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Everything posted by Brutalform
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65 Ford Galaxie R Code or XL...need advice.
Brutalform replied to Brutalform's topic in WIP: Model Cars
I suppose this will become an XL, with all the performance goodies. Those wheels wouldn’t be found on an XL would they? Wasn’t the XL the package with lots of fancy trim? -
65 Ford Galaxie R Code or XL...need advice.
Brutalform replied to Brutalform's topic in WIP: Model Cars
Started drilling out the headlights so they can sit below the trim rings like they should on the 1:1 car. Now to remove the rest of the material with a micro file. -
65 Ford Galaxie R Code or XL...need advice.
Brutalform replied to Brutalform's topic in WIP: Model Cars
Started to remove the factory cast in exhaust, and replace the trunk area with sheet styrene where the exhaust pipes exited. Ground off the master cylinder, and filling the notches in the firewall. -
65 Ford Galaxie R Code or XL...need advice.
Brutalform replied to Brutalform's topic in WIP: Model Cars
I scrapped the kit supplied engine, and decided to go with the Starliner engine instead for the 427 for obvious reasons. Decided to use a deep oil pan as well. Here are some mock ups with Elmers glue to make sure the fuel system, carbs, intake manifold, and distributor all clear other components. It will use the Thunderbolt valve covers as well. -
Ok, someone might want to throw some advice this way. Here it goes. When I started this car over a year and a half ago, I was thinking I was building an R Code Galaxie. Then after more recent research, I realized, I shouldn’t have scooped the hood, and I should have removed the rear quarter panel emblems. Am I correct so far? Also would I need a bench seat, as compared to the buckets and console? I really like the look of the dog dish hub caps, but I’m pretty sure you wouldn’t find these on an XL. So here I am with a mis matched Galaxie. I’d really hate to stripping the body, as it’s all painted, cleared, AND polished. I’ll need the scoop because I’m using a T Bolt intake and Fireball Holleys. The interior is not a problem, as it’s not started, and the scoop, well anyone could add a scoop to their car. But those darn rear quarter emblems are my concern. Any knowledge Ford guys could possibly help with advice?
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Moebius/Model king 65' Plymouth AWB box art
Brutalform replied to Mr mopar's topic in Car Kit News & Reviews
Glad to hear!! Maybe I’ll get my info from Model Car Mountain too. -
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Glad to see you are back. Nice progress on the build.
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Yea, I have to definitely do that! It gets annoying going through a stack of decals just to find the one I need. Do you keep them in any particular order? It would be a huge improvement for me just to keep all the Mopar, Ford, GM, and race stuff separated.
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I built this car a while back, that had a lot of mistakes. The engine was painted red, the foiling was terrible, the under carriage was all flat black, and the decals were incorrectly placed, and applied over emblems. Now trying to decide if the original build will be stripped down, and go in the purple pond, or just keep it to remind me how much we as modelers learn something new with every build? The next one will be Jake Kings Atwater Ford car. But not right yet, as I promised myself I won’t start another build until I finish the cars I have going on now.
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Model Master Paints and MegaHobby
Brutalform replied to ssroczyn's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
And the gun metal is nice too. The only one I hardly ever use is brass. Unless of course I’m adding it to an old radiator top. -
This is an excellent idea.
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I store mine in a tupper ware type container. Inside there are individual envelopes, some made of paper, and some made of wax paper, and some plastic baggies. Also, I try to avoid allowing the decal surfaces rub each other. Storing them back to back helps. Ive used the Micro film on really old decals, and it kept them together so they could be applied. In my opinion, the stuff works. I recently had the same issues with some older Thunderbolt decals, not wanting to come off the backing, unless it soaked for a while. Try using hotter water to dip them in. This worked for me.
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I lost many pictures on photobucket, but I had them all backed up on my PC, and also on an external hard drive, along with my music. Oh well...stuff happens. Being upset, at least in my eyes, is like winning the lottery, and complaining about paying the taxes.
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Thanks Jim. When I build the Hemi version of this kit, I’m going to definitely do what you did to the tail lights on your build.
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Thanks everyone for the positive replies.
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Model Master Paints and MegaHobby
Brutalform replied to ssroczyn's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
I use them all, but use the aluminum plate, and magnesium the most. I brush them on when needed as I don’t have an airbrush. I recently ordered a jar of aluminum plate from my LHS, and it did take about two weeks to arrive, and he said HE heard it might be be discontinued because of the long wait, but it did arrive. I also read somewhere as well. -
Model Master Paints and MegaHobby
Brutalform replied to ssroczyn's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
I don’t know how true it is, but I heard MM Metalizers are going to be discontinued. Maybe they are phasing out now? Not 100% sure though, I hear lots of things. -
Painting interior parts to look like cloth?
Brutalform replied to crowe-t's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
I believe Testors has a cloth looking spray. Not sure of the available colors though. -
I love all Thunderbolts.
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I did build one, about ten years ago, but it looks pretty bad. I had decals wrinkled, and applied over emblems, the foil is terrible, and the engine is the wrong color. So I decided to build another, more correct version. I should have some pics by tomorrow.
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I plan on adding the decals to the Platt car later tonight.
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Thanks. I built that M/T car, but I’d like to redo the fuel lines and the big aluminum shock tower support bracket under the hood. You should build it. You’ll have to cut out the towers, but it’s not hard.