Aaronw

Amazing work, and you never seem to get into a comfortable rut, always doing something a bit different than the last. This is much less vintage than most you have done. I have a request if it is not too late, I'd like to see the underside of the rear box, and how you fit it to the chassis. I've done a couple of box builds like that and fitting to the chassis is always a bot of a cludge for me.

This issue turning up in the mail was a nice (day late) birthday present. ?

I've gotten the impression Taig owners like to modify their lathes. Unlike the Chinese mini-lathes these modifications are not made due to poor quality control, but more that the Taig lathes offer a good platform to customize.

Technically I am a Taig owner, but I have little experience with it only having had it for about a month. I have had a Sherline lathe and mill for several years. My initial impressions, the Taig lathe is a decent machine and for some tasks, particularly at the larger end of the scale it might have some advantage over the Sherline lathe. It is slightly larger (4.5" swing vs 3.5") and is heavier. When it comes to machine tools weight is good, it helps to dampen vibrations. It is also available with a power feed for the Z axis (length) which is not available for the Sherline lathe. The saddle can also be released from the lead screw allowing rapid movement for set up, vs having to crank the lead screw the whole way. There is only one length of bed for the Taig providing 9-3/4" between centers and an overall length of 16-1/2". The standard motor on the Taig is 1/4 hp vs about 1/6 hp on the Sherline, but it is unlikely that the small belts can actually transfer the whole 1/4 hp, so the larger motor probably makes no real difference. The Sherline lathe is much more refined, the hand wheels are calibrated, where the Taig only has a calibrated handwheel on the cross slide. As an option (and a very worthwhile option) Sherline offers hand wheels with a resettable zero. The Sherline has a much more precise tail stock (the tail stock is an extra cost option on the Taig lathe, and it is operated with a non calibrated lever vs a calibrated hand wheel on the Sherline). The Sherline motor is a variable speed DC motor, so you change speeds with a turn of a dial and have a continuous range of speeds between 70-2800 rpm (with optional high speed pulley, it can run up to 10,000rpm). Taig controls speed by changing the belt position on the pullies, providing 6 speeds from 525-5200 rpm (this is very common on larger machines, but most of the other mini-lathes are variable speed). Sherline offers two lengths of bed providing 8" between centers, or 17" between centers and an overall length of 23" or 32.5". Sherline has a great deal of customer support, a huge range of accessories, good instructions and even a youtube channel with instructional videos. Taig, doesn't even have a good website, I had to go to one of the Taig resellers websites to figure out what the differences were between the different Taig lathe options / kits. Sherline offers a gear train that will allow you to cut threads. The only way you can cut threads with the Taig is using a tap and die (honestly this is usually how I do it on the Sherline as well, but I can single point higher quality threads if I need to, which the Taig can't). While it might sound like I'm putting the Taig lathe down, I'm not. I think the Taig lathe is a decent small lathe, and has some clever features. It is well made, with quality workmanship. I'm sure it can do good work and there are certain types of work that it probably excels at. If you plan to work mostly by eye, rather than exact measurements then you aren't going to benefit from some of the Sherline features. The Sherline lathe is one of the more expensive mini-lathes out there because without getting into crazy expensive instrument lathes (take a look at Levin if you have deep pockets) it is arguably the best available as long as the work will fit. It is one of the smallest lathes you can buy which can be a problem if you become interested in larger work. Having had a good look at both, if I could only have one, it would be the Sherline, hands down I don't think it is even a contest. However I do like the Taig lathe, and expect I will find some projects that it might even be preferred for. Why do I have both, well I've kind of gotten a small lathe addiction, I've found I really like tinkering with them. ? Looking at the basic package, it doesn't really compare well to any of the Sherline set ups. It has a little more tooling than the basic Sherline 4000 ($600), but less than the 4000 with the A package ($721). That basic package does not include a tailstock, which I think you will find you will eventually want. Sherline's package deals are a very good value, and will save you a lot of money over buying individually later. I wouldn't get anything less than the A package, and if there is any way you can up your budget to the C package, you will be happy you did. I know $1000+ is not a small amount of money, but this can literally be a lifetime purchase. Unless you mistreat it, you will not wear out the lathe.

Same boat. I have that DM800, I like very utilitarian trucks. That is one of those kits that have me questioning the utility of having a stash. I think it is coming around for another reissue since I bought it.

You are not alone. At least I'm not the only one who is struggling to get started. Good luck, hope you get some time soon.

