the McDonald's lots and hard core "street raced" for money $100 to $200 (this was at a time when gas was $0.35 a gallon & minimum wage was $1.60) on Friday and Saturday nights from 8:00 p.m. til 3: 00 a.m. EVERY week. I can attest to witnessing on numerous occasions an overly confident driver of one of the overly hyped big three brands sorely underestimating a light bodied, high horsepower, WICKEDLY QUICK Javelin, AMX, Rebel or Scrambler and having to pay (in cold hard cash) for a lesson in humility. AMC`s were the TRUE "FACTORY BUILT STREET SLEEPERS" of their era; in a large part due to what now-a-days is refereed to as "lack of brand recondition". But I digress, while not one of the most celebrated U.S. manufacturers of the sixties thru seventies muscle car era, the AMC brand still holds a exceedingly strong and very loyal consumer base in the 1:25 car builder world. AMC`s will be a very marketable kit because they are unique and a drastic departure from the same old G.M., Ford, Mopar subject matter! I would suggest taking a page out of Revell`s book by making the kit a "Special Edition" limited run. And yes..as my username implies I`m a dyed in the wool G.M. fanboy, BUT respect has to be given where respect is due..in my book AMC`s from the mid- sixties thru early seventies rock !

Even though I owned a `68 Javelin I have always kinda been partial to the `69 Javelin SST with it`s unique "roof" mounted spoiler as well as the `70 Javelin SST models.

I whole hearty agree with MrObsessive..that `73 javelin is one sweet bitchin` ride and I`m absolutely digging on the color!!! And, YES count me in to purchase a MINIMUM of 2 of those `73 Javelin Trans-Am racers!!!