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crowe-t

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Everything posted by crowe-t

  1. Thanks guys for the advice. However I intend to use other lacquers in the future and not just decant paint from spray cans. Can someone recommend a needle size for lacquer? Is .35 mm or .50 mm big enough or should I go to another airbrush with a larger needle size?
  2. I have an Iwata Eclipse HP-CS and recently decanted Testors MM Custom Lacquer System paint and shot it with the airbrush. It seemed to leave a grainy surface. The Iwata HP-CS has a .35 mm needle but can be changed to a .50 mm needle. Maybe the needle is too small. Does lacquer require a larger needle size? if so what's a good needle size and/or airbrush for spraying lacquer? I do like the Iwata airbrushes.
  3. I hope they come back soon. I could use a few parts and from what I've heard their stuff is very high quality.
  4. Awesome job on this Terry! The paint is beautiful.
  5. Is Gunze Mr. Color Spray(rattle can) paint any good? Does it require a gloss clear? I don't think it does but I thought I'd ask.
  6. I'm looking for some information on how the late '60's - early '70's Cadillac Chassis' were painted. Did they have body color overspray over primer? Were the frame rails painted black? If anyone has pictures that would be great.
  7. Nice work on the chassis!
  8. Randy, Excellent job on the '68 restoration! BTW, did it start out as a dealer promo or is it a kit? It looks like it doesn't have an engine so I thought it might have originally been a promo. Mike.
  9. Is it not considered a good thing to use a dealer promo as a kit? To re-paint or add details.
  10. Thanks guys for all the good ideas. Mike, you did a beautiful job on this one. I love the blue!
  11. Let's see some pictures Jim!
  12. I wasn't thinking I would have to pin such a small part. Do you think the epoxy will hold enough without using a pin?
  13. The problem is the body is already painted.
  14. Someone mentioned I should drill a pin hole in the part itself and in the car body and use a brass rod as a pin and then use Epoxy. However I had tried that and the chrome came off easily. Will the epoxy be enough to hold the door handles in place without having to risk drilling a hold in such a small part?
  15. What type of glue/technique works for attaching the plastic chrome plated door handles and windshield wipers on a car body that's been painted. For example on the Revell 1969 Charger kit.
  16. K&S sells .020" diameter music wire that's about the same gauge as a guitar "G" string. I think "G" string is about .024". The K&S music wire should work.
  17. Is music wire or guitar strings somewhat stiff in a short length, say about 2 inches?
  18. Does anyone have an idea of what type of wire to use to make a 1/25 scale CB antenna?
  19. In the past I've used Testors MM Clear Acryl(now re-named acrylic) for my top coat. I usually used the Semi-Gloss and Flat clear but noticed it had a very slight 'yellow' tint when the coats build up. I then switched to Polly Scale Acrylic clear which was crystal clear. When Testors discontinued the Polly Scale line I switched to Testors Create FX acrylic clear which seems to be the Polly Scale re-branded. It's also crystal clear. Has the Testors MM Acryl(acrylic) clears gotten better? It's been a while since I used them and I didn't like the slight yellow tint.
  20. Hi, Does anyone know of a hobby paint(Testors, Tamiya...) alternative to Street Hemi Orange engine paint? I need to paint a Chrysler 440 and would rather use a hobby paint(preferably acrylic) to paint the block. Is Testors Model Master International Orange a good match?
  21. Thanks Bill and thanks for posting the Illustration of the Ford front axle. I saved it to my research folder. I agree it looks like a unitized body. The chassis rails that run the length look to be straight with no bends up or down. I'm still trying to find more pictures of the chassis but I'm starting to get a good idea of how it should look. Right now the only components of the AMT Scout I'll need are the engine and rear end housing. As far as which exact engine(i.e. - 4 cylinder, 6 cylinder, 8 cylinder...) it might not really matter too much. I've seen pictures with all types and both standard and automatic transmissions. The one in the sales brochure shown above has a standard transmission but that isn't the model year I'll be building. It's the closest brochure and has the same basic body shape. I'm looking forward to seeing the sales brochure when it arrives. I'm starting to like this truck a lot now.
  22. Bill, I've been searching for pictures of the chassis and so far came up with these from a 1966 Metro Mite. The chassis doen't look very different from the Scout except it's flatter and seems to follow the flat floor. The Scout chassis' frame rails curve up and down with the floor.
  23. I have to pick up an AMT Scout kit and see how the chassis fits. However in this picture from the sales brochure the floor looks flat from behind the front doors back and even in the middle area in the cab. I'm sure the wheel base is longer in the Metro Mite. I'll most likely have to scratch build the chassis from the doors back and incorporate the front of the Scout chassis. The frame rails and floor should be mostly flat. Here is a picture from the sales brochure showing the inside. Here is a picture of a Kurbmaster Step Van kit from Motor City Resin Casters that shows the type of chassis I'll need. This build needs a flat truck/van chassis. The funny thing is the Kurbmaster Step Van almost looks like what I need to build but looks to be a much larger truck. Depending on the width, I'm thinking maybe the chassis from the AMT Phantom Ford Econoline might be a better choice to start with. However the motor wouldn't be accurate. What do you guys think?
  24. I can probably use the front part of the chassis and scratch build from the front doors back.
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