Scale-Master

Another model I built about the same time as the Trans Am, (mid 90’s), and also out of the box. Not something that is seen every day... Also on the fragile side so it does not get taken out very often and has never been shared online before, but since I am cleaning the cases... The tires on this one are holding up better than the T/A, but it weighs a lot less too.

A friend requested I post this for another mutual friend. It is an older build of the Otaki ’72 Trans Am. Since I had it out of the showcase while doing my annual cleaning, I decided to take a few pictures. I built it out of the box, and I made all the decals in order to change it from the Fire-Chicken on the hood scheme to the earlier classic white and blue, as well as to add some details. This kit seems to be desirable to many, but the reality is it has several accuracy/proportion issues. Plus it was engineered to be a motorized toy/model. This kit did not have the motor stuff, but the overall design suffers from that toy mentality. But it does go well with my stock Red ’67 Corvette and Orange ’69 Camaro. Looks like the carpet is getting a bit ratty, but then with tires rotting out from sitting since ’94, what can you expect? Good thing I dated that license tag to remind me…

I second the tape method described by Donn. Using a solvent will be more work and might create a mess. It is possible, depending on the process used to print the decals, that it would be an exersize in futility as not all decals respond to solvents...

Unfortunately what you describe is somewhat common with that era of decals that came in those kits. And as if what you are experiencing isn't enough, they are printed with a thick U.V. protectant clear that is impervious to decal solvents. When I use them, I let them soak long enough to be able to brush away, (with a soft paint brush), all the excess glue before applying them. It is the glue that is causing the discoloration. If it seems it needs additional adhesive, thinned down (with water) white glue can be used. Be sure to wipe it down with a damp cloth once the decal has set, but before the glue becomes fully cured. Heat can help make them conform a little bit, careful use of a hairdryer works for me.

Not if you are using fresh CA. And go easy on the zip-kicker (accelerant). Old CA will/can fog.

Gregg, I used cyano-acrylate to cement the rear tires I cut apart, and reassembled, (in this case widened, but the same procedure can be used for narrowing them). It is stable, sandable and paintable, if needed. I haven't painted these... yet... But I will to hide the minor line where the seam is, you can see it on slick laying flat.

I don't see why you need to strip it to fix those issues. I certainly wouldn't go that route. Sand out the seams and hood problems and blend in the color. In this case lacquer is your friend. Especially if you are going to clear coat it.

It is one of a series of Alfa Romeos. Here's a shot of the real one:

This Hot Wheels has been floating around my work bench since it first came out a few years ago. Decided to do something with it the other night with a little left over paint I had in the airbrush for the Camaro…

The C6 is a different car than the C5. Just get a C5 kit. (1997-2004) I don't know that it can be converted, but it would most certainly not be worth the effort.

I use regular lacquer thinner to thin it, but it does take a bit more effort/action to get it to mix thoroughly. I also thin it a bit more than the standard enamels to eliminate the cob webbing that it tends to do when sprayed too thick or at too high of air pressure. Don't try to get full coverage/density in one coat. It helps to apply it in a couple/few light coats with 15-20 minutes between them.

That Surf Crate dragster is pretty cool...

I can't count how many people I have met that claim to have the ONLY one of such and such. They were lucky enough to recognize what they had and how extremely rare it is (and parlayed the supposed rareness into exceptionally high value). One that comes to mind is a one of a kind "German Corvette" that comes to the local shows here. The story is "priceless". And this photo makes it look far cleaner than seeing it in person. How many things can you see that are "off" for a factory Corvette? Check out those speakers! Side pipes, Rally Wheels...

It would about as likely as opting for an LT1 to replace a LT5 in a ZR1.

Well the math works; I have two Camaro's to each Corvette... Oh, we're talking models. Well look at what people want to drive in the real world, and you can see what kit companies will make. Even modelers who drive mundane real cars (other than wanting a replica of what they drive) like to build popular (perfomance) cars, more so than an Altima, Elantra or Camry. That is why there are more Challenger and Camaro models than basic economy cars and even luxury cars. They simply appeal to a wider audience. It is also why the higher end versions of those cars are what are usually represented in model form. And add to that the vicarious thrill of building an exotic car that many will never have the chance to own a real life counterpart. That being said, I for one would like a '68 Olds Vista Cruiser kit... (Only so I could build a replica of mine.)

That is a fun era to model within. I really like what you have done with the hood scoop, and I am a sucker for Minilites...

Looks like a Mad Spy.

While I use lacquer thinner in most of my enamels, (and even some acrylics), I found out the Tamiya enamels do not work well at all with it. Mineral spirits is a must for them.

You know the loops in the seatbelt buckles are to thread the belts through. If it is not too late to remove them and reinstall them correctly it will make a big improvement to them.

That is looking wicked! Can't wait to see what it grows into.

Very unforgiving color. But you seem to have won this round. Very nice, very clean!

I'm glad to see you back with this one too.

Do we need a sub-category for all the old '69 Camaro's getting "back on the road" to completion?

Not that I have built too many of them out-of-the-box, but I am partial to the Tamiya Caterhams. Big surprise, no? The R-M '69 Camaro's (both scales) rank up there pretty high too.

Finally (!), I was able to fix the paint that was not drying correctly. I sanded out the cracked areas on the nose section and repainted it. You can see it was being problematic for a while and that I had tried to repaint it before by the “tree rings”. Here is how nasty it was looking while being sanded out and reworked… As for the main red section of the body, I sanded out part of it and found that TS-36 can be successfully blended into finished areas of the same paint, so I only had to paint part of that big area. I applied the paint very, very slowly this time only by airbrush over an 8 hour period, lightly building it up and paying close attention to the blend lines. Once it proves to me that it is stable, I’ll move onto decals and clear coat…