Finally getting a start, just dropping this to cover April since it is the 30th but will get some progress posted in the next day or 3.

I do the same thing, I fill a bucket with hot water but not so hot that I can't comfortably leave my hand in the water.

Just because military kits won't be a priority doesn't preclude them running existing tooling or leasing them out to other manufacturers. Smer re-boxed or outright bought the molds for (never got a solid answer which) for many of the Heller 1/72 aircraft. Heller did a bunch of the very ungainly 1930s French bombers that are likely to remain the only option. I would hate to see these shoved into a dark corner or scrapped, but even if the new Heller has no interest I imagine Revell or one of the Eastern European kit makers would buy the molds for better than scrap price.

March update, sadly no progress to show although there was finally a break in the weather long enough to let things dry out so I could crawl around under the truck and sketch out the frame. This has been one of our wettest winters in years. We can use it, but it has certainly hindered my progress on any outside activities which includes necessary measurements to get going on this project.

I get that from time to time, it seems linked to the length of the post. I've found deleting a couple words will often let me post. It doesn't seem to be a too long post thing so mach as the software just not liking the specific length of the post if that makes sense (it only marginally makes sense to me as I type it).

Are you looking at mold release for resin casting? Not all resin / silicone require a mold release, so I'd check to see what is recommended by the supplier. If you are looking at something to keep the silicone from sticking when making a two part mold petroleum jelly (Vaseline) works fine. I've heard Pam cooking spray works, but never tried it.

That makes sense and cut tight to the lettering I imagine a very thin sheet doesn't show at all once painted.

I've been waiting for the rain to pass so I can get under the truck. I need to take some measurements then I can get started on the frame. It is a 2 ton truck, so has a much simpler (straighter) frame than most pickup trucks.

I think this is the only thing I've bought from them and I've had this kit at least 12 years so don't know how it compares to their current line. Luckily I could never commit to a project for it as it doesn't appear to be available anymore. It is a well cast piece, a little thick in a few spots, but not bad and very few casting flaws. Lots of detail pieces and options including many photo etch badges. It includes name badges for Fargo and Desoto in addition to Dodge.

The middle and left trucks in the first photo are 59s. 58, 59 and 60 each have different grills. The one of the left is a 4x4 W500, the center one a 2wd D500. I need to check the kit and see which grill it has. or if it offers multiple grills allowing a 58-60 to be built. It shouldn't be too hard to make the correct grill if it only has the '59 grill, '58 is the least complex of the 3 years. Are you saying you glued the PE to a strip of plastic and them glued the strip with the letters to the fender or did you just tack the letters onto the strip to hold them in place and then removed the strip from the letters once the epoxy set?

That is a very real concern particularly later on when the weather is nicer.

I have spared no expense for this build and have had reference materials delivered.

My entry is going to be a 1958 Dodge W500 fire engine used by the US Forest Service. The truck on the far left is what I'm going for, although that is a '59 which has a different grill. I will be starting with a resin cab from SELtd and most of the rest will have to be kit bashed or scratchbuilt.

There are two polys, the first used through 1958 was just just a simplified hemi modified to reduce costs when Chrysler found the V8 to be a much more popular option than expected. The later A block poly is a different engine and I understand no relation to the early hemis.

Gaute, what did you end up doing for the 318 in your truck? I find myself needing a 318 Poly as well. Right, Dodge used the Hemi-based 315 Poly in their 1957-58 trucks.

Thanks, not the answer I wanted to hear, but looks like that thread will take care of me. I actually remember this thread from a few years back, but the dumb search just gave me a bunch of links to the recent Delorean with a V8 post and any other post with V8 in the title except for this actually quite useful thread.

Do any kits have a decent to good Chrysler 318 A block (1957-67) "polyspheric" engine? If not what kits have a good 318 LA and what modifications would be needed. I think the differences are largely internal, but thinking maybe need to back date some accessories, air cleaner etc. I know the LRE has something that is not what it is supposed to be (supposed to be a 360 and is a 318 LA maybe or perhaps just a bad whatever it is?) Also is there a good candidate for doing a late 1950s 315 Hemi or poly engine?

Looks good in the Freightways scheme.

If a Class 6 truck (19,500-26,000lbs) is big enough I'm in with a 1958 Dodge W500. SE Ltd (I think) resin cab and lots of scratchbuilding / kit bashing. It might be a little ambitious of a project for only 6 months but I've got a 1-1 available for reference and about a month to plan it out before we start.