we could leave for another 5 and i doubt things would get better. for the cost of monthly cable, i could buy a half dozen CD's of real car action.
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for the next one, remember the Z brace on the door goes from outside top to hingeside bottom. that way, when the door starts to sag, and they all do over time, the Z brace comes under compression and somewhat arrests the distortion.
that scale switch is a trick i like to use, too. a 1/24 flathead in a 1/25 roadster looks "beefy".
i'm also trying to figure out how to shoehorn a Revell midget flathead into a 1/48 scale Davenport locomotive. it will be used on a 1/35 scale railroad layout.
first we need to define "original". every idea is based on something which has come before it. all boils down to the filters applied by the "originator".
Great reality check. i think we sometimes discount R&D time simply because there's nothing tangible at the end of the night.
i trust you've seen this, too:
now .... back to some "scratchbuilding" because that other thread has gotten a little out of hand.
i want to make some nerf bars for a dirt tracker. someone sent me a scan of an old magazine article that captions a photo of a front end including "... nerf bars made from concrete reinforcement...".
i thought if i rolled some .050 styrene rod between 2 coarse files i could texture it enough to look convincing from a few inches away.
Q: anyone think of a better way to make re-rod?
thanks
"enthusiastic operation" - love it! somehow i missed this post and figured folks were tired of me asking inane questions. thanks for the in depth answers.
no. you see it was a little play on nouns being used as ver........ oh, just forget it.
i have to get back to scratch building my period correct roadster kit