southpier

"all of the above" of late, i am trying to use 00-90 screws, washers, & nuts where they'll be hidden in the final assembly. it depends on the assembly parts which method works best, and sometimes two or more need to be combined. making sub assemblies helps, too, in minimizing the juggling involved getting everything to look good and fit together. strategizing: i think it's one of the things i enjoy most and at the same time is most frustrating part of the hobby.

get out while there's still time, man!

http://www.doneganoptical.com/products/optivisor i've had good luck with mine (3 different magnifications). prices vary widely. if you value time & gas dollars, i don't think you can beat the big A: http://www.amazon.com/Donegan-OptiVisor-Headband-Magnifier-Magnification/dp/B0015IQC0S

how high is UP? http://www.alteredstatesmodels.com/afxgassers.htm http://public.fotki.com/drasticplasticsmcc/member_dealer_directory/drag-city-casting-/ (production may be spotty) http://www.madmodeling.com/store/ccp0-catshow/wheelstires.html http://scenesunlimited.homestead.com/WHEELS.html http://www.speedcityresin.com/ http://stores.scaledreams.com/-strse-Ross-Gibson-Engines/Categories.bok http://vcgresin.atspace.com/ and sign up here: http://vintagedragmodelsinc.proboards.com/index.cgi?action=login

just from reading the micro mark description ..... 130$ plus cutting mat 19$ (that's where they getcha!) and the light is battery powered (add 4 - D batteries = 6$ - ?) plus shipping, it doesn't seem like a great value. think about modeling for an extended (read: 15 minutes to 2 hours) having to remain in the same position to focus through the 2x magnifyer and work under the continuingly dimming battery powered light. i think for half the $$$ you could pick up an Optivisor 45$, cutting mat 15$, and plug in desk lamp 25$, and have a more versatile set up.

Floquil's selling point was their pigment size which allowed the painter to apply a "scale coat" (thickness) to the model. oddly enough, there was also a Scale Coat paint somewhere along the way. i think their doom was the volitility of vehicle - and that awful thinner. one of the seven deadly household chemicals we all grew up with under the kitchen sink - tuolene. the stuff could be used for dry cleaning fluid. if opinions are asked, my vote is to stay away even though it's been reformulated. use acrylic. (polly s, tamiya, whatever else is out there) think of the cumulative effects of this, and every other chemical you're exposed to in a lifetime. know any old body men who smoke cigarettes? Addendum: the very next thread i read http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=67218&hl= see post 'lucky' #13.

i think it should support the engine & transmission on their respective mounting points. unfortunately, that may dispell the "one size fits all" theory.

that sounds interesting ...a 1941 Dodge Panel (Resin Motor Replicas) with a Canadian flathead six cylinder. ...

that came out really nice

make a file card template first?

O ring ? maybe gloss coat it to make it more stiffer? button? cut out the center with a jeweler's saw. check the plumbing department at the hardware store? chain & superglue for the low & slow build?

you're gonna need some grey in there .....

rally clipboard, rally clipboard with timers, huh? some kit from the early 60's had a desert water bag. anyone have that?

i've had good luck here: http://drillcity.stores.yahoo.net/index.html and couldn't get by without these: http://www.micromark.com/micro-size-precision-reamers-set-of-6,6759.html

git yerse'f a jug o' black paint an' have at it: http://straightlinemodeler.org/paintblack.html

the photoshop is very nice

there's whole aisles devoted to those things?

i use mostly tamiya acrylics and the proprietary thinner. two bottles for a first & second cleaning, and then run the brush under the faucet for a minute. when the second jug gets dirty, it becomes the first dunk bottle. when the first cleaning bottle becomes dirty, i either deep six it or use it for "dirty wash" on my model railroad models. i always have a clean bottle for thinning or clean up. when the bench gets its semi-annual cleaning, both bottles are likely to get tossed, but that's mostly a psychological boost!

that looks like a great tool and one which would probably get pressed into service more and more as the user gets familiar with it. if you do make the investment, please do a little write up (and we love pictures!) on how it really works and any suggestions you might have to make it a justifiable expense. thanks

glad to see i'm not the only one that gets his 45 cents worth out of that stamp!

or put it on a piece of cardboard and roll it like dough, using progressively smaller rollers. http://ww2-model-airplanes.wfh4l.com/1854/photo-etch-and-its-application/ http://italianhorses.net/Tutorials/Photoetch/pe.htm http://www.scalemodelguide.com/construction/techniques/photo-etched-parts-models/

get a bead or piece of hardware the shape required and mount it on a handle ??? http://www.reidsupply.com/sku/PCS-1745/

sleep with his mom; that'll fix him!

very cool and not a subject i've ever seen modeled.

another source is Ozark Miniatures: http://www.ozarkminiatures.com/scripts/prodList.asp?idCategory=1229&curPage=5&sortField=sku&Msg=Product%20added%20to%20cart. someone is building a great looking model T tow truck/ wrecker complete w/ scratchbuilt winch. if you're out the skills to do this, Ozark has that covered, too: http://www.ozarkminiatures.com/scripts/prodList.asp?idCategory=1249&curPage=1&sortField=sku&Msg=Product%20added%20to%20cart. although i'm not sure the 4 banger would haul it.