62rebel

i did a couple of these as convertibles during the '90's reissue; they were a bear and only one of them turned out well enough to keep; the other went into donor-kit-limbo. i THINK i posted some pics long way back of the good one. i have always liked this kit and the real car; the lines are perfect, even though the chassis design was getting old already. the Avanti had to plug along with it ten years later.

one thing: NEVER refer to the leftover bits and pieces they sell you as "scrap". in the trade, it is called "cutoffs", and knowing that, may make the difference between buying it for full value or possibly being given a few pieces too small to bill out cost-effectively. some shops call it "drop-off".

anyone else get queasy trying to read the disclaimers, etc on the bottom of the ad? man..... at least it wasn't in comic sans.

posting an image might violate trademark law. post a hint about where the original image might be found.

this is Auto ID, right? so.... the point is, what car is that? Harry can't help the image source looking like a model. that might be the sole image on the internet of ... whatever it is.

check the box; not a '29.

Jurgen, your instructional was well presented and informative, even though i might never use the info, it is good to have seen it.

some of these cars remind me of a broken pencil. pointless.

will Future seal it for painting?

i think they'd look even better with wheels in scale. not suggesting spokes made from thinned toothpicks, but more in scale or proportion with the model.

methyl ethyl ketone. you can buy it by the quart at Lowes, Home Depot, etc. be very careful with it. for that matter, be very careful of the liquid plastic the sprues make when melted. the fumes are very bad. i keep a small bottle of MEK on the bench and refill it as necessary from the quart can. i once sent a box full of sprues back to AMT... it must have weighed three pounds. no, they didn't send me a kit in return. that was back in 1975 or so.

Restomod is a combination of "restored" and "modified"; visually kept to a virtually showroom-stock appearance but with mechanical upgrades for power, safety, reliability, etc. not "hot rodding" per se, but keeping a vehicle viable for highway use in the modern era. a "restoration" in literal terms is returning a vehicle to AS-NEW for it's model year... no upgrades at all.

these are curbsides, no engines unless you add them. nice lines, not often to see a custom Falcon done well.

good thing there's not many Jag kits out there and the ones that are, are incredibly difficult.... or else there'd be a thread devoted to defiling the perfect form in styrene.

curiosity is getting the better of me. this kit is the ONLY 1966 Ford Galaxie 500 7Litre produced. the 7Litre (Ford 428) is virtually indistinguishable from any other FE engine other than by expert examination. the chassis plate from this kit can be exchanged with the one from the 1965 easily to obtain better detail underneath. outwardly, the 7Litre is marked only by badging and the use of the upmarket diecast grille instead of the stamped aluminum unit on lesser cars. this kit has the diecast grille, the correct console, the correct outside badging, and a very good representation of the FE engine as discussed. as a matter of fact, i had to remove badging, fabricate a grille, replace the bucket seats and console, and swap an automatic trans into one of these to more accurately replicate one of my 1:1 personal cars from the early '90's. is the fact that it's an AMT repop THAT damaging?

i've got nothing from my 1978 building days except tools and some deep thumb scars. that is a moment in time, IMHO, and you're right in not molesting it.

most impressive! out-freaking-standing, actually.

would a forest green 1968 Road Runner be embarassing to drive? sure it would. especially when it stalled repeatedly in traffic, as MINE did. how about a beauty of a 1969 Coronet 500 2dr hardtop that needed a tow from a semi the last hundred miles into Orlando? that car was so stock it still had the window sticker in the glove box. then there's the '67 Coronet 500 4dr i drove to Great Lakes NTC with a busted wheel cylinder, no heater, in the dead of winter 1987..... cold blooded beast refused to start without ether. funny how those first two would probably make a great down payment on a house now. here's the thing; if it runs and gets you from A to B safely, what's there to be embarassed about? are we still in middle school comparing lunch boxes?

so we might see more of the ex-MPC Grand National kits reissued again?

going with "real" for many reasons and if this turns out to be a model i'll simply blame it on my eyes.

what Harry showed was typical of the actual car to some extent and accepted as accurate for the model/year of that car. if you really want to see some headache-inducing distortion, look at a '59-'60 Mercury windshield. by the way, that's a beauty of a build there.

beautiful job; well done! it's a shame that we lost station wagons to the SUV machine.

valley custom / ron dunn car wasn't chopped.

the sixties-style factory pump has the built-in fuel filter housing at the bottom which almost NO aftermarket mechanical pump has. the Revell kit small-block Ford is intended to be depicted as a fuel injected engine, no mechanical fuel pump supplied. since the aftermarket pumps almost all look alike outwardly, any mechanical pump in the proper size with the mounting cut made square and attached in the correct area would look absolutely fine. the combination "fuel pump/oil filler pipe" that AMT provided in many of their small-block Ford engines is simply not correct as supplied. the fuel pump should be directly forward of the oil filter on a small block Ford. another detail possible right there is to add the oil pressure feed that runs close by the fuel pump, usually on a short pipe nipple. the RockAuto website can provide nice detail pictures to work from.

not sure why, but i picked up a reissue Diamond Reo tractor kit on clearance. haven't done a big rig in years......