Drake69

Nice work all around. The only thing I have trouble with is the "POW-MIA" doesn't look centered, but I don't think it's fixable at this late stage. Doesn't really matter, I like how this is shaping up. Keep going!!!

Needs more Jack Rackham.... Another sweet build!

I like the 300z's almost as much as I like the Supras. Nice build!!!

Pactra is really neither flat or glossy, it's just a lacquer paint. The glossiness of the car is from multiple dips in Future. Pactra is made for R/C bodies but can be used on models so long as the primer that is used with it (or NO primer can be used...) doesn't have a reaction to it. Duplicolor worked fine in this case.

Yup, I agree completely. For any aftermarket or MPC/AMT decals I've been recommending LDF before they go on the car. I know that some waxes like you mentioned have trouble with them, but the fragility of those types of decals make for really bad issues when trying to apply them on a car without any protection. Even when soaking the decal for 30 seconds you still have to manipulate the decal off the sheet onto a wetted area, then try and position the decal if the first attempt goes awry with moistened fingers (or other tools). Liquid Decal Film gives the decal that extra layer of protection so that it won't splinter and disintegrate from all the water contact. MIResins had asked about Keith Marks decals. Nick chimed in on how fragile they were. I mentioned LDF to protect them. Shucky talked about spraying overtop KM decals. You mentioned you don't like the film edge left behind when using LDF. Tonio mentioned Future, and I said that if the decals were trimmed properly there would be no edge. I think something got lost in translation somewhere here, as we are talking about two different things. First off, you never use LDF while the decal is already on the model... PERIOD. LDF is alcohol based and will do terribly nasty things to your paint job. LDF is only used on the decal SHEET to protect the decals themselves. Future can be used after the decals are on and drying to seal everything up.

And here is a prime example of what Future can do.... Picture of the General Lee I just did. BMF had been applied and then dipped in Future, dried for 12 hours.... First layer of Hazzardous Decals (all white backgrounds) placed on car, dried for 24 hours, then car dipped again in Future and dried 12 hours... Last layer of decals applied overtop white decals, dried another 24 hours, then dipped in Future again and dried overnight... These decals aren't going anywhere.

Of course. Once the decals have been on for at least 24 hours I'll either brush Future over them (if I have flat paint on the car and don't want a glossy look), or I'll dip the whole body in Future and allow it to dry in its box overnight. It seals the decals completely, and after everything is dry I can touch the decal and it won't slide, tear, or anything.

Future. Never had a problem, and I either brush it on or dip the whole body in it.

Last pic... I used acetate for the "death chamber" and diamond plate for the bottom panels and floorboards. I'm adding other racecar panels behind the chamber and driver's seat for reinforcement.

Thanks! Some more progress...

My 1:1 '88 Toyota Supra Turbo: And its 1:25 scale baby brother: (Engine beside it is a factory correct 7M-GTE. I wanted it in the car but it is a curbside.... bleeping Tamiya kits... )

If done right, you never see the edges tho.... ...and for the benefit of non-disintegration, I'd prefer not to waste money on extra decals unless I had a use for 'em. Not arguing, I just think it's a safer road to go by.

More pix... Only thing the engine needs now is some Detailer Black to make it look oily and used... Rollcage and "death proof" box being constructed from parts off a NASCAR raceer... Will also use sheet styrene and plastruct diamond plate for a rougher edge to the look. Door panels were reversed and small strips of styrene were used to simulate the cross-bracing on the doors and jambs (a little hard to see in the pics...).

They're definitely better than MY first builds. Great work!

I would go ape to find a place like that.

For kits out of production you HAVE to buy online. Supplies and paints I usually get at the LHS, except for "The Detailer" which I'm trying to convince them to carry. I prefer to buy local though, it's more the convenience of picking up a kit I want to build right then.

I had to hit it with a last wetcoat of flat black to tone it down, will post pics later on.

Nice! This is turning out sweet!

Thanks! Had a blast working on it.

Ahhh, my General. This was before I added the last of my details, and before my pushbar and antenna came in.

Liquid Decal Film. Use that before anything else touches the sheet. It will thicken and protect the decals with an added layer of film, allowing you to position the decal exactly where you want it without it fracturing into a million pieces. You will need to trim the decal paper as close to the decal as possible before dipping it in water, but that's not a big deal. Micro Set can be used afterwards to help set the decal in place, beforehand you would be taking an awful risk using it without LDF protecting them first.

Problem fixed!

Pix!!!! Black primer, followed by Tamiya Flat Black, followed by two wetcoats of Semi Gloss Black. After drying I'll check to see how it looks before applying any more.

There are two way to accomplish this... 1: Bare Metal Foil Gold Leaf - best looking "gold chrome" you can find. 2: The Detailer - Yellow - allows you to gauge how "gold" you want to make your chrome. http://thedetailer.net/ Since Detailer is a wash it can be brushed on until you achieve the level of gold you're looking for, whereas the gold leaf BMF is all one color.